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Rear Main Seal Help!

E

ebjones7

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
I am in the middle of trying to replace my rear main seal. I have the battery disconnected, the starter out, and all the oil pain bolts out. I also have the jeep up on jack stands by the frame to help the axle droop. I have read a few threads about jacking the axle up enough to the point where the oil pan will slide out. It has been two days of me trying to figure out how to remove the oil pan. Any tips or special things I might need to know to get the oil pan out.

Thanks A lot

Elliott
 
I have the 3" Rustys full pack kit.

Do I have to remove the oil pump inside the oil pan to get it out? Anything that would be easy to remove that would help me get it out?
 
If no lift I remember reading in one of the threads here the person removed there oil pump to be able to get the pan out. You could also unbolt the shocks to let you hang lower as most shocks I've seen stop you befor you are actually at full drup. I would try the shocks befor unbolting the pump though.
 
try disconnecting the swaybar too.
 
Thanks a lot for the info!!!

I am gunna go run out side to see if I can get it to drop lower with the shocks off!

Ill let you all know what happens.
 
94xj6.5 said:
how much lift do you have? with little or no lift i dont think you can get the oilpan out without lifting the motor.
mike
Click to expand...

That makes no sense. It's a suspension lift. If the suspension travel really is the limiting factor, unbolt your shocks and spring retainers.
 
Markos said:
That makes no sense. It's a suspension lift. If the suspension travel really is the limiting factor, unbolt your shocks and spring retainers.
Click to expand...
Stock track bar and control arms only drop so far. Try it on a stock set up, then it will make perfect sense.
 
Fuel Lines? Those were in the way for me, after I got around those I just basically used my weight to yank it out, didn't tweak it or anything, and since I replaced the rear main seal, absolutely no leak.

When you get to the seal, buy two, they are easy to screw up, but reasonably priced.
 
When I replaced my seal I removed the oil pump and it slid right out. the problem was getting it back in but it still only took me two hours total. No leaks here either!
 
I had a friend who had to get to his rear main, he was having the same problem until he realized he could pull it straight out. Don't try and remove it from the front axle. Slide it straight back. It should come out pretty easy. *Didn't even have to remove the oil pump or droop the axle!!!
 
Most jeeps have a transmission there.
 
razdrvr said:
Most jeeps have a transmission there.
Click to expand...

Oh, well his must have not hung down as low as yours. :doh:
 
I've done this on two stockers without having to remove too much.

The trick? If there isn't clearance with the axle at full droop, I'll unscrew the transmission mount from the crossmember, and use a jack under the transfer case to lift that. You should be able to get room without having to hit the tunnel from underneath - since what you're probably hitting is the bellhousing. I've not had to remove the oil pump to remove or install the sump pan (although it is far easier with a 3" lift - my 87 had a 3" Rancho under it when I bought it...)
 
Alright guys thanks a lot!

I didn't get a chance to go back out there again today. Do you think I should still try jack the axle up like I had tried before. I am going to remove the little oil pump and also try disconnecting the shocks.
 
Markos said:
That makes no sense. It's a suspension lift. If the suspension travel really is the limiting factor, unbolt your shocks and spring retainers.
Click to expand...

The suspension lift gives more clearance between the chassis and the axles. The engine is mounted to the chassis, not the axle. Therefore, having a suspension lift will give you more room to remove the sump.
 
Ive had my XJ two weeks and ive had my oil pan out twice with out lifting the motor or taking out the starter. it can be done at stock hiegth. its a bit of a pain but it can be done. it will have to drop out the back first remember to move your tranny lines if auto. Having the starter out will help a great deal I didnt lift my motor or body at all it it came out with in 5 mins.

if you really want let loose the mounts and lift the motor using a cherry picker or jack it up from the transfer case.

make sure you watch that tranny mount you dont want to blow that out if you do lift it from the TC
 
HBDBRacing said:
Ive had my XJ two weeks and ive had my oil pan out twice with out lifting the motor or taking out the starter. it can be done at stock hiegth. its a bit of a pain but it can be done. it will have to drop out the back first remember to move your tranny lines if auto. Having the starter out will help a great deal I didnt lift my motor or body at all it it came out with in 5 mins.

if you really want let loose the mounts and lift the motor using a cherry picker or jack it up from the transfer case.

make sure you watch that tranny mount you dont want to blow that out if you do lift it from the TC
Click to expand...

Which is why I said to unscrew it from the X-member first - no sense in doing extra work you probably don't have to (of course, if one mount is failing, just replace all three before you crack your header.)
 
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