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why xj's tend to overheat!

xuv-this

bondo afficianado
Location
southwest VA.
yeah, i know not another radiator thread, blah, blah. ok, so i think i've read every single radiator option post on naxja tonight, and was thinking of going with a 3 core radiator, and then it hit me like a brick.

the problem in our radiator design is flow resistance. period. the friggin' thing is 3 times as long as it is tall. all i can say to the 3 row fans is that i would not want to be you in 50,000 miles. a normally shaped radiator is like that for a reason. yes, a 3 row for us would initally flow and transfer heat better than a stock unit until the normal corrosion/junk starts building up, only the resistance affects our radiator shape more. the xj radiator has less flow volume than say a tj, so the cooling system has to make up for it in speed.

i saw a random post where some person was comparing the copper in radiators to the copper in electrical wiring, and then it hit me. resistance. most radiators have like 50 row tubes 15" long, but we have 25 row tubes 30" long. now if you do the math, that's pretty much the same surface area. yeah. apply that to 12 volts in a wire if you're working on say a custom dual battery system or mabye buying an amp kit to drive your sub. and forget about the voltage drop in your wire size. simply put, resistance. my point is that our radiator design, because of the longer tubes, get flow affected more by the resistance to the flow in the tubes. see, in a 2 parallel wires 1 foot long, or 1 wire 2 feet long of the same gauge, theoretically they would have the same total resistance. but they don't. the resistance compounds itself over the wires length. the resistance % is the same, but as the wire goes on and on, the same coefficient would be applied to that wire say 10 feet down, it gets applied to less voltage.

the same principle can be applied the resistance of the radiator on the cooling system flow. why do you think the engineers put the electric fan on the cold side of the radiator? of course a nice shiny radiator has given so many of you guys an improvement in cooling. it hasn't gunked up yet. the problem in adding surface area to that design of radiator is that there's not much space to do it. the tubes are just made smaller. so there is more inner surface area in roughly the same space, which doesn't do much for flow. as far as copper vs aluminum, those tiny copper tubes can get pretty nasty after a while. nice clean new aluminum probably would have a better thermal conductivity.
ok, i'm beat. so i guess i'm done Hasta .
 
That seems like a long way of saying "i'm getting myself a 2 row all-aluminum radiator, because in the long run, its better"

:D

good info!
 
xuv-this said:
all i can say to the 3 row fans is that i would not want to be you in 50,000 miles.


Why?
Ive already been running a GDI 3 row for about 80000 with no issues. Id be happy to get another 50000 from it.

ALuminum vs copper. I'll give you that aluminum is better but at three times the price, it should be. I guess those with aluminum should now look down their noses at those of us low life copper guys.

If you want aluminum, go for it, its your paycheck. Im happy with my $99 dollar GDI.
 
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Ray H said:
Why?
Ive already been running a GDI 3 row for about 80000 with no issues. Id be happy to get another 50000 from it.

ALuminum vs copper. I'll give you that aluminum is better but at three times the price, it should be. I guess those with aluminum should now look down their noses at those of us low life copper guys.

If you want aluminum, go for it, its your paycheck. Im happy with my $99 dollar GDI.

Agreed. I have about 40k on mine with no ill effects. I run two stock e-fans wired together and even in 90+ temps with our ridiculous humidity they only come on if I'm crawling around or sitting idle. Then they kick on, and right back off within a minute or so because the temps plummet. My antifreeze also looks brand new, and tests fine. Sometimes real world experience can defy theory.
 
Who makes aluminum radiators for the XJ besides Alumrad.com and....CSF?
 
xuv-this said:
the problem in adding surface area to that design of radiator is that there's not much space to do it. the tubes are just made smaller. so there is more inner surface area in roughly the same space, which doesn't do much for flow.
I have to disagree with you there. My 3-core radiator was significantly thicker than the stock 2-core, about 50% thicker, in fact (go figure). It barely fit in the space available. My system also holds quite a bit more coolant now.

