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Factory Roof Rack Questions

P

Para069

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Birmingham , AL
Hello everyone,
I am new to the board and need advice on installing a factory roof rack.

I am not very good at working on vehicles and have never punched a hole in one :)

Having found on Ebay a New OEM rack with all the hardware and also a used rack w/ the side rails and crossovers , but no hardware.
The used one is much cheaper.

My questions are
Is the "hardware" (screws,etc) to install a used rack to be found at a parts store or "Lowes" type store? Would they be just regular SS self-tapping type screws?

Does my Jeep (99 XJ , 2D, 4WD) have a double walled roof or do I have to remove the headliner?

How about waterproofing the screw holes?

Thanks for all help.
Para069
 
Is there a reason why you want to go this route as opposed to getting a Thule/Yakima Gutter Mount type system? Much better than the OEM and you can carry more weight up there.

Plus, no drilling necessary.
 
If price is an issue go with a surco roof rack and gutter mounts, if price is not an issue go with thule or ARB safari rack. Warrior also makes a nice one. For the surco go check the prices, summitracing.com seems to have the best overall and fast shipping too.
 
I was not wanting to get a "Safari" or basket type rack because of the wind noise issues I have read about.

I looked at a Thule rack w/ a gutter mount and liked it , but was just going to go w/ a factory rack because it was much cheaper and did not have to worry about it being stolen off the vehicle when I park it at a trailhead for a few days.

How about the drilling issue on my Jeep? Is the roof double walled?

Thanks for the quick replys and help.
 
I agree. Get an aftermarket rack. I have a factory roof rack but I use my Thule when I need to carry bikes, my car top carrier or anything heavy that doesn't fit inside. You can get a lot of accessories for an aftermarket rack to carry special loads (like bicycle mounts

I'd almost bet I could lift my xj up by the Thule but wouldn't trust the factory rack.
 
I have the optional locking knobs for my Thule. When I don't need them, they take only a few minutes to remove and toss in the back (or leave at home).
 
If you put the factory rack on you will need to drill holes thru the roof, 8 maybe per side then insert an expandable nutcert in the hole, expand the nut cert, seal it then bolt the rail on. The tool is about $30 or so, the dealer charges about $1.50 per nut cert but they don't carry the bolts, you need to get them at a hardware store. You will also need to get the glue down strips that go between the rails and get stuck to the roof itself. My surco is not that noisy that I notice and costs maybe 1mpg. Been thinking about taking it off, mostly when I get gas but never seem to get round to it..
My surco is mounted to the factory rails and for the 6 years it's been on it has not been molested once even parked in NYC and Philly.
 
I am going to go against the tide and say depending on what you want to carry, get the factory rack. I have a couple sets of bars to carry kayaks, skies or a canoe and cargo box. It looks a lot cleaner in my opinion. Maybe the gutter mounts don't have this problem but using fit clips that the door closes on is a pain. Total weight limit for factory rack is more than enough for most recreational purposes.

Eric
 
Para069 said:
I was not wanting to get a "Safari" or basket type rack because of the wind noise issues I have read about.

I looked at a Thule rack w/ a gutter mount and liked it , but was just going to go w/ a factory rack because it was much cheaper and did not have to worry about it being stolen off the vehicle when I park it at a trailhead for a few days.

How about the drilling issue on my Jeep? Is the roof double walled?

Thanks for the quick replys and help.
Click to expand...

No it is not, it will need about 30 holes and the rubber threaded plugs that go in them.
Also there are gaskets under everything, the stock rack is prone to leaking.

I might add that the amount a weight a stock rack will carry is not an issue, the problem is tyeing the load down with out pulling the screws out of the roof.
 
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Para069 said:
I was not wanting to get a "Safari" or basket type rack because of the wind noise issues I have read about.

I looked at a Thule rack w/ a gutter mount and liked it , but was just going to go w/ a factory rack because it was much cheaper and did not have to worry about it being stolen off the vehicle when I park it at a trailhead for a few days.

How about the drilling issue on my Jeep? Is the roof double walled?

