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Oil Pressure ?

J

jeepsrock

NAXJA Forum User
Location
LA California
Over the weekend i gave my XJ an oil change, like i have in the past and for some reason i have noticed a change with my oil pressure.
I have always used Castrol 10w-30 oil and did so this time also, the only different component was the oil filter. In the past i have used Purolator brand filters while this time i used a Napa branded filter.
What i am experiencing is a few odd things that caught my attention as being a bit different , they may be normal but i want your opinions.
The first thing is there is a few second lag after the engine starts until my oil pressure needle responds. The second thing is my oil pressure after cold start is really high, almost at the top, i would say 75PSI and at highway speeds its between 40-70psi. At warm idle it plays between 20-30PSI.

Let me know.

Thanks,
Pete

:patriot:
 
I get different oil pressure readings depending on what filter I use. I've only used Mobile 1 and Fram filters and I definetely notice a difference between the two. I'm sure of the quality of the Napa filter. I usually have a second delay before my needle responds on start up.
 
i agree, WIX is good stuff, not all fancy schmancy but, the quality is deffinatly there.

hay lookie there. it took me exactly a year to get 200posts. i spend too much time wheelin i guess. from here on my soap box, back to you in the studio.
 
Ok, so we have established napa/wix filters are good.

Additionally, I have verified the wires and used contact cleaner to clean the connectors, still no change.

Is what i am experiencing not normal ? Any thoughts ?

Pete
 
Are you using the Napa Gold filter or one of their lesser ones? There internals are a little different, although still good filters.
 
To 89Daytona, i think i am using the Napa Select filter, which is their cheap filter. I bought it because it said Wix on the back side of it.

I think maybe i should replace that sensor ..

User Weirdo, thanks for your input..I am hoping that its normal.

Pete
 
Even the cheap filters arent that much different from the high end ones.

The filter media is a little different, but the most of the internals are the same....
 
The Napa gold filter uses a silicon anti-drain back valve, while the proselect has a nitrile rubber anti-drain back valve.
 
I won't use anything but K & N oil filters now.

If it is acting differently, then yes, change the filter, try a different brand even. IF three different brand filters all do the same new weird thing, then change the oil pressure sensor. If that does not get it back to how it use to perform, I would get worried.

I say change the filter, becuase the anti drain back valve and / or, if it has one, the bypass valve in the filter could be bad, or flakey.

Are you sure it's the same oil you used before. The oils have changed from API SL to API SM recently.
 
The oil for the past 8yrs i have owned the jeep has always been Castrol or Valvoline 10w-30.
The weird thing is some say what i am experiencing is normal others say something is wrong and i should worry about it. What is normal, or rather what part of my description is not within the norm.

Thanks,
Pete
 
89Daytona said:
The Napa gold filter uses a silicon anti-drain back valve, while the proselect has a nitrile rubber anti-drain back valve.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is true!

Also the proselect filter media isn;t quite as fine as the gold version.

I talked with the WIX rep when he was in our store. So this is first hand knowledge.
 
I used a teflon product to increase my oil pressure and 80 pounds is common on start up, winter or summer. 20-30 is ok warm, if you don't hear a tappet ticking, it's in good shape. Many engines commonly run that, Chevys are even known to go to 8-12 pounds at idle with no problems. It depends on the oil viscosity and engine design. The wide variety of actual readings in the field has to do with viscosity, mileage, additives, and the accuracy of the oil pressure sender and gauge. It's not a precise system, and apparently doesn't need to be - except for the dreaded "0" reading, which gets our attention real quick.

In your case I'd say the pressure rating of the bypass spring in the filter is just a little higher than what you had before - or you are paying more attention to the gauge than you have. Happens all the time.
 
It finally registered with me, that the antidrain back valve in your current filter is most probably defective, leaking. :doh:It is supposed to keep the oil filter full all the time. When it fails, even new out of the box they can be bad, it leaks the oil back into the oil pan when the engine is off. So you are not getting oil in the bearings on start up those first few seconds while the oil pump refils the filter, and builds pressure up, which is why there is no pressure on the gauge the first few seconds!:doh:

CHANGE THE OIL FILTER!!!!!!hasta

It also sounds like there is no pressure drop through the oil filter media in your new filter, indicating that the filter media may have a huge hole in it as well.

So, CHANGE THE OIL FILTER!!!!!!:lecture:


Other possibilities, are they put the wrong oil in the bottles, like a higher viscosity oil, also possible the gauge is acting up, but my money is on a bad filter with a busted filter media, hole, and a leaking antidrain back valve.
 
This morning i replaced the oil pressure sensor from one from Napa and put in a new filter.
Hopefully this takes care of anything there might exist..We will see..Also i think i need to try to stop focusing on the gauge..lol

Thanks
Peter
 
I am now also having oil pressure issues. I've started to notice that my oil pressure once the engine is up to temp starts to drop and stays around 20-30 psi at cruisin' speed, but will drop to almost zero at stop and idle. When warming up it will start at 40 and then just progressively drop as the motor warms up. I have to take it out of gear and raise the idle to just keep the pressue up if I've been driving around for awhile. Is this a sign that my oil puimp is failing? Should I try one to the snake oil's first? Oil pressure sending unit? Granted the motor has almost 200K on it, but the oil is changed regularly, this has just riased it ugly head in the past few weeks. TIA
 
CartsXJ said:
I am now also having oil pressure issues. I've started to notice that my oil pressure once the engine is up to temp starts to drop and stays around 20-30 psi at cruisin' speed, but will drop to almost zero at stop and idle. When warming up it will start at 40 and then just progressively drop as the motor warms up. I have to take it out of gear and raise the idle to just keep the pressue up if I've been driving around for awhile. Is this a sign that my oil puimp is failing? Should I try one to the snake oil's first? Oil pressure sending unit? Granted the motor has almost 200K on it, but the oil is changed regularly, this has just riased it ugly head in the past few weeks. TIA
Click to expand...

change the sending unit and filter an see if that helps.

if the oil pump was going and you have zero pressure, the valve train would most likely rattle quite a bit.
 
The pump isn't necessarily bad - it's more likely the wider bearing clearances on a 200k motor just leak more oil at idle. The pump isn't turning at optimum speed idling (nothing is, idling is a complete waste of fuel except for the hassle of restarting at every light - a future gas saving measure to come.)

The teflon snake oil worked for me, others may chime in with their favorites. Honestly, with 200k, you've got 2-3 years left at average yearly mileage, it's probably time to start budgeting for a rebuild.

Of course, at $4 a gallon, a gas intensive performance built stroker may not rise to the top of your list.
 
TiRod said:
The pump isn't necessarily bad - it's more likely the wider bearing clearances on a 200k motor just leak more oil at idle. The pump isn't turning at optimum speed idling (nothing is, idling is a complete waste of fuel except for the hassle of restarting at every light - a future gas saving measure to come.)

The teflon snake oil worked for me, others may chime in with their favorites. Honestly, with 200k, you've got 2-3 years left at average yearly mileage, it's probably time to start budgeting for a rebuild.

Of course, at $4 a gallon, a gas intensive performance built stroker may not rise to the top of your list.
Click to expand...

Thats just it. This engine still pulls 17 city and ~20 highway.....great gas mileage for throwing a brick on 35's thru the air. I am already planning a stroker rebuild this fall, and just wanted to know what the best way of attacking this issue would be. I guess I'll try a bottle and see what happens, can't hurt right?
 
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