In addition, Marcus (GoJeep) has done some interesting experiments regarding coolant flow. He discovered that too much flow will actually hurt cooling performance, because the water isn't in the radiator long enough to cool off. You can see his writeup here:
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRadiatorRestrictor.htm

EDIT:
Also here:
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRadiatorFitting.htm
 
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Copper/brass is more resistant to corrosion in an extreme environment than aluminum. Aluminum corrodes just because it's in contact with steel - and that's really hard to stop in an electrically conductive use like a radiator. Aluminum is more expensive these days, and copper radiators are a 100 year old proven solution.

Yes, resistance is a major factor in overheating. It's even why the spring is put in the lower hose - older cars will suck the hose shut because of the poor flow in a old corroded radiator. Of course, periodic cleaning, use of distilled water, and anti-corrosive additives wouldn't hurt, but nobody bothers. It's an appliance, like the refrigerator. Cleaned the condensor coil on that bad boy this year? I didn't think so, I don't either.

I don't think your take on resistance is wrong, but the long term use of aluminum radiators doesn't show a clear superiority. 'Vettes aren't known for being service free in that regard.
 
All I know is I need some sort of advantage living out here in the desert where temps can easily reach 110-120 in the summer.
 
If I get 50,000 miles out of Anything that cost me like 200 bucks Im happy with that. I just put in a 3 core rad recently and my temps went down because of it.

Im also in the desert and see those 120s so anything that helps keep me cooler the better, even if its short term and needs often replacing.
 
BlackSport96 said:
All I know is I need some sort of advantage living out here in the desert where temps can easily reach 110-120 in the summer.

x2, and I cant make up my mind which is better :doh:
 
i'm still not sure which material is superior, but i think the all aluminum radiator that i just bought is much better than the 15 peice stamped and glued all metal radiators.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1991-2001-JEEP-CHEROKEE-ALL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-4-0-L_W0QQitemZ250263056871QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33602QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

why? what, i ask you is the thermal heat conductivity of epoxy? i have noticed many times when welding that 2 steel pipes/plates/whatever that are touching one another don't transfer heat between each other very well at all. if they are permenantly bonded together then it is a very diffferent effect. the cooling advantage that i expect to gain from this part comes solely from it being basically a clean, solid chunk of aluminum. now, i'm not talking about boiling all the coolant and running it at an extreme temp. i'm thinking that this type of radiator will keep the coolant at a uniform, cool operating temprature, therefore largely preventing spots where it heats up and the coolant residue builds up and starts to eat stuff. you're airflow is NOT cooling the water. it is cooling the aluminum. and the aluminum is cooling the water.
also, look at the lateral space that a tj or chevy radiator needs to take the coolant temp down. and our radiators have twice that length. seems to me that logically we would run TWICE as cool lol. but we usually end up closer to the other end of the spectrum. so the way i look at it, the stock radiator has more than enough physical surface area for cooling, but the problem is the amount that gets cooled at one time(it's short, so not much). so flow speed will be crucial. if i had to guess a gojeeps writeup, i would have to speculate that he's streamlined his entire cooling system, and just evening out the pressure on the system, and preventing some part of the lower radiator hose from collapsing. i dunno. mabye i'm totally wrong there, but i've looked at other raqdiators from simarly sized engines, and they all have one thing in common. about twice the inlet/ outlet room on the core to flow more cfm of coolant.
 
Copper conducts and dissapates heat better than aluminum. One of the reasons they use aluminum is for weight savings. usually when you go with more cores you will add quite a bit if weight.
 
Did you actually get that radiator yet? Let us know what you think once you get your hands on it....looks nice, but only one very small pic of it...
 