Thanks for the quick replys and help.
Click to expand...

I've got a factory rack that I don't use and a Yakima rack that mounts to the gutter. It locks to the roof and all the accessories lock to the rack. the best part is Yakimas Same Key System (SKS) One key for all the locks and the locks are interchangeable so you only need as many locks and you can fit stuff on your roof at one time. If you swap out a bike rack for a ski rack you can swap the locks.
 
Para069 said:
I was not wanting to get a "Safari" or basket type rack because of the wind noise issues I have read about.

I looked at a Thule rack w/ a gutter mount and liked it , but was just going to go w/ a factory rack because it was much cheaper and did not have to worry about it being stolen off the vehicle when I park it at a trailhead for a few days.
Click to expand...
Mine lock so they'd be very difficult to steal.
 
ebishop said:
I am going to go against the tide and say depending on what you want to carry, get the factory rack. I have a couple sets of bars to carry kayaks, skies or a canoe and cargo box. It looks a lot cleaner in my opinion. Maybe the gutter mounts don't have this problem but using fit clips that the door closes on is a pain. Total weight limit for factory rack is more than enough for most recreational purposes.

Eric
Click to expand...
Carrying kayaks on a factory rack is a really bad idea if you are goign to be driving on the hwy. I've seen many people lose boats that way. There's too much lift for a factory style rack to handle. Gutter mount is the way to go for boats.
 
I have a surco roof rack. I have never heard it once. So I believe your worries about wind noise are unfounded if you are talking about a surco. Plus, no drilling, it mounts to the gutters.
 
I would agree with the consensus that if you don't have a factory rack now you would be better off springing for a Thule or a Yakima. Expensive, yes, but very strong and totally removable in about 30 seconds.

If you go for a factory rack much will depend on which factory rack you are looking at. There are several variants depending on the year. The later models do not need quite so many holes as the older ones. Only the side rails are mountedon the last two versions, and the rub strips are just glued on with double-sticky tape. Sometime around 1998 the factory racks were shortened, also. The 99 has a shorter rack than the 95. The earlier racks, up to somewhere in the early 90's use a different design, and LOTS of holes. For any version, if the job is to be done right, the holes need to be drilled precisely (and frighteningly large), and "well nut" inserts used. These are expanding rubber anchor plugs with threaded holes in them. The rack is then screwed into those well nuts. If you don't use stainless screws you'll be sorry too. If you attempt to mount a roof rack with sheet metal screws, it will probably leak.
 
I popped my factory rack twice soon after I got it. Removed the liner and beefed up the mounting myself with more holes and screws and nuts. A lot of work compared to the gutter mounted ones but I like the clean low profile factory look.
 
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First , Thanks again to everyone that has replied. Its good advice I am receiving.

I think that a factory rack for me is not what I need now.

Several have stated that they are NOT noticing any, or much , increase in wind noise from a safari basket type rack and one poster stated that he thinks that he is only paying a 1mpg penalty with his basket rack.

Is this average? I have read in prior posting that the basket racks are not the way to go if you spend much time on the hwy at speed because of these factors. Just really how bad are these issues, Guys that run the basket racks chime in please.
 
langer1 said:
Well for one thing you don't need to leave them on ALL the time if you don't need it.
Click to expand...

X2. I have Thule bars mounted in the factory channel on my '01. At some time mopar cut about 18" off of the front of the racks and that is the case for my Jeep. My plan is to buy a gutter mount single bar for the front and mount my canoe to it and the rear-most bar in the factory track. The OEM cross bars are too flexible for hauling anything you care about, or anything that can rub on your roof!

There was a guy on Ebay that was selling a gutter mount roof rack and a cargo basket he manufactured for what seemed like a very reasonable price. In an e-mail he told me that the bars can stay on and be used for other things when you don't want/need the basket. I'll see if I can find out who he was.

Here is one of his auctions. If you read down he mentions the gutter mounts, but they aren't in this particular auction. I have not seen these in person, but they sound good! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/jeep...tegoryZ33651QQihZ016QQitemZ260026805964QQrdZ1
 
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