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HELP! New steering box = no power steering!!!

R

rockjockphatts

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Minneapolis, MN
HELP!

I just installed a new (reman'd) steering box, all went well with the install...or so I thought.

As I was driving the heep to the parts store to drop off the rented tools, my steering got progressively worse, to the point where, on the way home the wheels felt like they were being driven by a manual gear box. Once I got home, the problem only got worse...It is to the point now where I can't even turn the wheels at idle or when at a stop. ALso, it seems that it only takes 3 revolutions of the steering wheel to go stop to stop whereas before it would take 3.5. So I'm wondering if it's the right box for the jeep with the pump providing enough pressure?!?!

ANy tips, thoughts, or just plain help?????
Please, this is my dd and she's a hurtin' unit
 
x2 i was thinking the same thing
 
Not sure on a Jeep, but on my Cutlass Ciera you had to do this: Raise engine RPM to 1500, remove Power steering cap. Turn the wheel to hard right, hold it. release wheel and check level. Again hard left, hold, check level. Continue until power steering fluid level stays constant.

Figured I'd throw in that tidbit, not sure if thats the correct instructions for a Jeep but it sounds similar.
 
No, that is not a good way to do it and can burn up your pump!

With a new box and/or pump, the way to blead it is to lift the wheels into the air so no load on them. Top off your pump to correct level. With the engine OFF cycle the steering back and forth slowly, lock to lock. Do this a half dozen times. Recheck the fluid level and top off again. Continue this until level does not change. With tires still in the air, cap on pump and at correct level, start the engine and slowly cycle back and forth, lock to lock. Do this a half dozen times, shut off engine and check level. Do this until level does not change. Lower tires back onto the ground, start engine and cycle, feeling if the steering seems okay and check for leaks now it's under load. Do this a few times and check the level again.

Once you have done this and the level does not change, you can road test to make sure everything feels okay.

This is basically how you do almost any power steering system. Air in the pump that does not get cycled out can cause the pump to fail if ran too long that way. Typically doesn't hurt the box.

Hope this helps.
 
ok, so (xj mike) I've bled the system as you described...problem still persists. errgh

some more background: I installed an in the line filter as per the remanufacturer, I also replaced the pitman arm tie rod end, steering arm tie rod end and the tie rod end that connects to the connecting rod on the pax side.

Additionally, the wheels turn a lot easier when the RPM is above 1500, it's a night and day difference between idle (700-800 RPM) and when driving or revving, however, even when revved, the steering is still not as fluid as it used to be.

ANyone?!??!
 
um i just had to change one of the lines and when i bled the steering i took off the cap and turned it from side to side 4-5 times and watched for bubbles u kind of need two ppl otherwise it could b hard but turn till there r no more bubbles and other than that i would also say that there may be somethig blocking the tube.
 
I would say to remove the inline filter. It can be causing too much pressure restriction, which is why the higher RPM's seems better. It is pumping more pressure and overcoming the restriction.

Most, if not all of the OEM do not use a filter for the PS system. If it wasn't there to begin with, most likely there is no need to have one at all.

Good luck.
 
xj_mike said:
With a new box and/or pump, the way to blead it is to lift the wheels into the air so no load on them. Top off your pump to correct level. With the engine OFF cycle the steering back and forth slowly, lock to lock. Do this a half dozen times. Recheck the fluid level and top off again. Continue this until level does not change. With tires still in the air, cap on pump and at correct level, start the engine and slowly cycle back and forth, lock to lock. Do this a half dozen times, shut off engine and check level. Do this until level does not change. Lower tires back onto the ground, start engine and cycle, feeling if the steering seems okay and check for leaks now it's under load. Do this a few times and check the level again.
Click to expand...

rockjockphatts said:
ok, so (xj mike) I've bled the system as you described...problem still persists. errgh
Click to expand...


While your problem may very well be the filter (maybe, I have one and dont have any issues) - dont underestimate the need to bleed, bleed again, and bleed one more time for good measure. xj_mike has outlined the correct procedure, however in my experience "a half a dozen times" back and forth may not be sufficient. The last time I bled my system, I went lock to lock 50+ times with the engine both off and on. Most of the bubbles may come out after a few spins of the wheel, but you may be surprised to see that a little more may keep coming after 20+ times back and forth. If removing the filter doesn't help, I would spend a good 20 or thirty minutes spinning the wheel back and forth.

have fun

-jm
 
Hmmm When you bled the system were you getting good circulation with the pump. The lower the RPM the less circulation. Your pump may be going out or it may be time to give it a GOOD cleaning/flush. I havnt read that you tried it yet. You can pic up a junk yard powersteering pump for like 30 bucks they are real simple to change. But ya when you bleed it with a friend hopefully look inside the filler cap you should se a good amount of swirl in the pump when turning back and forth.
 
well ive bled, and bled, and bled...albeit not 50 times but a lot! I think (cross your fingers) I got the problem fixed. It still seems as though the steering is stiffer now than it was before, however, it is definately assisted now whereas before it was not. Could the stiffer steering be an indication that I need to bleed more or because it's a reman'd box (ie-like new) and it's gonna be stiff for a little while.

