Brake drum wont go on after brake job

To begin with, star wheel is loose...

I just did my brakes (one side so far) and the drum wont fit back on. The adjuster is loose, theres play in it between the shoes so it is not expanding them. All the springs are on and it seems pretty solid. If I grab hold of the shoes on both sides there is a little bit of movement, I can slide the whole thing a little bit. But I can't push the shoes together anymore, so I dont know how to make it "smaller" so the drum will fit over?

Does it matter what order it was reassembled? That would be the only thing I can think of. I followed a few different write-ups and the procedure order varied. The completed assembly looks exactly like the other side.

One more thing, I had my brake line disconnected (axle swap) so when I push the brake pedal, nothing happens (except sucking noise at master cylinder) since I need to bleed the brakes too. Too much air in the lines now I guess?

Did you put the longer shoes towards the rear of the vehicle?

Yes, there is a difference between the shoes towards the front of the vehicle vs. the ones to the rear.

Only thing I can think of that wouldn't allow the drum to go back on.

X2 Blaine....don't be pushing the pedal all the way to the floor or you could end up replacing the MC too. Bleed the brakes, once you get the drums on, and you should be good to go. Make sure you do not run the MC dry,you'll have to bench bleed it if you do, can be done on the vehicle , but just better to make sure its full.

Yeah the longer shoes are to the rear. I'm actually thinking its the parking brake now, Ive only done one side. On the other side, with the original brakes, the parking brake cable is not connected (this is for an axle swap) and I can put the drum back on that side.

I didnt mess with the parking brake cable adjustment, I just hooked it in to the new shoe. I guess I could try lessening the tension? Not sure that theres a difference with the 8.25 (original was d35) here though. Any other way to "let off" the parking brake tension? Shouldnt it self adjust, more or less?

MC isnt dry, still shows just a little under the line. I didnt lose a lot of fluid, the lines were only disconnected for the axle swap, its back on now.

could be the parking brake actuator arm holding the shoes apart.Had that happen with the dana 35 that used to be under my 89.Turned out that the parking brake cable was siezed up and the actuator arm was stuck in the "e-brake on" position.
Un hook your ebrake cable and see if that will allow you to get the drum on..

Measure the distance between the shoes on both sides of the axle, since you can get the drum back on one side and not the other.

Could be your parking brake cables are seized up

double check that you didn't buy 10" shoes for a 9" brake system....

I know alot of the 8.25" rears used the 9" drum.

If you checked everything that folks said above, I know back in the day we used to "arc" the linings. The linings were put on a brake machine with an arm that pivoted the brake shoe in a semi-circle and the lining's high spots were ground down so they would conform to the brake drum. Don't know if this is done anymore. If everything above is not the issue, ensure the hydraulic cylinder isn't stuck. If no go, then you might want to return them for another brand. I've had really good luck with Raybestos over the years.