clutch slave help

my clutch pedal went dead on my 91 4.0 5spd while i was driving it the other day so immediately i figured it was the master or slave. i checked underneath and there was fluid all over the drivers side frame rail. so i replaced the master and tried to bleed it and it worked for about 2 miles then went dead again. i took it back into the shop and tried finding the slave and it looks like it is on the inside of the bellhousing. how do you get it out? i hope i don't have to drop the tranny to replace the slave. what gives?

i originally tried the '96 prebleed assembly but the slave will not bolt up. the 96 style has a 2 bolt flange and my 91 is a different mounting style alltogether. please help me out. thanks guys,

richie

You have an internal slave cylinder and to even look at it you have to remove the transmission from the engine. My guess is that the hose that runs from the master to the slave has a leak in it, this happened to me once. You stated that there was fluid all over the drivers side frame rail, that is where the fluid line runs. I would definently look into the problem before spending money though!!

Sucks, eh?
Just had mine done... my mechanic (i'm a service advisor) had that beast out 3 times before we were done, to replace the slave cylinder... good news though, new clutch and pressure plate at the same time, slave cylinder included for 50 dollars over the price of slave alone. got mine at checker, i expect similar for any place... almost all clutch kits will include the slave with the kit, as it acts as the trowout bearing too.
while you have the trans and t-case out, why not hunt down the guy who had that idea, and hit him in the head with it.
:twak:
enjoy-
sam

makkman said:

while you have the trans and t-case out, why not hunt down the guy who had that idea, and hit him in the head with it.
:twak:
enjoy-
sam

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I've been looking. It was a bad idea when Mazda did it, Ford used that asininity, and the story has not improved with retelling.

5-90 said:

I've been looking. It was a bad idea when Mazda did it, Ford used that asininity, and the story has not improved with retelling.

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GM too on the LSx line

philip_g said:

GM too on the LSx line

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Bad ideas sure do get around, don't they?

5-90 said:

Bad ideas sure do get around, don't they?

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it's actually kind of funny. I have a conversion car, it's a 93 RX7 running an LS1/T56. and the guy that made my clutch line must not have crimped it very well so the line blew, GM uses a funny quick connect fitting at the slave and I needed like an AN4 at the other end.... at least GM was bright enough to punch a hole in the bellhousing to bleed it, but it's still a SERIOUS hassle and you need to be 4' tall with 6' arms.

So I'm battling with that and it feels like the slave is starting to go out on my jeep, so I found this thread looking for jeep info. heh. Clutch hydraulics own me on every darn car I own, I swear...

Anyway aside from maintenance headaches when they work the hydraulic t/o bearings are pretty nice, they're light and feel great, then they blow and.... ugh.

I hate those things. I have an '87 4.0 with the Poo-go 5spd. The clutch slave cylinder line broke inside the case. Rather then throw money at this setup, it I'm going to swap in an auto or a late AX-15.

Haha, lucky for me the PO swapped the T-5 out (internal slave) for a later ax-5 (still a poop tranny, but at least it has an external slave)...

But yeah, I did almost exactly the same thing, I would have to pump the pedal to shift; so we replaced the master. Two days later; back to how it was. We rebled everything and it only got worse, I'm thinking slave, but my dad doesn't want to buy a new one only a month after we replaced it and the whole clutch (plus we can't find the receipt).

Now I have a hole in my floor, no seats, and the carpet pulled back so that we could get to the slave and bleed it/remove it more easily later (no it's not a hack job, when I do something significant like cutting the floorboard I do it right).

Should it just be the slave?

Oh yeah, and sadly you have to drop the tranny...

tbburg said:

I hate those things. I have an '87 4.0 with the Poo-go 5spd. The clutch slave cylinder line broke inside the case. Rather then throw money at this setup, it I'm going to swap in an auto or a late AX-15.

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from what I've read people say just buy another jeep rather than do a manual -> auto swap. Is it really that involved? I'd like an auto... If I'm going to have problems I might as well just swap it while it's out.
I don't know which manual I have because I'm an 89 an dI guess it's the transition year, but at 210k it's still smooth as glass so I can't complain.

Mr_Random said:

Should it just be the slave?

Oh yeah, and sadly you have to drop the tranny...

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I would say slave or you didn't get it bled when you replaced the master.

philip_g: post #10 - I'm not sure what the problem is with swapping out a manual. I think the A-#1 problem is the computer control. I plan to get around that by ditching the computer, and using a manual controller.
I have read some problems with pilot bushings, so the hole in the rear of the crankshaft might be an issue, But I have a feeling I can get creative with a grinder if that crops up.
My transfer case has the wrong input gear for an AW-4, so I'm going to try to get the transfer case with the new trans.
Then there are going to be driveshaft length issues. I'm considering a SYE kit, so there is a driveshaft issue anyway.
All in all, it's about like every other trans swap I've ever done/helped with.(they're always a pain in the a**)