Euclid
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, TX
How do I keep my axle from spinning while I'm trying to take off a wheel bearing/hub nut? :twak:
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Wheel Hub Nut
- Thread starter Euclid
- Start date
jkmhb
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntington Beach, CA
Loosten it with the car on the ground with the wheel still on - would be the easiest.
Or, someone can hold their foot on the brake.
Or, someone can hold their foot on the brake.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
I just jam a thick flat-head into where the u-joint sits on the shaft. The screwdriver usually hits one of the Cs and stops the shaft from rotating.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I turn on the locker and put it in four wheel drive
Before I had that option, I did the screwdriver at the u-joint thing too.
Before I had that option, I did the screwdriver at the u-joint thing too.
- Location
- Up s*&^ creek with a paddle!
I usually just crack it loose when the tire is still on (but my rims let me have access to it) if yours doesn't I stick a wrench in the u-joint and it hits the C and keeps it from spinning (forgot to crack it when the tire was on lol)
Euclid
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, TX
Since I don't have an impact I figured a prybar would give too my play to break that nut. I ended up taking the wheel off/removing the center cap and putting the wheel back on. Came off like the breeze.
The hub on the other hand... had to use a 3-jaw puller to get it off and that just ended up separating the 2 pieces of the hub. The I beat the piece with the 3 boltholes in it with a BFM. Wouldn't budge. I finally hit it enough to bend it out of round and I had to put the holts back in (backwards) and used them to press it off of the axletube.
Woo!
The hub on the other hand... had to use a 3-jaw puller to get it off and that just ended up separating the 2 pieces of the hub. The I beat the piece with the 3 boltholes in it with a BFM. Wouldn't budge. I finally hit it enough to bend it out of round and I had to put the holts back in (backwards) and used them to press it off of the axletube.
Woo!
snow580
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Arlington,Mn.
Euclid said:
I would say that the next time you do this is you should leave the axlenut tight and get the hub broke loose from the knuckle first that way your hub won't seperate again.
Bouncy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flat Rock, MI
better answer to the hub.
Take bolts half way out. Beat the snot out of the bolts...replace bolts later.
After hub is out, wire brush inside of knuckle and outside of bearing. Grease it well with antiseize or bearing grease. Never had an issue after the first time.
Take bolts half way out. Beat the snot out of the bolts...replace bolts later.
After hub is out, wire brush inside of knuckle and outside of bearing. Grease it well with antiseize or bearing grease. Never had an issue after the first time.
sidriptide
nobody of any consequence
- Location
- western massachusetts
Bouncy said:
take it one step farther and get a set of "sacrificial" hex-head bolts that are 2" longer and thread them in and beat on them. the hex wont mis-shape so much. using the factory bolts also can lead to damaging the threads in the hub because you cant use all of the threads when you back the bolts out.. i keep a set of these longer bolts in the tool bag for trail repairs.
Euclid
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, TX
These hubs are both junk and I've got replacements, it's kind of fun to demolish them.
I'm done with the passenger side, which was BAD. The driver's side only has a little play, I might do it today, maybe tomorrow, we'll see.
I'm done with the passenger side, which was BAD. The driver's side only has a little play, I might do it today, maybe tomorrow, we'll see.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I've learned over the last couple years its not a really bad idea to keep one of your old hubs around.
Breaking one really is a show stopper. Its one of the few spares I still carry on the trail
(hub, 2 stubs, 1 1310, 1 pair 1310 u-bolts, 2 d44 u-bolts, 1 set tie rod ends, 1 set drag link ends, misc nuts and bolts, very basic fluids)
Breaking one really is a show stopper. Its one of the few spares I still carry on the trail
(hub, 2 stubs, 1 1310, 1 pair 1310 u-bolts, 2 d44 u-bolts, 1 set tie rod ends, 1 set drag link ends, misc nuts and bolts, very basic fluids)
Euclid
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, TX
The driver's side has maybe 1/16th of an inch play when I wiggle it. Just enough to feel the 'shake'. I went ahead and put off replacing it just yet.
Should I throw the new one on or just wait until this one goes?
Should I throw the new one on or just wait until this one goes?
tbburg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Scottsdale AZ
Change it out and save the old one for a trail spare. Put antiseize on everything except the brake pads when you re-assemble it.
whatevah
It's Yellah!
- Location
- Wilmington, DE
instead of a screwdriver, I used a cheapie rachet and jammed the handle in with the ujoint. for removing the hub, I grabbed an old 1310 ujoint left over from rebuilding a driveshaft and stuck it between the knuckle/axle tube and the yoke on the axle shaft and turned the steering wheel. the axle stub shaft was seized to the hub, so I put the nut back on and smacked it a couple times with a hammer and it was free. Antisieze is definately your friend, I'm a new convert.
for removing the hub, I grabbed an old 1310 ujoint left over from rebuilding a driveshaft and stuck it between the knuckle/axle tube and the yoke on the axle shaft and turned the steering wheel. the axle stub shaft was seized to the hub, so I put the nut back on and smacked it a couple times with a hammer and it was free. Antisieze is definately your friend, I'm a new convert. 
