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Removing the bolt & front leaf spring bushing

RAVC1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
I need a non-destructive method for removing the bolt that secures the leaf spring in its front mount. This bolt passes through the large diameter rubber bushing that has a steel sleeve liner. The steel sleeve that lines the rubber bushing bonds to the bolt over time making it difficult or impossible to withdraw the bolt directly. I'm trying to figure out how to free the bolt from the steel sleeve as this will make this chore much easier.

We do have access to the end of the bolt that extends into the unibody frame member. This allows brief periods of heating the threaded tip of the bolt with a torch but the fuel lines are close to the drivers side mount location. However, if the threads are dirty the heat will melt any of these deposits and effectively reduce our ability to withdraw the bolt. I have not observed that heating the bolt in this manner frees it from the bushing inner sleeve anyway.


My Current Destructive Method - This has been fairly quick in the past but I do not like it.

Heat the bolt until you can rotate it. Soak the threads with penetrating fluid to retain the motion the torch gives you. Use my Sawzall to cut the bolt into three pieces:

1) Between the exterior frame mount and the bushing.

2) Between the interior frame mount and the unibody channel.

If you make sure you can easily rotate the bolt before you cut it it has been easy (in the past) for me to remove the end of the bolt threaded into the unibody nut. This is the benefit provided by the penetrating fluid.


If you withdraw the bolt without freeing it from the bushing inner sleeve you bend the exterior frame bracket, because the bushing moves with the bolt.

Please advise.

Thanks,

Rick
 
If the bolt is that badly rusted to the sleeve, I don't think there is a way to remove it without destroying the bolt. Besides, if it's rusty at all, except for some surface rust, IMO, it should be replaced anyway.
 
I had to cut on both sides of the bolt to get the spring out because the welds let go on the captured nuts buried in the small pockets. I then had to cut a hole in the floor under the back seat to get the captured nut out so I could replace it with a new nut.

broke captured nut.
SANY0190.jpg

hole I had to make to get to nut.
SANY0188.jpg

you have to cut the remaining threads sticking into the frame BEFORE you cut on the spring side of the nut so that is 3 cuts that has to be made

and this is the wrench I had to modify to fit into the captured nut pocket.
SANY0196.jpg
 
I had the same issue last night. The captured nut on the pass side broke off in the frame. I ended up cutting a hole in the mount itself from the outside. I still have to reweld the new nut, and patch the access hole. Needless to say, my three hour lift project took longer then expected.
 
JUST TOOK MINE OFF LAST NIGHT.... THE BUSHING HAS A SLIT IN IT AND I WAS ABLE TO GET A SCREWDRIVER IN IT AND START PRYING ON IT A BIT... THEN I SOAKED IT IN LOTS OF PB LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 20-30 MIN AND THEN GRABBED A PRYBAR AND USED THE CLAW CAREFULLY BUT FORCFULLY PULLED IT OUT..... YOU COULDNT SEE HALF OF THE THREADS AND COULDNT TELL THE BOLT TAPERS BECAUSE IT HAD SO MUCH RUST ON IT BUT ITS OFF NOW AND THE NUT WELDED TO THE FRAME IS STILL GOOD.... GUESS I GOT LUCKY! NOW JUST GOT TO GET IT PUT BACK TOGETHER TONIGHT AND THEN DO THE FRONT THIS WEEKEND.... LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES AND GOOD LUCK. OH AND IF YOU CANT BEAK IT LOOSE LET ME KNOW I MIGHT HAVE SOME IDEAS ON HOW TO DO THAT IT TAKES A WHILE BUT IT WORKS
 
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