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xuv-this said:
the problem in our radiator design is flow resistance. period. the friggin' thing is 3 times as long as it is tall. all i can say to the 3 row fans is that i would not want to be you in 50,000 miles. a normally shaped radiator is like that for a reason.
Lemme think - it must have been nearly 100,000 miles since I put my 3-row GDI in. Since then, I've overheated...never. Yeah, it sucks to be a 3-row XJ. :rolleyes:


Daedalus454 said:
I have to disagree with you there. My 3-core radiator was significantly thicker than the stock 2-core, about 50% thicker, in fact (go figure). It barely fit in the space available. My system also holds quite a bit more coolant now.
That's exactly what I was thinking as well. My 3-row took up all of the available mounting surface (the 'tray' that holds it in place), while the stock 2-row was much thinner.

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
I HOPE that i get it by the end of the week. i'll keep ya' posted!

as far as inadvertantly rehashing the 3 row debate, i'm not trying to bash, but i still think that a 1 or 2 row is superior, unless the 3 row cores are each the same inner diamater or larger than stock. i can guarantee that any cooling advantage that you guys might be having is soley from increased flow. look how long our core tubes are, pretty much every other modern radiator needs tubes half that long to cool properly. so if anything, we have MORE temp drop as the coolant passes through, but as i said before, we need that because of the lack of volume/cfm. if anything our coolant has to work harder because the temp cycle window is larger. i might just bet that since a lot of you guys upgraded to 3 rows, you now take better care of your cooling system, too. :)
 
You are probably getting tired of hearing me say this, but I installed a 2 row copper / brass radiator with plastic end tanks (I just discovered it is plastic end tanks, not the better ones) on my 87, about 30,000 miles ago, it has 254,000 miles on the engine and body, old water pump, 180 F thermostat, and with the AC running, and 98 F outside at say 75% humidity, mine still does not get over 201 F at the thermostat housing or in the block. It also has a 30,000 mile old fan clutch and efan temperature switch in the radiator, and a new hoses and not very old coolant bottle.

The newer 89 I bought last year tried to over heat on the way home in heavy traffic with AC on, at 90 F, because the Efan switch was bad. Hot wired the fan, and no more overheating with it either, old radiator.
 
Ray H said:
Why?
Ive already been running a GDI 3 row for about 80000 with no issues. Id be happy to get another 50000 from it.

ALuminum vs copper. I'll give you that aluminum is better but at three times the price, it should be. I guess those with aluminum should now look down their noses at those of us low life copper guys.

If you want aluminum, go for it, its your paycheck. Im happy with my $99 dollar GDI.

What is the GDI Part # for the 3 row rad?
 
Ernrok said:
What is the GDI Part # for the 3 row rad?

I dont remember. Its been about 9 years since I bought mine. I got it from www.radiator.com.
Another comparible brand is CSF. I think DPG carries those. I would suggest DPG Offroad http://www.dpgoffroad.com/. Very good people to work with. I got a CSF from DPG when the radiator in my wifes TJ started leaking. Its held up just as well as the GDI in my XJ.

EDIT: I just went to www.radiator.com to look for a part#. They have changed their site alot since I was there last. It sucks a$$ now. You gotta go through all kinds of crap just to find out how much it soct, and dont even bother trying to find out who makes their radiators now. Another store people have used with success is www.radiatorbarn.com

EDIT: I see that radiatorbarn has the 3 core GSF for around $164 and DPG has them for $175. I bet you could talk Dirk down to match price. Thats what I would do. Hes a better guy to deal with than radiator barn, especially if you get it and have to return it for some reason.
 
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I replace my stock 2 row about 3 years ago with a 3 row CSF and haven't looked back. My temp never budges from just under 210, even under load pulling canyons here in Utah. I also at the same time switched to an open cooling system, instead of the closed system (1989 4.0 XJ) and that made a world of a difference I am sure as well. Even got a tank mounted up from a 94 in the old spot where the pressure tank was.



Though, I did overheat once.....after my clutch fan put a tiny hole in the radiator on Hole in the Rock.....bad trans mount let the motor move forward too much. ;)

2 thumbs up for a 3 row and open system from me. :)
 
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