Replacing a gas tank

Easy? Difficult? Mine is rusty and the p/u tube has holes.

I have a new tank and sending/pick-up unit on order.

Any where I can find directions?

Thanks

pablo

it can be made easier with a transmission jack, and your J-bolts may break.

Basic instructions are.
a. run tank as low as you can.
b.support tank with jack.
c. loosen j bolts, and remove straps.
d. disconnect fuel and sensor lines.
e. disconnect filler line and vent.
f. lower jack and roll out from under jeep.


installation, reverse the steps.

and remember, if you cant see everything your working with, use a lighter......J/K goodburbon sumed it up, but remember when your installing your new fuel pump that there is a "nipple/bung" in the bottom of the tank and on the new fuel pump that need to be aligned in the 96-dowm tanks. If they are not properly lined up the fuel pump will not seat properly in the tank and cause it to leak around the spanner ring that holds the pump in. Hope this helps.

yes, the right side j-bolt almost always breaks because the heat from the exhaust freezes the nut to it & if you have rust issues you can bet the left one will also break. you need to disconect all hoses & wires before you drop the tank. if you can't get a tranny jack, a floor jack & a block of wood will also work.

I replaced mine recently, it was time consuming and nasty job but not really challenging.

Get one of these flex-head ratcheting wrenches in the 14mm flavor. The nuts take forever to run up and down the huge bolts.



Get some goggle or a face shield. You will be knocking all kinds of mud and undercoating off the jeep and ALL OF IT will want to go right into your eyeballs.

Get some ramps, they are $30 at True Value if you can't find another deal.

Put the rear of the jeep on the ramps, chock the front, lock the ebrake, etc.

Spray a bunch of PB Blaster on the J bolts

Siphon out whatever is left in your tank. You want it to be dead empty. This might take a little while--I ran mine below E and it still had 4 gallons because of misaligned sender.

Use the 14mm ratchet wrench to bring the front of the tank down almost all the way but do not remove the bolts just yet. You want it low so you can work on it.

Disconnect the various lines at the fuel sender assembly and tag the lines or memorize their location. Disconnect the wiring harness (it's over the rear axle towards the fuel pump).

Now you have to disconnect the fill and vent hoses. As an optional step open the gas door and look for a hex bolt that secures the fill hose assembly to the outer body, and disconnect that, then tug the cap towards you until it pops off. This will give you some slack in the hoses. Then crawl back under and disconnect the hoses on the left top of the tank, they should just be held on with hose clamps.

Unbolt the tank completely and let it rest on your chest. Look at the top and you'll see a couple of vacuum lines. Either disconnect them from the top of the tank, or disconnect the line somehow and take the vacuum harness out with the tank.

Once that's done, push the tank out from under the Jeep, and start removing whatever is still attached to it (the splash shield, the sender/pump assembly, etc.).

Installation is the opposite.

It took me the better part of a day to do the whole thing, including painting the tank with underbody spray, replacing fuel filter, etc.