Headlight plug & socket question

The truth is I've never changed an OEM XJ headlight. There, I said it. I have IPFs on my XJ but a co-worker needed help today changing a headlight on her stock XJ. I got the old lamp out... there was some corrosion on the brass tabs but not too bad.

I went to swap in the new light and it seemed that the tabs on the bulb did not sink very far into the socket before bottoming out (there are some little prongs on the lamp's tabs that bottom the tab out against the stocket). The lamp works fine but it seems like there is an awful lot of brass tab exposed between the socket and the lamp... perhaps 1/2"-3/4".

Normal? :confused1

The lights are held in by a stainless steel bezel/ring. There are 4 tabs - 2 on top and two on bottom - which have sheet metal screws in them. You remove the 4 screws, remove the bezel and the bulb. Place the bezel on the new light. Install in reverse order.

You mention brass tabs, Those are the headlight adjustment, do not touch those. But it sounds like you have. If you did, you need to reaim the headlights.

The "brass tabs" he's referring to are likely the copper spade lugs on the backside of the lamp, where the plug goes.

If the plug isn't going on all the way, check it to see if something is blocking it. It should seat fully, and you'd much rather it did. Corrosion, as you mentioned, may also be at issue - you may need to replace the plug. This can be done fairly easily - you can get pre-wired plugs for a few bucks at the local, and just clip & crimp to install. Match up the wires by position, which is easy to do if you do them one at a time.

Right on 5-90 -
yes, the copper spade lugs are the issue. I agree they should seat fully. The problem was that about halfway down each lug was a punched out/bent out stud (done by Wagner). This stud would prevent the lug from sliding fully into any socket. It seems to be there by design although I can't imagine what the purpose is.
So, when I push the lamp's lugs into the socket up to the stud, I still had the lower length of lug (which is fused to the back of the lamp) exposed.

I know it ain't right... perhaps we should try a different lamp. Again, co-worker's car so I'm not game to start snippin' her headlight sockets off :wierd:

duke000088 said:

Right on 5-90 -
yes, the copper spade lugs are the issue. I agree they should seat fully. The problem was that about halfway down each lug was a punched out/bent out stud (done by Wagner). This stud would prevent the lug from sliding fully into any socket. It seems to be there by design although I can't imagine what the purpose is.
So, when I push the lamp's lugs into the socket up to the stud, I still had the lower length of lug (which is fused to the back of the lamp) exposed.

I know it ain't right... perhaps we should try a different lamp. Again, co-worker's car so I'm not game to start snippin' her headlight sockets off :wierd:

Click to expand...

That tap isn't there to prevent the lugs going in, it's there to prevent them wiggling out. However, if it's punched the wrong way, it can cause trouble (the "flying end" should be closer to the headlamp body, not pointing toward the rear.)

I've seen those on quite a few electrical connectors - they're there for when a mechanical lock on the shell is impractical for some reason, but the connection is still subject to a good deal of vibration. I have seen them punched the wrong way on a headlamp - once in about thirty years. Turned out the whole batch had been done that way (I found out when I took it back) and the shop had to return them all. The next batch? Just ducky.