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Weld Nut Broke

XJ Stryker

WHO DAT!
So here we go.

Installing a 3in RC lift and Having Problems with the Pass Front Leaf Spring mount. THe weld nut broke. SO I cut a hole.

DSC03332.jpg


Easy no prob now I can Access the Weld nut. FYI it is NOT a 21mm on the other side. I was able to put a 15/16 on it pretty snug so it is close to that.

DSC03331.jpg


Ok the problem comes after I loosen it up. Seems that the bolt will not start coming out of the sleeve AT ALL. I mean it is backed up all the way against the housing. from the pic.

DSC03334.jpg


I cut a hole in the Frame to get a look from the other side of it.
DSC03336.jpg


I have turned it about 10 more threads since i took those pics and it hasnt changed any so I can safely say that the nut is no longer holding the bolt on.

I can't get a hammer or punch in there to tap it from the side with the last pic. So I cut a notch in the head of the bolt to try and PRY on it. No luck

I am thinking about cutting it here.
DSC03333.jpg


I have no clue WHY or what to do to get this out. I cant get anything in there to cut the WELD NUT side off. If i cut it there I am thinking PRY the HELL out of the top of the spring back till I can slide it off the bolt then maybe cut it again and pull it out of the hole i cut. I dont know.

I need help.


All Idea's are welcome

NOTE: I HAVE NO WELDER
 
well, since the hole is already cut, i would get a grinder or saw up in there and hack off the bushing and bolt. That whole bolt rusted in the bushing is not a new deal....why all bushings should be greasable IMHO.

Anywho, just cut both sides of the bushing off and let the spring drop out, remove the head of the bolt and either the weld nut and bolt...or if you can't....slide it back in, clamp the hell out of the bolt side with vice grips and keep taking the nut off.

Afterwards, you're at least gonna want to weld that unibody back together if not reinforce it with some steel plate.

At least that's what I'd do.
 
SanDiegoXJ said:
well, since the hole is already cut, i would get a grinder or saw up in there and hack off the bushing and bolt. That whole bolt rusted in the bushing is not a new deal....why all bushings should be greasable IMHO.

Anywho, just cut both sides of the bushing off and let the spring drop out, remove the head of the bolt and either the weld nut and bolt...or if you can't....slide it back in, clamp the hell out of the bolt side with vice grips and keep taking the nut off.

Afterwards, you're at least gonna want to weld that unibody back together if not reinforce it with some steel plate.

At least that's what I'd do.


Thanks its better to get advice than to get flamed like the idiot that posted before you.

I did not want to cut into the frame but didnt think i had much of a choice. Once again thanks for the Idea. I will just cut both sides of the bolt next to the leaf spring let it drop out then pull the other sides out. This problem was real easy to solve now that i look at it. Helps to have extra eyes sometime I guess.

Thanks
 
XJ Stryker said:
I did not want to cut into the frame but didnt think i had much of a choice...

You didn't. Once that weld nut broke loose you were screwed. I can't tell from the photos where you cut, but you only needed one hole on the base of the unibody to remove the old nut and slide the new one up in there.

On a side note, before they weld the flap back in place or put steel plate over it, have them tack weld that nut in place in a couple of spots. Then if you have an opportunity, get yourself some greasable bolts so this crap doesn't happen to you again. =)
 
when this happened to me, i cut an access hole in the mount(like in 2nd pic). but my proplem was the nut was rust-welded to the bolt and i could get it off, so i used a sawsall to cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing. once the leaf pack dropped out i had to manipulate the nut with the bolt end in it and ground off any excess with a grinder by holding it out through the bolt hole. i was then able to get it out through the hole i made. cutting the frame wasnt necessary, but the whole ordeal was a bit of a PIA.
 
why not from the top down?? just have to lift te carpet in the back.
 
THat would have been easy if I had done my lift sooner I guess I forgot to mention that.


I had a Major Rust problem when i First bought it.
Finishedpatchwork.jpg


So I spent alot of time just getting new floors into it.


I Rhino-Lined the entire interior.
Rearcomplete.jpg


So I am more less forced to work from the bottom up. Or I screw up my perfect floor.
 
Had a similar problem. Had fire extinguisher handy and melted the bushing. Gave enough play to easily cut the bolt on both sides of the spring. Made small reusable access hole in the floor and removed the leftovers. Can now easily flip the port I cut open to get to the nut. P.S If you are in the rust belt anti seize the bolt where the bushing rides, not the threads. This should eliminate most headaches later.
 
I cut the bottom off of my front spring mount just as you did.... then i replaced the bolt and nut with a 9/16" bolt and nylock nut i think it was. Yea pretty sure it was 9/16" thread... and i havent even welded the piece i cut out back on yet and really dont plan on doin so... tho i only cut the first layer of metal no all into the uniframe rails anywhere. you are goin to have to weld that crap back up some.
 
as far as cuttin the bolt to get the spring out === sawzall. Then you just go buy a bolt and nut to put the new lift spring back in.
 
Got the same problem on mine right now. Will probably get rid of that nut, weld in a new one, and go from there. On a sucky rating of 1-10 it's pretty much a 15.
 
1badass4x4 said:
You should have just left it in there and built off the main leaf.Why were you trying to remove it?To do an aal you dont have to remove the leafs


I don't see anywhere where he said he was doing an AAL.
 
jrowell said:
Do you have a better idea?


While he doesn't have ready access to a welder; a good fix is to drill 2-3 holes through the frame into the nut, and plug weld it back into place.
 
1badass4x4 said:
You should have just left it in there and built off the main leaf.Why were you trying to remove it?To do an aal you dont have to remove the leafs


I got 3in Full packs so I am forced to remove the old springs plus they are 21 years old. My other 87 went so smooth I mean I was done with the back in 2 hours but this one my god. In addition to the bolt I am working on now I got all four shock bolts busted too. I got plans for these though.

Another ? With the hole in the frame rail being about 1 in x 1 in what are the cons to not welding. Could that lil hole cause BIG problems. I can't see how but then again I don't claim to be an engineer but I just don't see how it would make any difference.
 
I just put on the RE 4.5 rear leafs on saterday, The same damn thing. I had to cut through the bushing sleve and the bolt on 2 sides, cut a hole and pry it open to get the damn nut out. Put it all back togather and will be going over to a friends shop next week to patch weld up my cuts. As far as holes causing problems at 1 inch it is really unlikely, there are holes down there throughout the frame, If you have to do a TC drop witch I did for now be prepared to cut more! My boltd actually came out but barley, thought for sure they were going to snap.
 
I had a 87 than i swear every f'n bolt i touched broke off in it,go get yourself some real torches,xj's love'm
I would fix the hole,but if you listened to everyone on the board you would be running 31's with a ome $1000 3" lift on bfg a/t tires,full armor and every option known to man
Just build what you want,eventully you will be where you want with it and hell it it dont work,you can buy them for nothing.I dont get why people spend gobs of $$ of replacing floorpans,rhyno lining just to put new carpet back in.If its rusting away go find a southern xj,there everywhere!
 
1badass4x4 said:
I dont get why people spend gobs of $$ of replacing floorpans,rhyno lining just to put new carpet back in.


But that is what I did except for the spending gobs of money lol. I got scrap metal and riveted it in. Then the cheap walmart Plasticoat (which works really well) and did the floor. Yeah I put the carpet back in the front mainly for comfort and too keep a lil bit of the Limited look. I still love my Waggie though.
 
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