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replacement pans

435Mj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
utah
where can i get replacement floor pans for my 93 xj I did i seard for "floor pan" and didnt come up with to many resources as to where to purchase them. any help would be awesome. thanks tim

i have a 2 dr...idk if that makes a diff.
 
Amazon.com $158 delivered Front pan only. The rear is just about impossible to find. I'm fabricating mine, but did buy the front.
A LOT of work,I'm not anywhere near done yet and if I had to do it over again I would just junk it, which still may be an option...lol. I want to drive my Jeep, not continually screw with it .
 
adrian barr said:
try these guys.
My passenger side pan should be delivered by the weekend.

http://www.shermanparts.com/
I used their pans on both sides, and so far I am extremely pleased. As stated before it is a LOT of work!!! I even ended up paying someone to weld them in, because I am still learning to weld and needed it done fast. Good luck.
 
I am using a FULL front OEM pan. I would have gone with Shermans but the extent of rot was such that I need to replace the full pan...front and rear. Damn cancer carpet...lol
 
adrian barr said:
try these guys.
My passenger side pan should be delivered by the weekend.

http://www.shermanparts.com/

What year xj is that pan going into?? and how fast was shipping?? I just ordered mine today both left and right full pans for the front. I have some major rot in the front and a few spots in the rear. Im just useing sheet metal for the back and then body panel adhesive. In the front i have to rebuild a bit of the cross member that the seats bolt into so thats getting welded and the pan id going to get tack welded then the adhesive. Keep me psoted please. Im going to try and get pics up of my project. thanks tim
 
joecool said:
I used their pans on both sides, and so far I am extremely pleased. As stated before it is a LOT of work!!! I even ended up paying someone to weld them in, because I am still learning to weld and needed it done fast. Good luck.

Any pics before, during, or after?? thanks tim
 
Mines a 90' XJ, deliv. took about 8 days. Mine is a full(both sides and tranny hump, all in one) floor pan. It is an OEM (NOS) pan. I haven't taken any pics, although I should so e-1 can see the extent of rot I'm dealing with. We brought 17 lbs. of rotted sheet metal to the dump today, all of it off my XJ and theres plenty more to come off...lol
 
I only took a few pictures when I started (when it was still fun and new), so I dont have any pictures of the finished product.

The floor pans:
P1010026-1.jpg


Inital driver and passenger sides:
P1010048.jpg
P1010028-1.jpg


Cut out passenger side:
P1010046.jpg
 
joecool said:
I only took a few pictures when I started (when it was still fun and new), so I dont have any pictures of the finished product.

The floor pans:
P1010026-1.jpg


Inital driver and passenger sides:
P1010048.jpg
P1010028-1.jpg


Cut out passenger side:
P1010046.jpg

Wow I think we have the same trim package. I have the gray interior and the woodgrain....right on. Your rust looked pretty bad but mines just as bad if not maybe worse. but how much work did you have to do besides the cutting and grinding? Did the pans just lay down in the right spots or did you have to form themto the contours a but?? thanks tim
 
dizzymac said:
I am using a FULL front OEM pan. I would have gone with Shermans but the extent of rot was such that I need to replace the full pan...front and rear. Damn cancer carpet...lol


how much was the full pan...i got a quote for about 350 for the front and 250 for the rear.
 
xj_toker said:
Wow I think we have the same trim package. I have the gray interior and the woodgrain....right on. Your rust looked pretty bad but mines just as bad if not maybe worse. but how much work did you have to do besides the cutting and grinding? Did the pans just lay down in the right spots or did you have to form themto the contours a but?? thanks tim

Yeah, sounds like we have the same trim package. Mine is a 94 Country. For the most part I just did a lot of cutting, grinding, and using a wire brush. There are tons of tack welds. I started by drilling them out, but then I found that I could use an old gasket scraper and hammer to cut through them. Probably not the best method, but it seemed to work well. The pans weren't a perfect fit, but they were really close. I had to drill holes in them for the seat bolts. I run out of time, so I was forced to pay someone to weld the pans in and create patch panels. Hope that helps. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
Later,
Joe
 
$158 delivered for the front @ Amazon.com. The rear is the hard one to find, I'm reparing about 90% of my rear. The prob. I'm discovering now is that the rot is so extensive that even though I have this thing on 6 jack stands I am losing the structural integrity.
Drivers side "bowed" out about 2" when I removed most of the pan from that side and frame still flexed. I think I'm gonna put the diff. back in and try to get it back on all fours so it can't flex so much and go from there.
 
I was worried about the body flexing, so I decided to only do one side at a time. The only flex I noticed was that my doors dont close as smootly as they once did. I dont have to slam them to get them to close, but I noticed(nobody else would) that is required just a little more force to get them to close right. On a side note, I still havent gotten around to doing the cargo area. Does Sherman sell a replacement cargo area?
 
I don't think they do. I couldn' find a rear pan anywhere. I'm doing a full front pan so I couldn't do one side at a time, but I probably should have left the rear intact until I at least had the front tacked in place.
I'll be able to get it square again, just will take a little more work and measuring. I've scribed where the old pan sat on the side sills and will tack the new one in the same position, this should pull the sides back in to where they should be.
 
joecool said:
I was worried about the body flexing, so I decided to only do one side at a time. The only flex I noticed was that my doors dont close as smootly as they once did. I dont have to slam them to get them to close, but I noticed(nobody else would) that is required just a little more force to get them to close right. On a side note, I still havent gotten around to doing the cargo area. Does Sherman sell a replacement cargo area?

If you cant get em online i know the Dodge dealership had em by me. Expensive but if you need to try for a last resort. tim
 
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