• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Homemade quick-disconnect mod?

T3hk1w1

T3hk1w1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Houston
Has anyone here tried Joe Hinson's method for modifying the stock swaybar links to make quick-disconnects?
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=257851
I tried it today and found that the axle mount bolt seemed to be pressed into the axle mount(On my '00 XJ). Any suggestions on this? can a tine pin be pressed into the axle mount, or can it safely be left to rotate? I'm concerned about the pin wallowing out the mount if I simply slide it in.
 
I've been running my own home made sway bar links for as long as I've had any. I knocked out the bottom bolt and used a 1/2" tine pin without any problems. Mine had the pin on the bottom and used a 10mm wing nut on the top, and I welded in a section of rod to make them the length I wanted. This was with the D30.
 
Mine has the low-pinion D30, and it has a T55 Torx bolt pressed into the axle mount. I just don't wanna press it out and end up with the mod not working and no way to reattach the end links-this is my DD. Did you put a pin through the rod at the top to keep the wing nut from coming loose?
 
That T55 is actually pressed in. I had the same thing on my 01. I cut the stud off and used a pitman arm puller to push it out.
 
Yeah, it looks like it's been pressed in, that's why I'm hesitant to mess with it...Not a decent place within 15 miles that could fix it if I F-ck it up.
 
It is if you visit your parents 2-3 times a month... And they live 300 miles away...
 
I ran without a swaybar for a few months on STOCK soft-arse springs.

But with lift springs it was much much better.

Although everybody has their own tolerances and all of that crap :)
 
Careful with those disconnects. I ran them on my TJ and they wear out where the head meets the washer. Best to check them regularly since you don't want a sudden disconnect when you're going around a corner.
 
T3hk1w1 said:
Mine has the low-pinion D30, and it has a T55 Torx bolt pressed into the axle mount. I just don't wanna press it out and end up with the mod not working and no way to reattach the end links-this is my DD. Did you put a pin through the rod at the top to keep the wing nut from coming loose?
Click to expand...

Mine was also T55 Torx, and I just beat them out. I understand the newer year models are a little harder to get out. Yes, I drilled a small hole in the threads and pinned it, but the wing nuts never came loose. They were easier and quicker to work with than any of the aftermarket disconnects. Because of the wing nut, it didn't have to be perfectly level so a pin could be removed or replaced.

With the pin at the bottom, and the wing nut at the top, they were pretty easy to remove and replace.
 
i know im bringing up a dead thread here, but i dont see the final solution to one of the OP's problems. I cant get the factory swaybar link bolts out either and i'd love to know how anyone else has done it. i tried just taking a hammer to them but they didnt budge. like T3hk1w1 i have a 2000 xj.

thanks guys.
 
hopefully my answer makes sense. I had a 99 and found out like you that a hammer was not up to the job. So I ground off the head flush and then found 8 washers and put them on the threaded side and then put the nut back on the threaded side. All you have to do then is tighten the nut and it will pull it through. I used the homemade disco mod for 3 years and just actually replaced them with Rough country discos a couple of nights ago. The homemade were fine until I went above 3 inches and then they rub the springs. if you plan to keep them past 3 inches you will have to extend them somehow. It gets annoying anytime you hit a bump and you hear it hit your springs. I have no welder so I just dealt with it until rough country was running a sale on disco's for 40 shipped last month and I jumped on it.
 
seven said:
hopefully my answer makes sense. I had a 99 and found out like you that a hammer was not up to the job. So I ground off the head flush and then found 8 washers and put them on the threaded side and then put the nut back on the threaded side. All you have to do then is tighten the nut and it will pull it through. I used the homemade disco mod for 3 years and just actually replaced them with Rough country discos a couple of nights ago. The homemade were fine until I went above 3 inches and then they rub the springs. if you plan to keep them past 3 inches you will have to extend them somehow. It gets annoying anytime you hit a bump and you hear it hit your springs. I have no welder so I just dealt with it until rough country was running a sale on disco's for 40 shipped last month and I jumped on it.
Click to expand...

Nice solution. Another way is to cut the threaded side of the bolt off flush or close to flush with the mount, then use a cheap two-jaw puller to push the rest out.
 
A bfh was my solution i hit it so hard and so many times that it actually bent the mount to the side. After it was out i just bent it back into place and installed my rubicon discos
 
Just did this mod 2 weeks ago and if you have a impact hammer, it will push them right out...Be careful no one is standing there though as whe it comes out it "COMES OUT" I like them so far but I am changing the tine pin length to 2.5 in since it is real tough to get the pin in with the 2." I have no problems with them other than that...
 
Last edited:
seven said:
hopefully my answer makes sense. I had a 99 and found out like you that a hammer was not up to the job. So I ground off the head flush and then found 8 washers and put them on the threaded side and then put the nut back on the threaded side. All you have to do then is tighten the nut and it will pull it through. I used the homemade disco mod for 3 years and just actually replaced them with Rough country discos a couple of nights ago. The homemade were fine until I went above 3 inches and then they rub the springs. if you plan to keep them past 3 inches you will have to extend them somehow. It gets annoying anytime you hit a bump and you hear it hit your springs. I have no welder so I just dealt with it until rough country was running a sale on disco's for 40 shipped last month and I jumped on it.
Click to expand...

yeah that makes sense, i think i might try that. thanks!

farvaadm said:
A bfh was my solution i hit it so hard and so many times that it actually bent the mount to the side. After it was out i just bent it back into place and installed my rubicon discos
Click to expand...

i was worried about bending the mount too, but you had no problems with bending it back? you got it back to where everything would still line up?
 
Getting the stuck stock bolt out: Grind of the head, grind off the shank and punch or press out the slug left behind.

My Home Made Disconnect (IMHO):
Ford F250 rear sway bar links for 4-5" lift. Very strong and it will not break or wear out. Hitch pin on bottom with wing nut on top. I quit using a locking pin in the top because the wing nut NEVER came loose. About an inch of threads on top of the link so hooking up at slight angles is no big deal. If you have less lift just get a shorter link from another vehicle. I used a wrecked XJ in the yard to fit up various links, there are lots of them that will work for almost any lift height up to 5-6 inches.


John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
Welding on a JKS sway bar extension bracket - need to cut the quick disconnects too?
Replies
2
Views
725
RCP Phx
R
B
Jeeper needs Help !!
2
Replies
22
Views
3K
denverd1
denverd1
A
Installing axle and new control arms
Replies
0
Views
595
alloriginaltone
A
F
The Quick Disconnect WTF Thread
Replies
19
Views
2K
LJRockstar
L
C
1999 XJ 4 door lifted on 35s with Dana 44s & extras – under 76K miles
Replies
5
Views
5K
Gjeep
G
Back
Top