I don't know what the *&#&$ is going on anymore

Just went to discount tire today to see how much some new 35's to fit my new axles were gonna be, and I got a reality check.

Due to the extremely large disk brakes I have, I need to run a 17" rim.
Also, it needs to be a 6x5.5 chevy bolt pattern, with a huge center bore so the rim will fit over the warn hubs. apparently this kind of rim doesn't grow on trees, so its really friggin expensive, a lot more than I thought I was gonna spend. even for steel wheels.

So this brings about me questioning if its really worth it. Im a college kid, Ive been saving for a while and probably have the money to get it done but, being the logical thinker that I am Im wondering if it will be a good choice for the long run. Im really starting to think about getting rid of the money pit, and just getting a reliable daily driver till Im done with school.

I don't know Id like to hear some opinions of what you would do.

also, if their is a cheaper way of going about getting some tires for these axles, like junkyard wheels, from a stock vehicle that would work or something. anything. please . . . . . . . . Help. lol

I take it you have axles from a FS Chevvy truck? Have you tried looking for that sort of wheel at the boneyard? It may not be exactly right in terms of backspacing/offset and such (and a 17" may be a bit difficult to find,) but if it's there it would be cheaper than new.

If you need to expand the centre hole, a cylinder hone with coarse (120 or 180 grit) stones can give you a neat job on steel.

To leave the life style that those with normal brains call "throwing your money away", would be a grave loss. "To own a jeep is to spend money". It may not be logical, but it makes sense to us!
I, being a past toyota owner will admit that the toyota is a good thing, but there is something mystical about spending your hard earned cash on something that doesnt get out as often as you have it built for.

It is a Jeep Thing and yes they do not understand!!!

You can have the hubs(?) redrilled to a more common lug pattern. Not sure how much that costs but it keeps you from havin to worry about ever buying rediculously expensive wheels in the future.

I came from a Mazda Pickup, so I know how it is to throw money at projects....

It may not have looked decent, but it went like stink.....

And, no they don't understand......(my wife sure doesn't.....)

What's the centerbore you need, and what kind of price are you getting on wheels. I may be able to find some better options for you. I sell wheels, so I can call around to some places and see what I can find for you. Would be Tuesday of next week more than likely before I had an answer for you though.

believe me guys, I know the jeep thing welll, and I know it takes a lot of money but this was about double what I was hoping to spend.

The axles I bought off ebay from a guy that was local, They are completly custom, with arbs, dutchman 35 spline shafts, high steer, 4.88's, trussed, all the good stuff pretty much. The way the guy at discount was explaining it to me was the center bore had to match up perfectly or else it would rip the studs right out. I did a quick measurement, on the front hubs, and they were about 3 1/4" The wheels he found for me were black wagon wheels for about 110 a piece installed, with 256 a tire+ all the misc. bs charges, would put it at around 2300 for a set of 4, And I wanted to get 5. my buddy just bought a set of 5 33x12.5x15 bfg mt's on black soft 8's for 1300.

Did warn hubs ever come stock on chevy's? if so It seems I should just go to the junkyards, and try and find something that works, I guess I'll try that. but Im thinkin if I parted with all this stuff, I would be pretty well ahead, and come out with more money and a cleaner dd. maybe not as capable offroad but something I could still have fun with.

dave41079- if you could look up some rims that would be great and much appreciated.

the center bore would be around 3 1/4" but I was gonna measure it with a micrometer just to get a closer measurement.
Bolt patter 6x5.5, and its gotta be a 17" rim to clear the calipers, guy at discount said that was pretty weird to want a 17" steel rim.

Perhaps you could swap calipers or shave them down to allow for a 16" wheel.

you could use an adapter or modify some JY wheel for the centerbore you need.
not sure if anyones making an adapter. is that a 6 lug?

Why would you need a 17" wheel when 16" is the factory even today for 2500 and up Silverados? Because of knuckle over steering?

Something I was wondering is aren't chevy axles all passenger side drop? If that's the case then youve also replaced the transfer case and at this point having spent all that money previously there's not much worry about logic.

CV95XJ said:

dave41079- if you could look up some rims that would be great and much appreciated.

the center bore would be around 3 1/4" but I was gonna measure it with a micrometer just to get a closer measurement.
Bolt patter 6x5.5, and its gotta be a 17" rim to clear the calipers, guy at discount said that was pretty weird to want a 17" steel rim.

Click to expand...

If you could get a mincrometer on there that would be great. Sounds like you're right around an 83mm hub bore. You can always go larger on the hub bore and use hubcentric rings to get it back to spec. Don't ever talk to the guy who told you $2300 again. That's ridiculous. I know for a fact you can find 6x5.5 wheels with 108mm hub bores all day long because that's what Colorados/Canyons/Trailblazers/Envoys, and even some Nissans run. Because of supply and demand you might honestly be cheaper going with aluminum wheels instead of steel. I'm guessing you were looking at something like a 315/70/17 or a 35/1250/17. That's where you're going to spend some money. Any particular tires you were interested in? Also what kind of offset are you wanting to run. I'm guessing in the 0 to -12 range?

