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AW4 Question

H

HiFiBuysTN

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Antioch,Tn
So I bought a parts XJ since my XJ threw a rod through the block. The guys said the trans just stopped pulling one day. So i check the fluid: fine. I've already pulled both motors and trans from each XJ. I though it might be a bad torque convertor. What can i do to figure out if it's a bad torque convertor or a locked up trans? Also what would i be looking at to use my 2wd trans to convert it? (Yes yes i know i have to swap output shafts) I'm looking for a more involved example. Thanks
 
Swapping the output shafts requires a near complete tear down, btw. Most of the AW4 problems are not mechanical, but rather easy electrical problems like a bad TPS, bad shift solenoid, etc.
 
lawsoncl said:
Swapping the output shafts requires a near complete tear down, btw. Most of the AW4 problems are not mechanical, but rather easy electrical problems like a bad TPS, bad shift solenoid, etc.
Click to expand...
X2 on the AW4 problems being mostly electrical like TPS and solenoids. I personally have never seen but one that needed to be re-built. It had a cracked case and required to be torn down and the case heliarced back together. So everything was put back in new as far as clutch packs etc...
 
I'm local and I've had my fair share of AW4 problems. If you need any help or have any questions let me know. Every problem I had except for one was electrical. The other one was burnt clutch packs...which happened when a solenoid went out, so I guess that could be electrically related too. What year trans are you looking for? Pull-a-part has a few, I think they end up being about $75 with tax and everything, with converter. I am going to try to head out there on Sunday if you want I can look and see what they've got. Considering your name is Hi Fi Buys, I'm guessing you know a little about 12v, or at least know someone who does. I've worked at Cartronics, 615 MotorTrendz/Just for Cars, and now EE. You should be able to check all the electronics at the TCU connector. Ground, 12v memory, 12v turn on, solenoids, TPS. The TPS shoulds read 0.5-5v from closed to WOT, gradually. I want to say the solenoids(3) should be 13-17ohm resistance to ground. Any particular questions, just let me know. I'll do what I can to help.
 
The TPS voltage will depend on what year. The Renix setup with the dual output TPS sensor ran backwards from the HO and later setup (ie 5-0 volts ). The FSM says 11-15 ohms on the solenoids, but in my experience its either pretty close to that range, shorted, open circuit, or way high with more than 20 ohms.

I guess we need more info on the symptoms.
 
Ok so after way to f*%&ing long my jeep is finally back together and running. After topping of the fluids i fired her up and shifted it in to reverse, felt it grab and then went on in to drive. I was able to drive around the yard and driveway until I stopped and put it in park. I did not shut off the engine, when I put it back into drive it would not pull at all. It is out of a 91 and I stuck it into another 91. Hope this new information helps. (BTW I changed my ID from Hifi to now Mr. Shrek due to a nice job change)
 
Ok so I got correct voltage on everything except c8, c9, & c11 (0 volts on all of them) So would that just be a bad neutral safety switch? And if so wouldn't that also keep me from being able to even start the jeep? Thanks for the help. Oh yeah on D2 the votage was flip flopped on the open and closed throttle.
 
The TPS voltage being backwards from that diagnostic is normal. The TPS voltages sent to the Renix TCU were backwards compared to the HO engine setup. With the switch to the HO engines and Chrysler engine computer, the voltage was reversed to match what the engine computer used and eliminating the need for the dual output TPS.

The lack of voltage on C8 and C9 could be a bad NSS. A dirty NSS will also cause problems starting as the starter relay is connected through there. Often putting it in neutral will let it crank. You mentioned that C11 is also no voltage. Do you have a power/comfort switch? If the light on that doesn't come on, then you likely have a blown trans fuse. That would also cause the no voltage on C8 and C9 and no reverse lights too. It's in the fuse panel under the dash.
 
lawsoncl said:
The lack of voltage on C8 and C9 could be a bad NSS. A dirty NSS will also cause problems starting as the starter relay is connected through there. Often putting it in neutral will let it crank. You mentioned that C11 is also no voltage. Do you have a power/comfort switch? If the light on that doesn't come on, then you likely have a blown trans fuse. That would also cause the no voltage on C8 and C9 and no reverse lights too. It's in the fuse panel under the dash.
Click to expand...

I do not have any problems with it starting, it's the driving that isn't working out so well. The light on the switch does come on but I see no change in voltage on that wire. I checked for constant and switched power and got both.
 
As you drive, your engine heats up the wiring that runs to the NSS. As the wiring heats up, it can decrease the electrical conductivity of the wiring. If your NSS is semi-gunky, this decrease in electrical conductivity can cause the NSS to stop working properly.
 
I only got to drive it around that once, drove it through the yard, put it in park and left the motor running, went inside, came back out put it in drive and nothing happened in any gear. Since then I get to response in any gear.
 
So, you'll put it in 'D' and hit the gas and the Jeep doesn't move? Same thing happens in '1-2' and '3'. Does the engine rev up when you hit the gas?
 
When the motor revvs, does the Jeep move at all?

When you move the gear shifter, can you feel the tranny engaging any of the gears at all?
 
No, I'm just at work, multi-tasking.

Interesting that when you shift the gear selector, it doesn't engage gears at all. Maybe your linkage is mis-adjusted or broken. AFAIK, if you manually pull the selector down into '1-2' the tranny should still engage even if solenoids are bad.

Check your linkages.
 
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