Regearing vs 8.8 Swap

I'm wondering if it would be cheaper in the long run to swap in an 8.8 w/ 4.10s than it would be to regear the 8.25. 8.8's around here are everywhere so I'm estimating I could pick one up for around 200-250, assuming I could find one with 4.10's. I don't have the skills or tools though to weld on new spring perches or install it. I'm guessing labor on that would be about 2-3 hours at 60-80 an hour. That puts me at 400-500 for the 8.8 swap vs I'm guessing the same to regear the 8.25 with parts and labor. I'm just guesstimating on this so any input would be helpful.

8.8 hands down. very easy swap. what gears are you running in your front (d30 i assume)??

This is the issue I came to when I decided to regear.

I ended up going with the 8.8 swap. I paid a little over $200 for the 8.8, ~$100 for the ruffstuffspecialties swap kit(which could be pieced together/improvised for alot cheaper), about $20 on paint and grinding wheels, $15 on diff fluid. Aside from the unnecessary ruffstuff diff cover, the most expensive part was buying new brake parts for it(all new lines, 1 new caliper, new pads, and turned rotors).

Overall, it costed me more to buy all of the stuff to regear the front axle(gears, fluid, rebuild kit, etc) than for the whole rear end swap.

Go with the 8.8, especially if you have the 27 spline 8.25 and are still running drum brakes.

The 8.8's disc brakes are reason enough for me. The fact the the axle is stronger than an 8.25 is just a bonus.

-----Matt-----

IXNAYXJ said:

The 8.8's disc brakes are reason enough for me. The fact the the axle is stronger than an 8.25 is just a bonus.

-----Matt-----

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Agreed, most who get that axle just want it as a cheap way to get 4.10 gears, but if you are running those gears you really cant do much above 33" tires if you have an auto. I have a manual and will be setting it up on 35s on that axle, my 8.25/29spl could handle it but id want to eventually put a locker in it so this way at least thats covered.

If you do all the prep. work your self (such as cut the old spring perches off, grind the area where the new perches go, and prep the tubes to be welded to the center section), it should not cost that much to get it welded. If i where you i would prep the axle, locate the spring perches in there new location clamp them in place, load the axle on a trailer and take it to a good welder. I don't know if this is a option for you but i would see if your local community college has a welding program. They will probably weld it for free. I teach welding at a community college and we do stuff like that all the time for free. Just make sure that the instructor of the class is involved.

That's an excellent idea because I definitely don't have the tools to do the job. Do I really need to weld the center section though because this is a 90% daily driver...

One other option you could look at that is pretty cheap is to find a 8.25 out of a 97-up 4cyl cherokee. These have the 29spline axles and come factory with 4.10 gears. I bought one for $200 from a junkyard and sold my 27spline for $75. So for $125 I had both bigger axles and the gears I wanted. Also, it is a direct bolt on. Just another option if you don't plan on going over 33's.

Jester99 said:

That's an excellent idea because I definitely don't have the tools to do the job. Do I really need to weld the center section though because this is a 90% daily driver...

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If the axle is already sitting on the ground in front of a welder why not. The only tool you might have to buy is a grinder. Harbor Freight sells them for like 20.00 bucks.