To clarify what he was saying about it needing to have the center exactly the same... Most of your newer vehicles are hubcentric. There is a lip on the hub that the wheel rides on, and that is the load bearing surface for the weight of the vehicle, the lug studs and nuts just keep the wheel tight up against it. On a few vehicles and most older ones, stock XJs included, they are lugcentric which means the lug studs and nuts actually center the wheel and carry the weight. If you don't use hubcentric rings or a hubcentric wheel on a hubcentric vehicle, then you will get odd vibrations that you can't track down due to the wheels not being centered. I seriously doubt that you'd be "ripping the studs right out." That would be a VERY extreme case, and would only be a concern at highway speeds.

Also why not search for some used wheels and tires, there is some nice stuff out there.

Dave41079 said:

Most of your newer vehicles are hubcentric. There is a lip on the hub that the wheel rides on, and that is the load bearing surface for the weight of the vehicle, the lug studs and nuts just keep the wheel tight up against it. ...............If you don't use hubcentric rings or a hubcentric wheel on a hubcentric vehicle, then you will get odd vibrations that you can't track down due to the wheels not being centered. I seriously doubt that you'd be "ripping the studs right out." That would be a VERY extreme case, and would only be a concern at highway speeds.

Click to expand...

I have a full size pick up the factory rims were hubcentric, been running non hubcentric rims for 3 years just using centering lugs no problems at all.

btw they are kmc xd series black finish, so far they held up for 3 ny winters. they were less than 1/2 the price of similar rims, so i was concerned that the finish would be crap..so far so good

Dave92cherokee - This is a custom axle, it is drivers side drop, and my driveshafts fit fine so that part is logical.

dave, you were dead on, I was looking at 35x12.5x17 bfg mud terrains, cause thats what Ive always ran, And ive been happy with them, but if their were any other decent choice out their I would try them out.

on a more positive note, I went to the junkyard this morning, and found some white wagon wheels, that were in pretty good shape, about 3.5 to 4 inches backspacing, 6x5.5, they were 16" though, I am thinking about trying to grind the calipers down to accept the 16" rim.

TireMike - I am running 1 ton chevy tre's but thats not whatshitting, the caliper on the rear is hitting the rim, it wont even turn. Im thinking this could be because of my test fit rim has a lot of bs, probly 5 inches or so. it was my buddies spare off his 1994 silverado.

Im gonna grab those wagon wheels, and see if they fit or are even close, then I'll just need tires which won't be as bad, and tires for a 16 inch rim will be cheaper as well.

I find it pretty funny that fabbing up all the brackets is no big deal but getting a set of rims to fit is a huge hassle.

oh, and Ive looked around a bit for used tires and wheels, but can't find anything that fits my needs, Ive looked on pirate, ebay and here, but if anyone sees anything let me know, that would help alot.

35x12.50x17
6x5.5 lug pattern
around 4 in. bs
any kind of rim,
most any kind of mud or all terrain tire I would consider.
thanks guys.

My friend runs wheels that have hubs that are too large on his SRT neon, he beats on that thing all day long at auto crosses and hasn't had any problems. You just have to be more careful when putting the wheel on and tightening the lugs that you get the wheel centered.

Definitely check out junk yards for wheels.

Out of curiousity do you know how your axle is set up? Sounds like chevy knuckles/spindle/hub/rotor and big ford brakes?

here is what the ebay auction said in the description:



I have a dana 44 Hybrid front and rear up for auction.

The front is 65 inch wheel face to wheel face.
disc breaks
ARB
4.88 yukon gears
33 spline 4340 alloy shafts (Dutchman)
Yukon superjoints
4340 outers
Warn HD lockouts
Hi steer arms
Hydro assist ram
1310 pinion yoke with ubolts
Moog balljoints
Axle has been trussed as shown
Heavy Duty Diff cover

The rear is a 44 Hybrid
65 inch wheel face to wheel face
Disc breaks
ARB
4.88 Yukon gears
35 spline 4340 alloy shafts (Dutchman)
Full float hubs
35 spline drive flanges
1310 pinion yoke with ubolts
Axle has been trussed as shown
Heavy Duty Diff cover

I have run these for 3 years and they have been great. They are set up for 3 link on a TJ but could be changed to what ever you wanted. I ran 35" Then went to 38" . The only reason I am selling is I am going to 40" plus. They could be shipped by truck but you will need to arrange for that. Otherwise, local pickup. I will skid them and load them into the back of a truck or trailer. I am also selling the Hydro assist ARG steering box on a seperate auction.


I don't know if the link still works but here it is so you can check out what they look like
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...30210535261&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

I thought hubcentric or non had more to do with the rim and how its designed. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't rip off any studs unless you used a huncentric rim without proper fit giving things enough room to move.