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Regearing vs. Going Stock

Jester99

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chattanooga, Tn
Damnit it sucks being bi-polar, I can never make up my mind...I'm trying to figure out if it is going to end up costing me more to go back to stock than it would to regear. I have a 3" OME lift with 31's. If I regear what will give me the best gas mileage, 3.73 or 4.10s?
 
Back to stock?Whaaat?Is that one of your options?
Do what I do because I'm poor:Get your self stock size tires on stock rims and use them for DD.Then slap on the offroad tires before you go wheelin'.My "street" tires only cost me $120(bfg a/t's on stock canyon alloys)
Your gearing/tire size would be stock for the best mpg's for DD duty.
 
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It's probably too close to call. If you go offroad at all - go with 4.10's; they will put you back to stock gearing ratio. If you are street only, 3.73 may be the way to go.

What tranny do you have - auto or manual?
 
99 Automatic. Getting another set of tires is not an option. That would be a pain in the ass to change everytime and I can't even afford a new set of tires. Not to mention it looks stupid as hell, no offense. I'm 90% on-road, 10% off-road.
 
find some stock axles with 4.10
pull them yourself, buy'em and talk to wrecker to see if you can swap'em and only pay a smaller fee. never know.
 
Put in the 4.10's. I just installed this setup with for a buddy on 31's and he is VERY happy. With the auto and 31's, you will actually improve your mileage, as your vehicle won't be lugging off the line and up hills. The OD ratio will never wind the engine with 4.10's, even at freeway speeds. You're talking about $450 tops for gears and master kits, $300 if you can get a deal. Maybe even less if you keep an eye on E-Bay.

Good luck!
 
Jester99 said:
and I can't even afford a new set of tires.

Welp you're gonna shit your pants when it's time to pay for those gears/install kits/fluids and or labor!!!
I guess I must look real funny rolling around on stock size tires with a 5.5" lift.....I don't care what they think,gas is at $4 gallon and my wallet's happy I don't DD my 34" swampers.
 
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i'm reagearing tomorrow. theres a guy thats selling a set of axles in the S.E. Chapter. d30 and c8.25 with 4.10s. that could be a cheap solution. if he still has them.
 
Gears....hah it just hit me that's why I cant go faster than 30mph up my hill (metal to metal pedal) but my van can go 50mph easy.
 
outlander said:
Welp you're gonna shit your pants when it's time to pay for those gears/install kits/fluids and or labor!!!
I guess I must look real funny rolling around on stock size tires with a 5.5" lift.....I don't care what they think,gas is at $4 gallon and my wallet's happy I don't DD my 34" swampers.

X2!!!!! i need another DD my wallet hates me!
 
I'm wondering the same thing. I have 32's and I dunno whether to just stay on my 3.55's or get 4.10/4.56's. The cost is so high because I'd like to get a no-slip for the rear as well, but parts alone is almost a grand. I get decent mileage as it is, but the power is really lacking. I might just ditch the locker idea and get that later.
 
If you're gonna open her up, you might as well do the locker @ the same time as the gears--it'll save you labor money if you aren't doing it yourself. Otherwise a cheaper option would be to find an axle from a 4-banger that already has the 4.10s(or the rare 4.56 from an auto 4-banger).
 
kj139 said:
Put in the 4.10's. I just installed this setup with for a buddy on 31's and he is VERY happy. With the auto and 31's, you will actually improve your mileage, as your vehicle won't be lugging off the line and up hills. The OD ratio will never wind the engine with 4.10's, even at freeway speeds. You're talking about $450 tops for gears and master kits, $300 if you can get a deal. Maybe even less if you keep an eye on E-Bay. Good luck!

X2. 91 MJ, 4.6 Hesco stroker, AW4. Swapped to 4.10s from 3.55s (installed the correct speedo gear too), and mileage went up from 17 hwy to 20 hwy. No change for city driving. RPM while cruising at 70 now reads 2500 w. O/D kicked in; before the RPM at the same speed was 2200. I think the 2400-2600 RPM powerband is the most economical for these engines, plus no more lugging up long grades which kills mileage. 4.10s w. 31" tires and the AW4 is a great all-around combination IMHO.
 
I got lucky and found some 4.10 axles with extras(paid $1000 for a D30 with 4.10, Lockright, Rockcrusher cover, tube seals, and ZJ steering. The 8.25 with 4.10, and had disc brakes. This also gave me spare shafts all the way around, along with front hubs/rotors) worth every penny. I couldnt deal with 31's and 3.55's both for drivability, and MPG. I went from about 12.5 city to nearly 15, freeway went from 17 to 20+. That equates to at least 10 bucks a week in gas savings, so another 6 months or so and the swap is paid for.
 
outlander said:
Back to stock?Whaaat?Is that one of your options?
Do what I do because I'm poor:Get your self stock size tires on stock rims and use them for DD.Then slap on the offroad tires before you go wheelin'.My "street" tires only cost me $120(bfg a/t's on stock canyon alloys)
Your gearing/tire size would be stock for the best mpg's for DD duty.

yea but if he does that he looses the everyday badass factor :)
 
sunburned said:
I'm wondering the same thing. I have 32's and I dunno whether to just stay on my 3.55's or get 4.10/4.56's. The cost is so high because I'd like to get a no-slip for the rear as well, but parts alone is almost a grand. I get decent mileage as it is, but the power is really lacking. I might just ditch the locker idea and get that later.

I couldn't afford the locker. I just had the 4:56's installed yesterday. I am planning on getting the PowerTrax no-slip locker for the C8.25. I need to double check, but from what I have read it can be installed in a couple of hours, and WITHOUT having to touch the ring and pinion setup.

Gas mileage is already looking much better.
 
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