I can live with the stiffness, again, the power steering system seems to be working now, even at idle, I just want to make sure that I can't 'do' more.

I want to thank everyone for their rapid response to my thread, it's been less than a day and there's been a good solid concensus posted in a short period of time on what needs to be done. Thank you everyone!
 
No, that is not a good way to do it and can burn up your pump!

With a new box and/or pump, the way to blead it is to lift the wheels into the air so no load on them. Top off your pump to correct level. With the engine OFF cycle the steering back and forth slowly, lock to lock. Do this a half dozen times. Recheck the fluid level and top off again. Continue this until level does not change. With tires still in the air, cap on pump and at correct level, start the engine and slowly cycle back and forth, lock to lock. Do this a half dozen times, shut off engine and check level. Do this until level does not change. Lower tires back onto the ground, start engine and cycle, feeling if the steering seems okay and check for leaks now it's under load. Do this a few times and check the level again.
Click to expand...

I could not disagree more. How do you expect to bleed the pump if it's not turning? I've done this on several cars, The ciera, a Olds Eighty-eight and my old Buick regal. The pumps came out just fine. What I suggested he do was what I read in Haynes regarding GM A-bodys 1984-1996.

The pump having a lack of lubrication (by means of air perhaps) will not kill it instantly. While I think your method might be a good idea to do BEFORE running it, I can't see it being terribly effective.
 
89CherokeePioneer said:
I could not disagree more. How do you expect to bleed the pump if it's not turning? I've done this on several cars, The ciera, a Olds Eighty-eight and my old Buick regal. The pumps came out just fine. What I suggested he do was what I read in Haynes regarding GM A-bodys 1984-1996.

The pump having a lack of lubrication (by means of air perhaps) will not kill it instantly. While I think your method might be a good idea to do BEFORE running it, I can't see it being terribly effective.
Click to expand...

Well, I am only going on 25 years of experience and what PSC and AGR (high performance PS companies) recommend.

Even with the engine off, moving the steering back and forth creates a push/pull effect on the fluid. When you first fill up the system, gravity starts priming everything. Since this fluid does not compress, when you start cycling the box, the valves insides start moving fluid back and forth. This starts to push the air out of the little spots and back into the pump housing. As the air is displaced, the fluid level starts to get lower. Guess what, the fluid is moving and filling up the box and the lines. It does it without the pump running.

I am not sure where you read I said it would kill the pump instantly. I think I said if done for too long. My buddy almost killed his pump because he didn't bleed all the air out and ran it for 3-4 minutes. It started squealing and smoking. Let it cool down for 30 minutes, topped it off and bled it my way and it worked fine after that.

YMMV, just don't work on my PS system please. :D
 
update: the system is bled...at least i believe it to be.

Have any of you installed a new box and found the steering to be a lot stiffer than before? Is this the fact that it has new components and therefore tighter clearances internally?

Just wondering b/c it is significantly stiffer to turn than before.
 
rockjockphatts said:
update: the system is bled...at least i believe it to be.

Have any of you installed a new box and found the steering to be a lot stiffer than before? Is this the fact that it has new components and therefore tighter clearances internally?

Just wondering b/c it is significantly stiffer to turn than before.
Click to expand...

Yep, I have had that happen more then once. If you get a box that has a lot of slop in it, a fresh box will seem stiffer and much more responsive to movement. I have also seen the wrong internal parts for the application yet the outside part is the same. I recall reading that '00/'01 boxes were much stiffer feeling then early boxes as Jeep was trying to make the feel more "sporty". You could have a box with later internals even if the outsides look the same.
 
hmmmmm....more sporty you say????

Well i guess it's time to lower her to the ground, get some rims, some fiberglass body panels-attach and leave primed (no paint), and an oversized muffler and go get some chicks...

In all honesty, thanks XJ_mike for the info-I appreciate the heads up, at least it creates a reasonable possibility for why it is the way it is...at least it makes me feel less like I've screwed something up ;)
 
Last edited:
Lower her to the ground, get some rims...:puke: I just puked in my mouth. Don't do it to the XJ Please. !!!1 :badpc: You have a wheelin machine it would be cooler to raise her OFF the ground.

:flamemad: :flame: :smsoap: :smsoap: :smsoap:
 
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