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AX-15 Acting up

Z

Zoro

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I threw a rear u-joint so I pulled the driveshaft and sealed the tailcone on the transfercase and drove arround in 4hi(front wheel drive) about 150 miles until I got it fixed. Today I noticed that the AX-15 is now shifting alot rougher than ever before and grinds 2nd nearly every time even w/the clutch all the way to the floor. At a red-light I can feel the shifter pulsating and it almost feels as it it's gears meshing or something like that, it's never acted like this before. I just put in a new MC for the clutch. 90XJ, 4.0, AX-15, NP231.

Any ideas?
 
All the sudden this morning it started doing something new, if I don't shift right away it will 'lock' me out of EVERY GEAR and I have to come to a complete stop and restart in 1st. At neutral w/the clutch pedal out it'll lock you out of all the gears like it should but 3rd grinds when you push the stick towards it, also if I use the engine to brake in 1st or second I get this God aweful grinding noise until I stop.

Could this be an input shaft bearing, slave cylinder or tranny mount problem?

Thanks guys
 
i dont think the front axle can be driven on paved roads. do you may have messed up your tranny. only the autos with the t-case with full 4x4 would i even consider putting it in 4wd.
 
Your clutch is not disengaging. Either the clutch is fubar's or your master/slave cylinder are giving you problems. Most likely it is the master/slave hydraulic system. Start by bleeeding the system.
 
old_man said:
Your clutch is not disengaging. Either the clutch is fubar's or your master/slave cylinder are giving you problems. Most likely it is the master/slave hydraulic system. Start by bleeeding the system.
Click to expand...
I did but there is a slow leak in the system and I can't pinpoint it.
 
Almost seems like the clutch is disengaging by itself, sometimes I have to double-clutch it just to get into gear.
 
Fix the leak and do a good vacuum bleed on the system.
 
Also check your tranny's gear oil level.

90xjo6:driving on pavement with front wheel drive(rear shaft disconnected)is not a problem and wouldn't cause any problems,except a small change in handling during turns.Re-read his post,he said he disconnected his rear shaft.
 
Last edited:
jeepdeepfreak said:
Also check your tranny's gear oil level.

90xjo6:driving on pavement with front wheel drive(rear shaft disconnected)is not a problem and wouldn't cause any problems,except a small change in handling during turns.Re-read his post,he said he disconnected his rear shaft.
Click to expand...

yes i know he disconected his rear shaft. but it seems to me that the front axle is different. but it does make sense. in 4 part-time. does it lock the front tires at the same speed. if not you would be able to drive it in it all the time?
 
Yea, it still binded up on tight turns. I don't think it'd be possible w/a full time to have the rear shaft out and in 4hi, wouldn't that burn up the viscous coupler?

What kinda fluid should the tranny be using?

Found the leak, it's the rubber part of the line for the slave cylinder right where it's crimped. Can I just replace said section w/regular brake line or do I need that special rubber hose? Those look like SAE fittings, am I right?
 
90xj06 said:
yes i know he disconected his rear shaft. but it seems to me that the front axle is different. but it does make sense. in 4 part-time. does it lock the front tires at the same speed. if not you would be able to drive it in it all the time?
Click to expand...


nope it still differentiates the pass side and the driver side axle shafts....unless you have a locker in the front.But the problem is when you try to drive a part time on the road the two axles are locked together by the t-case and there is no slippage on pavement=boom!!
 
You should be able to get the entire hose, complete with fittings, that runs between the slave and clutch master cylinder either online or at NAPA. You might also want to top off the gear oil in your tranny. My 1990 AX-15 has a leak at the rear adapter seal, between the transfer case and tranny. If I let the oil level get too low it gets hard to shift into gear from a dead stop and other hinky symptoms Top it off and it acts almost normal most of the time.

Make sure that leak is not coming from a blown slave cylinder, which will leak fluid inside the bellhousing.
 
Zoro said:
At neutral w/the clutch pedal out it'll lock you out of all the gears like it should but 3rd grinds when you push the stick towards it
Click to expand...

Um, you're complaining that it grinds when you try to put it in gear without pushing the clutch in? There is no mechanism to "lockout" the gears if the clutch isn't pushing it. Trying to do so, just adds wear and tear on the synchros. It's not the idiot proof and the grinding is normal if the clutch is not disengaged. Also, the AX15 is notorious for shifting like crap if you don't use a good quality, preferably synthetic gear oil. Cheap GL5 has a high sulfur content which attacks the brass synchros and shortens their life.
 
lawsoncl said:
Um, you're complaining that it grinds when you try to put it in gear without pushing the clutch in? There is no mechanism to "lockout" the gears if the clutch isn't pushing it. Trying to do so, just adds wear and tear on the synchros. It's not the idiot proof and the grinding is normal if the clutch is not disengaged. Also, the AX15 is notorious for shifting like crap if you don't use a good quality, preferably synthetic gear oil. Cheap GL5 has a high sulfur content which attacks the brass synchros and shortens their life.
Click to expand...
What I was trying to say was that it never did that before and it does it now. Also during normal driving I have to double clutch 3rd or it won't even 'let me in'
 
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