RE SYE vs Spicer?

Almost ready to do SYE and was wondering what the advantage if any is to getting rid of the flange RE gives you and going with the Spicer flange?
Other than looks, does it allow you to attach to other shafts or something?
I also found a drive shaft that will fit, but it does not have a "double cardian" end on it. Do you have to go with a 'double cardian", the one that is like the front shaft near the case?

That double cardian joint is the major reason of the doing the swap, it is what allows greater DS angles without vibration. Simply running a longer shaft is not much help.

Are you doing the RE hack n tap? if so you need both the parts that RE gives you PLUS the spicer part. Unless your running the RE driveshaft you need to spicer part to adapt a stock from DS to the re H+T kit.

The spicer part (flange) I was referring to was the one that i have heard many say is a good replacement for the RE flange. I thought that you just needed just one or the other.
By the link below, the user did not say as to whether you would need to have both, just that it would be complete with the RE H&T supplied.
Please show pics of both RE H&T parts and Spicer Flange being used, so I can see the application.
http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/84jeepxj/sye.html

In that link you posted thats just the H+T part of the kit. I'm sure with that write-up he was assuming the use of RE's driveshaft, which will bolt right up to their H+T, but its also way more expensive to buy the whole new shaft vs using a junkyard shaft, replacing the U joints and getting the spicer part. The red part that bolts on first, then the silver piece is what the driveshaft actually bolts too. You will need to get some kind of U joint puller, Or you can use sockets and a bench vise, but I wasnt able to push them out that way. You need to take apart the double cardan side of the driveshaft and basically replace the centering ball with the spicer part. Its harder to explain than it is to do. Here is a pic from mine. you can see the red and silver parts supplies with the RE H+T kit, then the rusty part of the shaft is that spicer piece....If you search my old topics you will find some good info from when I was in the same boat as you and the good people here helped me out



Just a side note, if your getting vibrations make sure you check your front shaft as well, I thought mine were from the rear, so I did the H+T and it vibed the same as before I did it, I then went on to find my front shaft angle was off and causing the problems to begin with!

Heres a couple links, the part number for the spicer flange should be in there (mine was actually made by a company called neapco.



adjusting for caster - Forums -::- North American XJ Association

Local place for driveshaft work? - Forums -::- North American XJ Association

In need of some help, I still have vibes and its driving me crazy - Forums -::- North American XJ Association

Backroads- thanks man alot! I have to say, that is by far the best explanation of this issue i have seen so far. For us "visual" learners, it helps to have the pics!!
So, basically the spicer part has to do with joining the RE part and the "double cardian" to make the shaft applicable!?

exactly. The H+T is 'meant' to be used with their driveshaft. The spicer part is only used because it has 1 flat side (which meets up to the silver RE part) and matches the bolt holes, has the same centering ball and Ujoint size as the stock driveshaft.

glad to help!

What vehicle was that spicer part pulled from and what dirveshaft length did you end up needing with that set up. Were you able to use a front shaft from an auto tranny?

On my setup (if you were asking me) It is a stock AW4 front driveshaft. The spicer part I got brand new from some parts store here in PA. I dont have the part numbers off hand, but spicer makes it, neapco makes it as well as a couple others, part number should be in one of my posts I listed above, for all 3 makers.

If you have an auto trans the stock front shaft should work, it could be a little longer, but its been on for about 6 months with no issues. Dont forget to shim your rear pinion angle after putting all this on!