Lift Installation...

I am getting my first lift in a week or so and I am gonna attempt to put it on myself. It is probably gonna be a disaster but I am gonna try to do it right the first time (har har). Any tips for the project? It is an RE 3.5" SuperFlex.

Anything that looks like it supposed to go somewhere it probably does go there..........HAHA youll do just fine,it not rocket science!!!:jester:

Start spraying every nut and bolt with PB blaster now. It will make life a lot easier.

A bit off topic here but what would cause my rear left leaf spring to bend the opposite way? Is it just sagging alot or is there something wrong?

EvanH said:

A bit off topic here but what would cause my rear left leaf spring to bend the opposite way? Is it just sagging alot or is there something wrong?

Click to expand...

Well my friend it what they call saggy springs its one of those things you really dont have control over .......how do I know? I have the same problem and yes im going to the junk yard today to get a set of s-10 leafs to do a bastard pack.

If you have an air compressor and power tools make sure you use them, it'll save you hours. If not, then find a way to get ahold of some. Rent them, borrow them, or whatever. Rusty bolts that take you 20 minutes to do with a wrench will come off in about 10 seconds. You can do it without it (I did it) but I really wish I had power tools. But I did have a really big super strong friend, so that worked too.

And x2 on lots of PB blaster all over every bolt.

Chris

I did the RE 3.5" superflex install a couple weeks ago. Here's just a few things that worked for me or come to mind that i wish i'd done differently. It's definately a do-able job if you're mechanically inclined and aren't worried to take stuff apart.

Pretty much count on 2-3 days for the work. I spent several hours on bolts that didn't want to come free...it was a royal PITA. I did a lot of work after hours...which meant if there was a snag and i needed a tool, i'd have to wait till the following morning to get it and start back up.

They're not exaggerating with the PB blaster....i wish i'd gotten on it a few days earlier.

I got a 4X6 cut down to use as blocks to support the rear axle (it was too low to use jack stands). I was the only one doing the work...i didn't have the benefit of an extra set of hands for 99.9% of the project.

I've got an electric impact wrench...it was pretty handy. I'd caution against using this on too many bolts...many were very rusty. I used a breaker bar on most bolts to avoid snapping them.

Count on having to use a drill. I needed one to enlarge the hole for the spring perch (1/16" if if i remember correctly) and to install the front bump stops.

The main thing that held me up was a pressed in bolt for the sway bar endlinks..no amount of smashing with a hammer is going to get it out. I used a pitman arm puller to get it out. This was the only item i had to stop and post a question on to figure out during the install.

John

In regards to the swaybar endlink issue, here's the writeup I followed. A pain in the ass, but pretty much the only way to do it.

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/swaybar_endlinks.htm

Pitman arm puller, impact wrench, sawzall or grinder, and patience.

Chris

That would have been even easier if i'd thought to cut the bolt down. Good write up.

ckh550 said:

Pitman arm puller, wrench, sawzall or grinder, and patience.

Chris

Click to expand...

thats the way i did mine. it was late at night so i couldnt use the impact wrench. oh well.

if you dont have a impact wrench to help you get a cheater bar

x3 on the pb blaster spray every day for a week ahead of time.

get a case ( or 6 ) of beer, some pizza and a friend or 2. Having someone else there to help is the best thing you can have.

Spray everything with PB

Do not remove both lower arms at the same time

Get air tools if you can

Thanks alot for the tips.

Evan: I'm two days into my three day install of a RE 6030. A couple of things to add to the tips above. A few places I forgot to PB Blast: The hard line connections for the rear brake line extension (what a PITA; flare nut wrenches work a whole lot better for brake lines than conventional); the inside nut for the lower bolt of the track bar (I bought an adjustable track bar replacement); the chassis bolts of the rear leaf spring shackles (I zapped the spring end, but forgot the chassis end). If you are replacing the steeering damper, you'll need to use a similar procedure for the torx bolt removal described above. It also is pressed in. The upper chassis connection is also a PITA. If you are not using shims, and are buying the leaf packs, be SURE to drill out the spring pads on the axle to 5/8". In the rear, I found that disconnecting the drive shaft at the pinion end made aligning the rear axle with the new springs a whole lot easier. When tightening the U-bolts in the rear, put tension on the bolts evenly, rather than cranking down one bolt at a time. I tightened them all up, then backed off one at a time to add thread locker. Seemed to work OK. I bought RE shocks, and pushing the upper bar pins into the rear shocks was a trial. I wound up using a clamp and two 3/4" pipe unions end to end to provide clearance for the bar pins as I pressed them through. PM me if you run into problems. The RE kit is a good one, but you WILL be challenged. Best of luck.