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deep water fording kit!!!

O

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
Got bored and snapped a few pics of my extended vents and snorkle:
Here you can see the front of the airbox that I sealed up with silicone with the factory vacuum operated heat riser door:



the fitting that goes into the cowl.It sits up off the the floor of the cowl and is angled down:


hose attatched:



vent lines extended and ran into airbox using air compressor quick connect fittings threaded into the airbox lid:



distributor vent that runs over to the airbox:



a pic of some of the vacuum line y connectors I used to run the lines to the airbox.To the left you can see my spare starter mounted to the firewall:



Future plans are to find a top hat intake like found on humvee's and mount it ontop of the cowl.
welp thats it...let me know if you have any questions.....
 
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Thanks!!!
It works great too.....sitting on 34" swampers and a 5.5" lift my fording depth is pretty damn good.It'll be even better with the top hat.The last vent I need to run into the airbox is the power steering vent.Oh and I need to get two 12v marine sump pumps to mount inside under the front seats to pump h2o out of the cab.They'll be wired into a toggle switch and when the water level starts to rise in the floorboards I'll flick the switch so my interior/computer/feet stay dry!!!
Interior is herculined.....
 
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outlander said:
Got bored and snapped a few pics of my extended vents and snorkle:



the fitting that goes into the cowl.It sits up off the the floor of the cowl and is angled down:
Click to expand...

What did you use here to go through your firewall into the cowl area?






outlander said:
distributor vent that runs over to the airbox:
Click to expand...

Is that your starter in the upper left hand corner of the pic? What is that used for? Can't be for starting the engine.
 
hot_rod_hooligans said:
This may sound like a stupid question, but what's the purpose of the vents for the air box?
Click to expand...
he is running the vents for everything else to the airbox.
 
The msd wires are from my brothers mustang.....all the cool kids are running them backwards,it's the new hotness!!!

The fitting that goes into the cowl is an rv sewer hose fitting that allows you to connect two lengths of hose together.All the fittings and the rv sewer hose came from walmart in the isle that has trailer lights and such in it.

The starter is a spare.I mounted it in the engine compartment to save space in the spares box in the cargo area.

front/rear axle vent lines go into the airbox along with dist,tranny,transfer case, and power steering(soon)
 
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DirtyMJ said:
So, will the engine continue to run while submerged up to the valve cover or so?
Click to expand...


Hopefully!!!:looney:
I need to finish little details such as sealing a few more electrical connectors and adding a vent to the dipstick before I feel confident enough to test it with the motor submerged.The dual fans are wired to a cutoff toggle for the deep aswell.....
Evident in one of the pics I need to replace the oil fill cap too....the gasket is shot.
If anyone has any bright ideas on waterproofing the tps,I'm all ears.
 
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Don't know if I would want a negative pressure to my breathers especially the distributer cap.Its such a small area you are surely creating a negative pressure there.You are creating a situation that is going to want to suck water into those places.

I have seen people put positive pressure to the breathers which would help keep water out.
 
The dist cap is sealed to the dist with silicone.....
I see where you're comming from.I've had the vents ran into the airbox for about 4months now without any ill effects.....no oil in the airbox or blown seals in the axles and such.I feel like there is enough air volume inside the diff,tranny,t-case housings to offset any potential side affects of having the vents ran into the airbox.....Even if it causes the vents to suck water past the seals the fluids will be changed after being submerged.

Maybe some day when I get bored enough I'll fab up a clear hose with a little ball inside it and hook it up to the airbox to see how much draw it actually creates......
 
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I bet its very little. If it pulled very hard the stock airbox to throttle body hose would collapse flat. It would only pull hard on the vents if the sewer hose is a restriction...which is a possibility. I am curious as to if that hose is sucked up tight when your wide open.

Nice Mod, need to do it to mine. Water already gave me a reason to build a stroker, don't need it again :D.
 
This is a pm I received a little while ago,I'll post the reply here for anyone else thats interested:

I am interested in how you mounted your starter to the firewall as well as the spacers you put between the hood and the hood hinges. Do you notice if the gap at the back, created by the spacer I suppose, has improved engine compartment temp? I am thinking about installing the hood vents, however if your spacer trick works I might try that over cutting into my hood. Could you snap me a photo of the hood closed so I can see how much of a gap is up top? Also, does the rain hit any vital operating parts with the gap at the back? Did you have any clearance issues when you installed the spacers? Thank you for your response, and again great job.


Thanks.
I mounted the starter to the firewall with a hose clamp....I drilled a hole in the clamp and used a self tapper to hold it to the firewall.
I havent noticed rain being an issue with the hood spacers nor did I have any clearance issues.I'll be honest and say that while I didn't notice a drastic increase in cooling they seem to help.I can see heat escaping from the back of the hood on a slow crawl or while sitting at a stop light.
 
BlueCuda said:
I bet its very little. If it pulled very hard the stock airbox to throttle body hose would collapse flat. It would only pull hard on the vents if the sewer hose is a restriction...which is a possibility. I am curious as to if that hose is sucked up tight when your wide open.

Nice Mod, need to do it to mine. Water already gave me a reason to build a stroker, don't need it again :D.
Click to expand...

nah the rv sewer hose has steel spiraling through it...it would take alot of pooh...or ummm vacuum for it to collapse
 
outlander said:
front/rear axle vent lines go into the airbox along with dist,tranny,transfer case, and power steering(soon)
Click to expand...
I have had gear lube pumping out of an axle vent before. I wouldn't vent anything that contains a fluid into my airbox in case the fluid finds it's way into the engine. Probably more of a potential problem if you have ARB lockers.

Nice use of the cowl vent, well done.
 
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