Brakes not working?

to make a long story short my brakes completely blew out and had to be towed from an hour away.. so I got the jeep and found two of the brake lines just burst from being rusty, you could see it squirting out the pin holes.

I replaced the line going to the pass side and the one going to the rear brakes. new line all the way to the brakes. I bleed the lines so there's no air and the pedal will not pump up. it's very soft and you just hear air blowing out when you push the pedal...

What else could it be? Vin# 1J4FJ68S0WL160056

How do I diagnose/fix?

Thx for any help guys...

sounds like air got into the master, and maybe the prop valve.
if you have a pressure bleeder you can make short work of it.

otherwise, take the master off and bench bleed it, then repeat the process from square one. gravity bleed all 4 corners, and finish by pedal bleeding all 4 corners. Should have a solid pedal afterwards/

92DripCherokee said:

sounds like air got into the master, and maybe the prop valve.
if you have a pressure bleeder you can make short work of it.

otherwise, take the master off and bench bleed it, then repeat the process from square one. gravity bleed all 4 corners, and finish by pedal bleeding all 4 corners. Should have a solid pedal afterwards/

Click to expand...

Thx... I have not done that before is there some protocol I can follow to make sure I do it correctly?

Thx again

Theres a special procedure for bleeding the prop valve, have to pull off a rubber cover, and poke something or other. I've not had to do that one, but if there air in there it can create a bubble that just wont pump out by pumping alone.

for bench bleeding, you should buy a kit with an assortment of fittings. motormite has a cheapie, worked ok for me. You just feed the lines back into the resevoir and pump slowly until the bubbles stop expelling.
When bench bleeding, the master cyl has to be dead level, usually clamped in a vise. You need a clean rod to push with (preferabbly wood or brass). because that rod is going into the bore, and scratching it would ruin the cone seals and cause an MC failure eventually.

Do a search here for system bleeding, everyone has their own favorite method. I'm "speed bleeder" fanatic.