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Rebuilding altenator easy?

wim hoppenbrouwers

NAXJA Forum User
Hallo Jeepers. Is a rebuilding of a nippondenso alt. easy and can I do that cheap? What for parts do I need? Mayby brushes and bearings?
Can I do it with normal tools or do I need some specials?
:shhh:
 
What's wrong - any idea?

Typical points of failure are brushes (fairly easy - crack case and you can see from there) or bearings (a bit more difficult - especially the front bearing on the ND. IIRC, that pully is pressed on.)

Brushes and bearings are available fairly easily over here - I'm not so sure about your side of the puddle.

As long as you don't have to replace the stator coil (around the outside - wants soldering,) it's fairly easy to rebuild most alternators. The coils can usually be checked with an ohmmeter, but I don't recall the specs.
 
5-90 said:
What's wrong - any idea?

Typical points of failure are brushes (fairly easy - crack case and you can see from there) or bearings (a bit more difficult - especially the front bearing on the ND. IIRC, that pully is pressed on.)

Brushes and bearings are available fairly easily over here - I'm not so sure about your side of the puddle.

As long as you don't have to replace the stator coil (around the outside - wants soldering,) it's fairly easy to rebuild most alternators. The coils can usually be checked with an ohmmeter, but I don't recall the specs.

Well. The altenator of a Jeep from a Dutch forummember gives only 12 Volts.
I suspect the voltageregular in the ECU. But he told me that for a few Euros he can fix it. I adviced him to look at the grounds and take measurements on the altenator and not believe the voltmeter on the dash.:eek:
 
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wim hoppenbrouwers said:
Well. The altenator of a Jeep from a Dutch forummember gives only 12 Volts.
I suspect the voltageregular in the ECU. But he told me that for a few Euros he can fix it. I adviced him to look at the grounds and take measurements on the altenator and not believe the voltmeter on the dash.:eek:

Definitely verify the IP gage reading - they're notorious liars, and usually read a bit low anyhow. Verify with readings at the battery, and at the post on the alternator proper.

Fortunately, the regulators rarely fail in ChryCo PCMs (odd, I know) - so the cause is either wiring (dirty connection) or internal to the alternator (brushes, diodes, rectifiers, ...) More input, please!
 
Hi fellas.......not to get off topic but as long as were talking about alternators...just wondering if an alternator from an 02 will swap into a 92 with little to no mods? I found a sweet deal on craigslist.
 
paxj92 said:
Hi fellas.......not to get off topic but as long as were talking about alternators...just wondering if an alternator from an 02 will swap into a 92 with little to no mods? I found a sweet deal on craigslist.

Search around here for "Durango Upgrade", "ZJ Upgrade", or "WJ Upgrade" - they're all fairly common.

You may run into the "upgrade" alternator being larger in size than the one you're replacing - if it's not too much, people have had good luck in grinding/cutting the mount to clear the case, and there are pictures here.

'02 what? Your 1992 would have come with a 90A Nippondenso, 2002 gives you the following options:

2002WJ/4.0L - 132A Bosch (connections are likely to be different - I'd have to check)
2002WJ/4.7L - 136A Nippondenso (larger case)
2002KJ/2.4L - 117A or 136A Nippondenso
2002KJ/3.7L - 136A Nippondenso
2002TJ/2.4L - 117A Nippondenso
2002TJ/2.46L - 117A Nippondenso
2002TJ/4.0L - 81 or 117A Nippondenso

And, of course, there was no 2002XJ with any engine - production halted in 2001.

If you're going to buy a horse, make sure it has a leg on all four corners - not that there's one of those units that isn't really an "upgrade."

Also, bear in mind that if you want to take full advantage of your upgrade, a wiring upgrade is also in order. I can help you with that as well.

(I've been meaning to code an alternator chart for the WiP site one of these days - maybe while I'm on holiday and trying to relax? I find the business relaxing - it's being home that drives me nvts...)
 
5-90 said:
Definitely verify the IP gage reading - they're notorious liars, and usually read a bit low anyhow. Verify with readings at the battery, and at the post on the alternator proper.

Fortunately, the regulators rarely fail in ChryCo PCMs (odd, I know) - so the cause is either wiring (dirty connection) or internal to the alternator (brushes, diodes, rectifiers, ...) More input, please!

Hallo. Whe soaked the alternator a few times with contactcleaner.
After drying with pressed air: 14 volts!:party: Hopefully no harm to the
bearings. I think that the problems were dirt and mud on the brushes.
Thanks for the input.
 
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