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Cant remove ruel rail or injectors. !

Jarvis_Pants

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Doha Qatar
Ok so i have a 97 XJ automatic which has sum seriouse engine problems the mechanic says it needs to be torn all the way down to get to the problem. As i have sum spare time i thought i would give it a go. So with Haynes manual and tools at the ready i started tearing into the engine.

So heres where i hit a snag. Trying to remove the fuel rail the haynes manual says to unbolt from the heat sheild and rock gentle back and forth till it comes free. Well i started with gently then got a little pissed so started rocking quite forcefully then tryed prying it off still nothing. The manual shows pictures for a 96 so i dunno if thats the problem. Any help would be great thanks.

Secondly i need to disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line in the manual it talks about quick disconnects with tabs.... well this connection dosent have tabs its just a metal connector (if no one replys before i get home i will get pictures.) There seems to be sum play but i cant force the two apart. Any help would be a apreciated.
 
You need the correct tool to seperate the fuel line.All the mounting bolts that hold the fuel rail must be removed.IIRC it,s about 5 total,1 is hidden quite well.

Wayne
 
89xj said:
what problem does the engine have that it needs to be torn all the way down?

X2 that, we'd like to double check the diagnosis. After all, mechanics are in business to do all they can. We own ours, and budgets being what they are, tend to find out what's really going on before tearing into something.

Are there any tests to share with us, like no compression, no vacuum meter reading, antifreeze in the oil, rods sticking out of the block, any of that subtle stuff?
 
TiRod said:
X2 that, we'd like to double check the diagnosis. After all, mechanics are in business to do all they can. We own ours, and budgets being what they are, tend to find out what's really going on before tearing into something.

Are there any tests to share with us, like no compression, no vacuum meter reading, antifreeze in the oil, rods sticking out of the block, any of that subtle stuff?
Lol. Thanks for the skepticism. It was awhile ago so i cant remmber what he said exactly ill check tommoro but when i bought it the guy hadent done a service on it for about 100,000 k. There was no oil pressure and the noise from the engine was horific. Did i mention it didnt have a filter attached. :( GULP. But ill get exact details.

As for the heat sheild statement sorry i ment intake manifold.

Running to the local store to get the part you mentioned is gunna be a problem i live in the middle east. But at least im not gunna try pulling it apart anymore.

Thanks for the help.
 
Ok talked to him today he says one of the rods that attaches crank to pistons has gone. :bawl: well at least it gives me the excuse to do a full tear down. Plus if im going that far in might as well go for a low buck stroker too huh? :scottm:
 
I was going to rebuild the 4.0 out of my 89, pulled the head and I could see down the cylender wall to the rings. It still ran and did not smoke but it knocked like mad. did the math and came up with over 1k to get the motor bored, new pistons, rings, and all the misc stuff, and that was assuming I could reuse the crank and cam. I ended up just pulling the motor and getting one with 96k from a 98 and swaping all my electronics. ( I am now learning that the flexplate is part of the "all Electronics" but that is my problem)

anyway, over a thousand for machine work and rebuild gaskets or $350 for a long block and about $75 for intake, exhaust and a timing kit. I went the cheap way and would recomend the same to you. if the rod bearing is bad you are going to have to get the crank machined if not replaced and your bill will just keep climbing.

good luck and have fun doing the work. as I am working on this thing I am realizing that Jeep realy does have a plant in Hadies. but when I am done I will forget all of that and enjoy the truck for what it is.
 
Im lucky here in the middle east labour is dirt cheap as long as its not to specialised. I plan to swap the crank for the 4.2 so that wont need work then swap in new pistons etc which will cost money but as i said this is basicaly a junker anyway so at the moment got nothing to lose.

Ill keep people posted on how it goes.
 
Jarvis_Pants said:
Ok talked to him today he says one of the rods that attaches crank to pistons has gone. :bawl: well at least it gives me the excuse to do a full tear down. Plus if im going that far in might as well go for a low buck stroker too huh? :scottm:

Hm. Typically, when you manage to "fail" a connecting rod (that's what the part is called,) it's pretty drastic. Something like the rod trying to leave the engine by way of the side of the engine block comes to mind - last time I broke a rod, I ended up with a hole in the side of the engine block I could put my fist through.

It seems more likely that you've failed a connecting rod bearing - which you can replace, and you don't necessarily have to tear the engine all the way down to get to - just take off the oil sump. You should be able to do a full set of connecting rod bearings in a few hours, or rod + main bearings in about a day, working in your own garage and not having to pull the engine out of the vehicle (I replaced a crankshaft and #6 rod, but that did require removing the cylinder head as well. I did not remove the block for that job.)

Haynes isn't a great manual for these trucks - have you something better available? I know that the Chilton's manual is an improvement (I don't know if it's available to you over there,) and that our local libraries usually have Mitchell and Motor manuals (aftermarket professional stuff - not quite the factory manual, but pretty close) available for reference and copying. Those are avenues you may want to check.

Again, you do not have to disassemble the top end of the engine to service bottom-end bearings. And, it's fairly likely that you've lost a connecting rod bearing vice an actual connecting rod, which can save you some bucks (as the wrist pin is pressed in, which requires that a shop press it out of the old rod, and press it in to the new rod. Over here, it's about twenty bucks to do the job - I don't know what that will work out to for you.)
 
Thanks for the advice im having way to much fun pulling this thing apart to stop just cos theres an easyer way lol.

Dont worry about my wasted time this engine is a MESS it needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Some parts have to be replaced as well. And i have never seen oil like this before its like syrup with sand in it.

FINALY got the fuel rail off then intake manifold came quickly. Headers are hanging free also just need to disconnect from exasaust then thats gone too. :D Got the cylinder cover off and started taking the rockers out and cleaned. Also removed all the distributer side wires (made sure i marked them all lol.)
 
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