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1985 jeep cherokee v6 automatic

techshooter02

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bend, oregon
So I bought this jeep really cheep and they told me It had a charging problem.
when I went to look at it and lifted the hood, I noticed the air cleaner cover was removed, hence somebody playing with carb and maybe more than a charging probem. Batt dead so cant crank it.

So we buy it trailer it home and work on it, fix some wiring so it could be started by the key.
Motor turns over 6-8 revolutions and then just seems to stop and the starter goes "click click" for 10-16 times or more then it gets past the hard spot.

remove the plugs spray some lube down inside the cylinders and does that click click thing a few more times and now it turns like a top with out spark plugs in it.

Ended up rebuilding the carb on it last night because it was full of crud and pucking gas all over out the boul. Put carb back on it to day and plugs back in it and it fires right up.

I put some trans mission fluid in the motor to clean it out it was low two quarts of oil, so I added two quarts of trans fluid. While Idling it sounds ok but rev it up just a bit and you can hear a "chatter knocking sound"
goes away when at idle.

Do you think it is a wrist pin on the piston or maybe rod bearing???????
 
It's the POS Chevy 2.8L...

Junk it and buy a 4.3 or similar GM RWD V6.....

GM performance makes a 3.1L crate motor that would drop right in.....

And before you get mad for telling you to junk the 2.8L, I had one in my 84 S-10 Blazer...

Gutless wonder, with A TON of issues to boot.....
 
Concur. The 2.8L is pretty much a boat-anchor, unless you're going to go through it bit by bit and chase all the problems out (had a 1985 Cavalier with the 2.8L, and a 1992 Corsica with the 3.1L. Night and day...)

When you're looking for the 3.1/3.4 donor, don't neglect the FWD platforms. The 60-degree V6 (3.1L/3.4L) from the S-series or the F-body (Camaro/Firebird) will be a direct swap, but the Goodwrench Service Replacement block had starter mounting pads on both sides - if there's an unused starter motor mounting pad on the backside of a FWD block (as mounted,) it's a GSR block and can also be used in RWD applications.

The 60-degree V6 should bolt up neatly to the transmission you have - so the 3.1L and 3.4L should be a direct swap, as long as you have the starter motor mounting pad on the correct (pax) side as mounted.
 
um.

the chatter chatter is probably because half of the oil is not oil, and you've probably now ruined the motor. when putting things like that in the motor to "clean it out" you don't put that much in, it's a death sentence.

as for the 2.8, upgrade to a 3.4. i put a buick 3800 in place of mine...it bolts up to the bellhousing just fine, but i had to make motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, radiator support, and do all of the wiring.

the biggest thing you need to remember is that around half of your problem is the shitty vac-actuated carbeurator...dump it when you dump the motor

get an edelbrock 4bbl intake with a holley 390cfm 4bbl carbeurator if you want to stay carb'd. otherwise, get a camaro 3.4 motor and wiring, and keep the camaro's fuel injection...you'll love it.
 
would the auto transmission that is bolted up to this 2.8L bolt up to the straight six 4.0L.??
And how hard would it be to just drop a straight six 4.0L into this jeep.??
 
The Bell Housing bolt pattern is the GM Small Cororate pattern the 2.8L 3.1L and 3.4L all use this. Also the 3800 series and the Caddy 4.1 series will work also.
 
techshooter02 said:
would the auto transmission that is bolted up to this 2.8L bolt up to the straight six 4.0L.??
And how hard would it be to just drop a straight six 4.0L into this jeep.??

I do not believe so - I think the AMC sixes have the AMC V8 bellhousing pattern.

Dropping a 242ci into a 1984-1986XJ/MJ will be a pain - the front clip was redesigned slightly for 1987 to accommodate the long engine. It would require at least clearancing at the radiator/front crossmember and massaging the firewall and transmission tunnel. It can be done - but it's a lot of work.
 
Why did the GM 2.8L V6 have so much problems? I had an 85 or 86 XJ with this motor and it had a rod knock so we sold it and bought a 90 4.0 straight six XJ for $1800.
 
The 2.8L uses a specifc bellhousiing to mate it with the chrylser tranny...

SO, ANY 2.8/3.1/3.4L engine will work so long as it has the starter pad on both sides of the block....
 
the 3800 is alot of work and not bolt in. i did it on my truck. i'm happy with it, but i've been building trucks and yanking motors/trannies and fabricating for 5+ years, taught by my father who's a diesel mechanic (tractor/trailers...he builds big rigs), and his grandfather who built tractors. so, i've had alot of help doing it.

i wouldn't advise you to do anything more than the 3.4 swap unless you've got quite a bit of help.
 
I was kicking it around about putting my durby car motor in the jeep, its a pontiac 307.
what do you think it would cost for a 2.8L rebuild kit vs. motor swap? to 3.4L
 
*sigh*

you're NOT getting the point.

rebuilding the 2.8 is a COMPLETE WASTE OF TIME as you won't net power gains, boring it is stupid since the oil passageways are all too small for any more friction, and the 2.8 is just plain junk all around.

so, it doesn't matter at all what the 2.8 rebuild kit costs.

anyways, 3.4 would be cheaper, IF you can find one.
 
Never, ever put anything besides oil in your engine.
Never...
... Ever.

With the oil already soaked with gas from the leaky carb, I'm afraid the tranny fluid finished it off. Likely bad main and rod bearings.

You could either tear into it and do a "Fluff and Buff" rebuild for a few hundred bucks, or get a 60deg V6 from the yard for cheap.

Engine swaps are popular and if you put in other than a 2.8L engine, remember that other 60 deg engines are internally balanced.

GM makes a crate motor to replace the 2.8L. its a 3.4L.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/HT-34-V6-Crate-Engine-S10-Truck-Repower-12363230-P25C2.aspx

Glad you got the carb working. Some people just don't understand them. After setting up a number of ThermoQuads, QuadraJets, and Carter BBDs, that carb is a peice of cake. If you have the chance to go FI reasonably (Yard parts), do it. The only carb I have seen that works well off-road is the little Hitachi that Suzuki put on their Samurai models.

If you have more Q's just PM me, I won't make fun.
 
if you want good power out of it bore it dont listen to these guys i drove mine on a rebuild hardcore for five years and just rebuilt it again fist time was 30 over and now 40 decent gas milage, and good power for what it is. mine will run with the 4.0l all day and most of the time come out on top. and yes its the wrist pin mine did the same thing but ive also seen it through more miles than any 4.0l . the clicking noise while turning it over is the P.O.S. chrysler starter relay you can get a ford solinoid and wire it in its a little tricky but you never have that problem again. If you need any more info you can PM me mine is an 86 and ive had it for a long time. Wouldnt trade it for anything.
 
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