Engine quit while driving....

Driving on I-75 and all of a sudden the engine started to turn off and back on. Did this about 4 time then quit running all together. Pulled off onto the shoulder and had about 1/4 tank but thought the guage stopped working and ran out of gas.

Put in 2 gallon and still nothing. The engine turns over but just doesn't want to start. Not sure if it's a sensor or maybe the fuel pump stopped working. What's the best way to check the fuel pump? Turn the key and try to hear it? It makes a sound for about 2 seconds..hope it's the pump turning on..

Could you guys recommend trouble shooting steps? Has this happen to any of you before? I just don't want to start looking in the wrong places. Maybe it's the crank sensor, wish I has someone close who I could swap with.

Any tips would be great...

Thanks..
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The year would have been helpful.

You should hear the pump prime when the key is intially turned to start, then when the engine is cranking (or running) it should run continously.

But for pressure, theres a little scrachder valve at the rear of the fuel rail (where the injectors attach) Remove the little cover and with the key or (or cranking) depress the valve and fuel should squirt out (Engine cold, have a rag handy and no smoking)

The CPS is a common failure, you could also try to disconnect and reconnect it.

Do you know how to check for spark? Get a plug and attach it to a wire, hold the threads of it up against a good ground and crank and look for spark (repeat for all other cylinders, but if you have one or two you probably have all six)

The injectors can be tested with a 12v bulb. They should pulse.

All you need is spark, compression, fuel, and timing. And air.

Edit: If you have starting fluid, spray some in the intake while the engine is cranking. If it starts, it means you have spark but no fuel.

If you died while moving at that speed on the interstate I would have to point to the alternator. I don't know just any Idea though

...So how does the alternator interact with the ECM? Even if he did totally lose charge (abnormal voltmeter reading or light would have indicated this) he still would have gone for awhile until the battery died and it petered out.

I have had my engine kinda cut out/ turn off while driving on the interstate. It turned out to be the wiring from the O2 sensor just after the cat shorting out.

Year is 99... Gotta get a sig going...

i have the same problem i replaced coil coil pick up cps and i still have no spark im pissed

:kissyou: :skull1: :skull1:

terryxj said:

i have the same problem i replaced coil coil pick up cps and i still have no spark im pissed

Click to expand...

89CherokeePioneer said:

...So how does the alternator interact with the ECM? Even if he did totally lose charge (abnormal voltmeter reading or light would have indicated this) he still would have gone for awhile until the battery died and it petered out.

Click to expand...

I was riding down the interstate when my alternator went out. I do remember the lights flickering and then lost the radio then she just tuckered on out. And would not restart. Had to get it towed to a shop. (before I learned what wrenches are). But you are right he would have seen some sort of indication on a 99.

sounds like the same thing going on with my 98 sport ..
but I'm getting fuel and spark.. seems like just my injectors are not pulsing...
if i shoot some starting fluid in it fires up and runs fine as long as i keep shooting a little fluid in ..but dies when i stop .. and i have a fuel pressure Gauge on it and it holds 45psi at the rail...

im still working on mine.. plan to replace the CPS and see where to go after that..

cps is common to give trouble on 4.0s. check cps wiring for brittle spots where heat has damaged it.

:spam:

thecruger said:

sounds like the same thing going on with my 98 sport ..
but I'm getting fuel and spark.. seems like just my injectors are not pulsing...
if i shoot some starting fluid in it fires up and runs fine as long as i keep shooting a little fluid in ..but dies when i stop .. and i have a fuel pressure Gauge on it and it holds 45psi at the rail...

im still working on mine.. plan to replace the CPS and see where to go after that..

Click to expand...

That would be a waste of money. If you have no CPS then no spark or fuel, or the pump priming.

Did you pull the harness off and use a test light to see that they pulse? An injector driver in the ECM could be bad, or there could be a bad connection at some point. Would not be a bad idea to do continuty tests between the ECM harness and the injector harnesses.

Am I the only one who tests before I start tossing parts at it? I don't mean to be harsh about it, but..

Now is when I've had time to looking into it further. I removed the 3rd spark plug and had someone turn the engine. The weird thing is that with the 5 attempts only once did I get spark for just a moment. I continue to have someone turn the engine and no spark. I know, sounds crazy.


I removed the crank position sensor and it did not have any shaving on it, no dirty. Not sure if there is a way to test it.


When the key is in the ON position the fuel pump can be heard for a few seconds and there is fuel at the rail when turning the engine.


Since I don't have a scanner, I don't think I could continue troubleshooting any more.

Thanks to everyone for you tips and advise...

The problems was the coil, it's running like a champ...

The spark is still orange but every stong, do I still have a problem? From what I understood, it should be blue...

Will be changing the cap, rotor, plugs and wires next week..

Your thoughts?

Thanks again, Joe

Hope your fix lasts. I actually have never heard of an Orange spark. Keep us updated on it.