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Broken brake blead zirk, MOTHER @#$%&*

blotto66

blotto66

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Morgan, Utah
I just finished lifting my jeep and in the process i changed all the bake lines with stainless steel lines, now if have a cuple of issues. the first problem is a broken brake zirk on the rear axle. I twisted it right off while trying to blead them.

question 1 how do i get the broken zirk out.
question 2 the new front lines are leaking on the wheel end, the RE lines didnt come with any bushings, or o-rings, shoud there be something there (the factory lines had copper washers)

any ideas would be appricated.
 
You will have to go to the auto parts store and get the washers. That is why the front is leaking!

For the rear, just remove the wheel cylinders and replace them (the thing that the bleeder is inserted in)

You will need to remove your rear brake shoes and springs in order to do that, though.
 
Blaine, thanks for the help, ill pick one up tomorrow.
 
Should be cheap enough. Usually it's best to do brake work in pairs as well, so you might want to get one for the other side.

Like I said the wheel/brake/drum cylinders (many different names from different people) are inexpensive.
 
I tend to replace the bleeders often as Im paranoid about them braking on a bad day for it to happen. A few bucks to replace them all is easy insurance. You can possibly get the broken part out with a easy out but id go ahead and replace both sides like it was stated before it is easier to do it right the first time
 
When you get the new wheel cylinders remove the bleeder and put some anti-seize on the UPPER PART of threads only and reinstall them. You will thank yourself for doing that a couple years down the road when you flush out or bleed your brake system and realize how easy they backed out.
 
Upper part as in the tip of the threads where they insert? That's a good idea.

I know you wouldn't want anti seize in the wheel cylinders, mixing with the brake fluid and all.
 
Don't over torque and you will never have this problem again. For some reason people go nuts on them tiny things.
 
badron said:
Don't over torque and you will never have this problem again. For some reason people go nuts on them tiny things.
Click to expand...

Guess you don't live in the salt belt then. I put mine on with a 2 1/2" long modified box end. Real lightly I just snug them up. Trust me a touch of anti seize at the top will save you cash and hours of headache. Do not put the anti seize all over the threads. Just at the top of the threads.
 
I find smearing a little anti-seize or thick grease on the threads makes it easier to gravity or suction bleed the brakes by stopping air from leaking past the threads.

Replacement rear brake cylinders are around $10 each. For that price, I'd rather just replace them then sit there and curse at them for an hour trying to get a busted bleeder out. Might as well replace both sides.
 
I found that moving to where it doesn't snow cured the broken bleeder problem. :)
 
markw said:
I found that moving to where it doesn't snow cured the broken bleeder problem. :)
Click to expand...

I haven't had that particular problem on my Jeeps, because they haven't used salt on our roads until this year. We broken records for the snowiest winter since the 1800s this year. In fact it snowed another couple inches last night just out of spite.
 
blotto66 said:
I just finished lifting my jeep and in the process i changed all the bake lines with stainless steel lines, now if have a cuple of issues. the first problem is a broken brake zirk on the rear axle. I twisted it right off while trying to blead them.

question 1 how do i get the broken zirk out.
question 2 the new front lines are leaking on the wheel end, the RE lines didnt come with any bushings, or o-rings, shoud there be something there (the factory lines had copper washers)

any ideas would be appricated.
Click to expand...

Zac, can't you just reuse the factory copper washer on the RE lines? My lines weren't RE but came with washers. Replacing the whole wheel cyl. is good advice........BTDT on the bleed screw years ago.
 
Ive got my original copper washers on new hoses.
just like seating a new and old fitting together, it might take a couple of tighten/loosen cycles to remate them and produce a new seal. Just make sure not to change the angle between each cycle.
Only takes about 1/2 a turn to do this

The fittings are really only good for one remate anyways,

i just did both rear wheel cylinders, and bent up some axle hard lines. the new lines seated in the new cylinders, not a drip, or retighten needed.
but the new lines in the old axle block, arg. they needed a retighten after a night.
 
celenders are replaced, and i baught new copper washers and they are now installed too.
 
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