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Coolant problem

B

BAMCHEROKEE88

NAXJA Member #976
Location
Lancaster,PA
I am having problems with the coolant bottle spraying out coolant after 10-15 mins of running. I took in to the shop and they said the radiater was clogged - ok $680 and a new rad. and it is still doing the same thing. They said a new thermostat would be the next thing to replace . I did this myself and she did it again. I then let it idle while remaining to watch it . What I noticed was the pressure bottle is filling all the way up then blowing out from under the cap. It seems to be filling faster then it empties, taking about 10-15 mins before its full and starts to leak. The bottle is new, the rad is new, and the thermostat is new. The water pump is about a 1 1/2 - 2 years old. What do I do next?
 
Check the bottle cap, if it was ever Over tightened it got damaged and will not be able to handle the pressure. I had this same problem after I stripped the cap, by over tightening it.
 
Is the bottle supposed to completely fill while running? There is not any air space left when it blows. I have never noticed it more than a little over half full when running. I have a spare bottle/cap and did replace the cap just in case I had a bad cap. I have also burped the system each time I have taken something apart.
 
Almost forgot this an '88 4.0l automatic if needed. Full stock.
 
Were your spare bottle and cap brand new? If not, they're suspect and notorious for deformation and failure. You can make a $5 Volvo 240 series coolant bottle and cap from your local pick-a-part work with minimal effort...it's a much stouter design.
 
Current bottle and cap in the heap are brand new (from Quadratec). The thermostat has the copper plug/valve in toward the engine block.
 
The bottle is NOT supposed to be full. Unless you or a previous owner converted it, you have a closed cooling system. The tank should have a small post inside, if you look down the opening. Then level should not go over the top of the post.

The space is for expansion of the coolant. If you have an leak anywhere, then it will not hold pressure and will eventually blow the top off, once your thermostat opens.

Be careful not to overtighten the cap.
 
Worst case, you have a head gasket leak.

I found that a worm gear hose clamp on the plastic bottle cap works wonders!!!!!!! Try it! Also in case it is a very small head gasket leak, get some brown fiber pellets, made by Bar's Leaks at an auto parts store, crush them and drop about 4 of them (crushed first) into the coolant bottle. That will slow and maybe seal the head gasket leak, if it is a leak.

Are you running 50/50 water/antifreeze????

What temperature is the coolant when the cap/bottle leaks?
 
Antifreeze is prediluted 50/50 . The temp of the coolant when she blows, I don`t know.
 
BAMCHEROKEE88 said:
Antifreeze is prediluted 50/50 . The temp of the coolant when she blows, I don`t know.
Click to expand...

GOOD!

Suggest you buy a $10 infrared gauge at Harbur Freight. Comes in real handy for this kind of diagnostics.

Try the hose clamp, it might solve your problem with the new bottle and clamp.
 
Saudade said:
The bottle is NOT supposed to be full. Unless you or a previous owner converted it, you have a closed cooling system. The tank should have a small post inside, if you look down the opening. Then level should not go over the top of the post.

The space is for expansion of the coolant. If you have an leak anywhere, then it will not hold pressure and will eventually blow the top off, once your thermostat opens.

Be careful not to overtighten the cap.
Click to expand...

Are we taking about a head gasket leak as Ecomike suggests or a leak elsewhere in the cooling system?
 
Well either as Mike says. If you have a blown headgasket, you might also see white smoke coming out your tailpipe. Check the oil on your dipstick too and see if there's any water drops on it. The oil may appear milky as well.
 
dizzymac said:
Sounds like it could be a blown head gasket. Did they really charge you $680 for a new radiator?
Click to expand...
Radiator ($325 for plastic/aluminum) + labor + tax = $680. They said one side of the radiator was significantly hotter than the other , indicating a blockage in the old one. They do know the vehicle as the last owner used the same shop. This is the second radiator they have installed in it in 4 - 4 1/2 years.
 
Last edited:
make sure the block is not air locked ,sounds like it is a closed sysstem,bleed the temp sensor on top of head in rear of head on intake and exhaust sideof head take sensor out and make sure coolant is coming out of port. also when filling system turn heater on fully to make sure the coolant is flowing thru heater system and make sure the thermostat is in correctly with little port is on top when installing in head.
 
Greg'88 said:
make sure the block is not air locked ,sounds like it is a closed sysstem,bleed the temp sensor on top of head in rear of head on intake and exhaust sideof head take sensor out and make sure coolant is coming out of port. also when filling system turn heater on fully to make sure the coolant is flowing thru heater system and make sure the thermostat is in correctly with little port is on top when installing in head.
Click to expand...

I have already done this , still no go. Tomorrow I will go out to look for some Fiber Pills for the heap.
 
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