• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

D35 to a 8.25

magimerlin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Flatonia, Tx
Ok yes I searched but didn't find any direct answers. I cannot seem to find a D44 out of a XJ that someone doesnt want an arm and a leg for sooo. I am opting towards the 8.25. It will be from a 97+ XJ so it will be the 29 spline. I need to confirm a couple things though. Will the D35 u-bolt plates work on the 8.25, or will I need new ones? I know I will need new u-bolts. Will the D35 drive shaft work with the 8.25? I remember reading that it may push the yoke back into the tc about 3/4 " or so. I am sitting at 4.5-5.0" so that will push the yoke back into the tc, closer to stock insertion. Can I use the same YJ e-brake cables I used on the D35 (they are longer then stock XJ cables). Other than those questions I believe it is a direct bolt on correct.
Thank you
Jay
 
jeeperjohn said:
You will need the proper u-bolt plates and the brake cables should work.
the u bolt plates will work for both axles as they are sloted from the factory
 
icewolf73 said:
The axle widths are different. The u-bolt plates are different. Wider u-bolts means different bolt-hole patterns on the plates.
the factory ubolt plates are sloted for the diff axles, my plates have worked for the factory D35, a D44 ive had and a 8.25 all with the same ubolt plates
 
igotanxj said:
How about driveshaft? Will that work too?
if your lifted yes, stock no, i used my stock D35 shaft when i swaped in my D44 it pushed the yoke back in the tcase a bit and helped cure my vibes
 
ROBZ95Xj said:
the factory ubolt plates are sloted for the diff axles, my plates have worked for the factory D35, a D44 ive had and a 8.25 all with the same ubolt plates

True on the slotted plates, I forgot about that. I would still recommend getting the correct u-bolts for an 8.25. The D35 u-bolts will have to be strecthed over the wider 8.25 axle tubes. And for the vice versa u-bolts from an 8.25 would have to be pinched down to fit properly on a D35.
 
I didn't have any slots in the plates on mine:rattle:

could this have been an adaptation that began when the 8.25 and D35 were both used? I've got an '88 and the 8.25 wasn't offered at the time.....maybe?
 
igotanxj said:
How about driveshaft? Will that work too?

I am at 3" in the rear and my stock D35 driveline was just a hair too long when the suspension was compressed with 31's. It would have worked fine as long as the suspension didn't cycle hard up in the rear. I didn't want to grenade the NP231 so I went with a stock driveline originally meant for the 8.25" and it works fine. It's cheaper than having your existing driveline shortened also, if you get it at a pick and pull. The '95 Dodge Dakota rear brake line works great for more line length too.
 
icewolf73 said:
True on the slotted plates, I forgot about that. I would still recommend getting the correct u-bolts for an 8.25. The D35 u-bolts will have to be strecthed over the wider 8.25 axle tubes. And for the vice versa u-bolts from an 8.25 would have to be pinched down to fit properly on a D35.

u-bolts shouldn't really be re-used anyway
 
I've got the napa part numbers for the ubolts at home. I'll post them tonight.
D44's were on special this weekend at PAP, $45 with a $10 core charge. :) Bunch of guys in socal have them for 300-350, I saw one just drop to 250.
Normal yard price is 90-150ish at the pick a part, and like 500+ from a normal yard.

Since you're probably going to have to mess with driveshaft length, do an SYE and DS when you do the swap. Otherwise you're going to pay 2 times for the driveshaft. Or, get the driveshaft from the donor jeep.
 
Back
Top