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rear axle seals...

D

djxjer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
canada
I just got a multi point inspection done on the jeep and they found (surprise!) about $1500 worth of work to be done... Now, I don't believe that I should pay $50 bucks for someone to change out my battery, so I'm wondering what else I can tackle on the list to save $$$...

They suggested that the rear axle seal (between the end of the axle and the drum brake assembly) needed to be replaced. How difficult is this and does anyone have any online instructions for me? Thanks.
 
What axle do you have? I changed one of them on an 88 with a d35, and it was pretty easy. No c-clips and just a couple bolts. Changing the axle bearing was a bit more of a task...
 
New catalytic convertor... They wanted nearly $500 just for that installed. Battery was quoted at $150 installed and they wanted to perform some UV die leak test for the oil saying that there was a slow leak somewhere on the motor...

But about the rear seals... anyone have any comprehensive instrucitons? Hanes manual just doesn't do it...
 
4 retainer plate bolts and you can remove the axle shaft complete with bearing, bearing retainer ring, seal, and outer retainer plate. then you need a press and a bearing splitter to remove the bearing and retainer ring in order to replace the seal. press also needed to reinstall bearing and retainer ring. good idea to either jack up the side you are changing or drain the oil to prevent oil leakage
 
Depends on which axle you have dana 35 or chrysler 8.25 how to take it apart.
 
djxjer said:
... and they wanted to perform some UV die leak test for the oil saying that there was a slow leak somewhere on the motor...

...
Click to expand...
:confused:
I think a well used 4.0 that doesn't have at least a very small slow leak is probally not that common
 
djxjer said:
New catalytic convertor... They wanted nearly $500 just for that installed. Battery was quoted at $150 installed and they wanted to perform some UV die leak test for the oil saying that there was a slow leak somewhere on the motor...

But about the rear seals... anyone have any comprehensive instrucitons? Hanes manual just doesn't do it...
Click to expand...

There are so many different axles out there.
What XJ do you have? Year, model, ABS, axle type.
Give us something!
 
You dont say what year XJ you have but in another post, you said "15 year old" so Im assuming its a 92-93. If thats the case, you have a "C" clip axle (either a D35 or 8.25). To change out the seals, you jack the rearend up and support it by the axle tubes, remove the wheels, remove the diff cover, push out the roll pin or unscrew the small bolt that holds the cross shaft in the differential, push the axleshafts in as far as they will go, remove the "C" clips from the axleshafts, pull the axleshafts out, remove the seals, reverse everything to finish it up.
This is basically the proceedure. I didnt include details on "how" to accomplish these things because I dont know how mechanically inclined you are and what tools you have.
 
falcon556 said:
There are so many different axles out there.
What XJ do you have? Year, model, ABS, axle type.
Give us something!
Click to expand...


:dunce: Duh. I'm used to another forum where all that info is in my signature...

1996 4door XJ auto 4L I6. No ABS. Unsure of the rear axle. Pretty sure the front is D30. Np231 (comman-trac)

I'm getting the feeling that I've got to get under the Jeep to see what the rear axle is exactly before I get exact instructions. Gotta wait for the snow to melt on the driveway since the Jeep won't fit into my garage anymore!

Thanks everyone.
 
Youve got a Chrysler 8.25 rearend. You can tell by the lack of ABS. It will have a flat bottom on it and the cover will have a raised lip around the edge.
Its a C clip axle, follow my instructions above.

PS: while youve got the axle shafts out, count the splines, you may need that info later and the only way to tell if its a 27 or 29 is to pull the shafts and count. 96 is the changeover year so it could be either.
 
Last edited:
djxjer said:
...They suggested that the rear axle seal (between the end of the axle and the drum brake assembly) needed to be replaced. How difficult is this and does anyone have any online instructions for me? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Did they find lube on the brake shoes? Were there traces of lube seeping out of the joint between the backing plate and axle end? I would pull off the brake drum and check it out for yourself. For $1500, it sounds like they want to be your new :loveu: :kissyou: . I would be suspect of what they're stating...find a new garage.

Fran
 
Ray H said:
Youve got a Chrysler 8.25 rearend. You can tell by the lack of ABS. It will have a flat bottom on it and the cover will have a raised lip around the edge.
Its a C clip axle, follow my instructions above.

PS: while youve got the axle shafts out, count the splines, you may need that info later and the only way to tell if its a 27 or 29 is to pull the shafts and count. 96 is the changeover year so it could be either.
Click to expand...

You got it!
 
FransWhiteXJ said:
Did they find lube on the brake shoes? Were there traces of lube seeping out of the joint between the backing plate and axle end? I would pull off the brake drum and check it out for yourself. For $1500, it sounds like they want to be your new :loveu: :kissyou: . I would be suspect of what they're stating...find a new garage.

Fran
Click to expand...

I agree. Every so often, I go to one of those garages that I know will come up with a long list of stuff that they figure needs to be done - just to get my own baseline, and then I go from there.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
Originally Posted by FransWhiteXJ
Did they find lube on the brake shoes? Were there traces of lube seeping out of the joint between the backing plate and axle end? I would pull off the brake drum and check it out for yourself. For $1500, it sounds like they want to be your new :loveu: :kissyou: . I would be suspect of what they're stating...find a new garage.

Fran
Click to expand...
Would you rather pay a shop for an inspection and have them overlook or miss something? I would stay with a shop that did what I payed them to do.
 
a muffler shop will do you cat for dirt cheap, probably around 200 or less.
pull the shafts and have a machine shop press on new bearings and seals.
i wouldnt worry about the motor oil leak unless its dumping out personally.
you can find an entire 8.25 for dirt cheap if you look around if the bearings and seals are more than 200 for both sides...
its easy to pull the shafts and clean up the pumpkin and change the fluid too. is there gear oil on your rim or brake parts? if not i wouldnt worry about the seal ...
 
blondejoncherokee said:
pull the shafts and have a machine shop press on new bearings and seals.
i...
Click to expand...

Why worry about pressing new bearings? Hes got a bad axle seal, its not that big of a deal. Pull the axle and install a new seal. Whats that, like $15 and a couple hours of labor. It'll be more if his brake shoes got oil on them, then he'll need new shoes, but still, no need to mess with the bearings or consider an axle swap.
 
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