Gorilla Glue floorpan patches

I wanted to cover up some of the unused body plugs and I did not want to weld down patches and jam in seam sealer. Given that these are not structural patches, I thought I could kill two birds with one stone by using Gorilla Glue to hold down sheet metal. This works because Gorilla Glue expands into a foam when it dries, so it not only secures the patch but also provides it's own seam sealer.

Glue around the outside of the hole and around the outside of the patch, then position and wait. A few hours later it will look like this (top and bottom):





It has to be sanded and primed on top (you can see a smaller painted patch below the new one in the top picture) and undercoated on the bottom in order to keep moisture out of the foam, but otherwise it works easy. It's not yet know how it will work over the long-term, obviously.

I also used Gorilla Glue on a couple of small pin-hole rust spots, just put a drop on the hole and overnight it will expand through the hole.

man thats a great idea, i have some gorilla glue here and never thought of using it to cover holes. I have a rig where the previous owner cut the fenders to high and have a gap between sheetmetal on the rear. I used caulk but that glue would of been good to.

I cant believe with over 400 views no one else said it was a good idea. eace:

well I was gonna say good idea, but I don't have any gorilla glue and i love my welder far to much to not use it every time I can.

I looked up temperature the range of that glue.
Works well as a body adhesive, but should be kept away from the exhaust and under the hood.

In short, you really don't want to burn this stuff!
Gives off poisonous fumes when it burns

"Avoid prolonged heating above 160°C/320°F"

"In case of fire, formation of carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxide,
isocyanate vapour, and traces of hydrogen cyanide is possible."

Why not just use some JB weld? After you are done patching, just treat the area to prevent future rust.

Epoxy would work fine but it won't expand and it's a lot harder to remove if you need to get the patch off. I've cut the GG patches out with a knife and replaced them.

Ah I see. I figured whenever I got around to fixing my rust holes in my floor pans, I'd use some JB Weld.

JB weld is rated up to 500º F. That's almost within safe territory.

I've been looking at epoxies too, got rust holes above my exhaust . Welding would require stripping the undercoating off over a fairly large section. That's a restoration, too much for a beater.

Yes, epoxy is a bear to remove. Fouls any sanding disc, takes methyl ethyl ketone or methylene chloride to dissolve it. And gives off horrid weld fumes.

92DripCherokee said:

Yes, epoxy is a bear to remove. Fouls any sanding disc, takes methyl ethyl ketone or methylene chloride to dissolve it. And gives off horrid weld fumes.

Click to expand...

Who doesn't like a little methyl ethyl death?