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Jeep stalls out and DIES HELP ME

H

hondata79

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Washougal WA
Ok so when the jeeps cold it starts up fine.
Then after it warms up it will stall out when im driving
around town then its a pain to start.

If im on the freeway its fine but in town it dies ?

89 4.0 renix automatic

Things im thinking (dont laugh)
TPS
something with a tranny sensor ? ? ? im not familure with auto's, it does shift good though.
Distributor
fuel pump but i believe thats pretty new

Any info would be great... Im mechanicly enclined but im a honda guy

I DID SEARCH FIRST BEFORE I ASKED
 
oh ya i broke the heater core valve because there CRAP i was in
a pinch so i just looped one hose back into the motor... no heater
but its summer.

I dont think thats a issue is it ? fans on a switch and never gets hot.
 
I dont know about jeeps but in some other cars i have worked on i have seen where heater control valves actually do cause some problems with running as some have routes to and from the manifold that causes sensors to react with the heat and give gas etc. I believe the toyota sr5 was like that anyway perhaps someone else could tell you more about it. perhaps i am completely off in the jeep. anyway i just replaced a valve about a month ago. i was only $20 or so from autozone.

Sean
 
Before you start replacing parts, clean the connectors for the Oxygen sensor and CPS (crank position sensor). Use brake parts cleaner, let dry and apply some dielectric grease. These sensors have about a 1 ft. pigtail and then a snap together connector. These are the connectors to clean. They're located on driver side near exhaust downpipe.

There are four square relays in a row on the passenger side inner fender near the distributor. Counting from the firewall toward the front of the jeep 1-2-3-4 Number 3 is the fuel pump relay and number 4 is the Oxy sensor heater relay. Swap these two with the inner two and see if it makes a difference.

There are a lot of other things to look at since this seems to be a heat problem such as the MAT sensor and coolant sensor, but I don't know if they will cause this type of problem. DO A SEARCH and see if you can find something on them. There are a lot of good folks on here better able to diagnose this than me. Good luck!
 
Yes i did the basics ha ha

Everything is good at idle sound great... 15 minutes later starts dying unless
your on the freeway 55-60 its all good.


I gave this jeep to a mother of 3 and its all shes got so i really want to fix it !

Keep the info coming THANKS
 
hondata79 said:
Yes i did the basics ha ha

Everything is good at idle sound great... 15 minutes later starts dying unless
your on the freeway 55-60 its all good.


I gave this jeep to a mother of 3 and its all shes got so i really want to fix it !

Keep the info coming THANKS
Click to expand...

:shocked: Now it sounds engine speed related and that could be the throttle postion sensor going bad. I know you said it was replaced, but it could still be going bad. The only other thing I know of is the IAC which is an little electric motor mounted on the side of the throttle body that adjusts to let air into the intake. This thing might be stuck and needs cleaning. If cleaning doesn't help you have to replace some parts, those first two I mentioned are high on the list.
 
try balist resistor above the factory airbox
 
You can totally skip the ballast resistor actually, jump the two terminals together.

Also, pull the dist cap and have a look see.

CPS (Crank position sensor, located on transmission bellhousing roughly at 11o clock position) can also fail in a variety of ways-I would replace it just as a piece of mind.
 
sounds like CPS to me. those are the symptoms i had when mine went out.
 
Okay guys...

I dialed in the tps its GOOD

I checked CPS conections and cleaned them. Also upluged it why running it
died of course, Started up fine again when i pluged it back in.
Drove it around the block and it died, It doesent jerk or shake it
just shuts off.

The motor revs well at idle but has a small stutter at low rpm.
So i took off the distributor cap, It looked ok to the eye i
used my screw driver and cleaned the point.
Put the cap on and IT WONT START AT ALL ? ? ?

Now what ?
 
Last edited:
hondata79 said:
Okay guys...

I dialed in the tps its GOOD

I checked CPS conections and cleaned them. Also upluged it why running it
died of course, Started up fine again when i pluged it back in.
Drove it around the block and it died, It doesent jerk or shake it
just shuts off.

The motor revs well at idle but has a small stutter at low rpm.
So i took off the distributor cap, It looked ok to the eye i
used my screw driver and cleaned the point.
Put the cap on and IT WONT START AT ALL ? ? ?

Now what ?
Click to expand...

I think you answered your own question.
 
hondata79 said:
Okay guys...

I dialed in the tps its GOOD

I checked CPS conections and cleaned them. Also upluged it why running it
died of course, Started up fine again when i pluged it back in.
Drove it around the block and it died, It doesent jerk or shake it
just shuts off.


Now what ?
Click to expand...

You can test the CPS. Use your volt/ohm meter to check resistance. Unplug CPS to test--should be 200 ohms plus or minus 75. Then check the signal strength. Again with the CPS unplugged crank the engine to do this. Set meter on A/C and you should get .5 to .6 volts signal as you crank. If its less its time to get a new CPS. Try not to kill yourself if you do this.
 
hondata79 said:
Cap and rotor ?
Click to expand...

I would try the cap and rotor first, much easier to replace. Also check under the hood, engine running when it is dark outside and look for any HV arcing on the Spark plug wires.

If those don't fix it then It sounds like it might be the CPS.

IF it only dies at idle, or during deceleration, another possibilty is the IAC in the throttle body might be sticking.
 
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