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any tips on replacing the u-joints

Kiefer316

Kiefer316

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Littleton, Crawloardo
im probably going to be doing my front axel u-joints here in a couple weeks when i have cash and i was wondering if anyone had any tips before i do this? should i just get new shafts? or just keep the ones i have and just do it up? and what u joint should i go with?
 
Well, being that I know you're a kid on a tight budget....... :D

Just rebuild your original 260 shafts by replacing the joints. Napa's are decent - about $14 each.

If you wanna upgrade/go stronger, then you'll need to source a pair of 297's from a '96 or newer XJ. Obviously you'll spend more money for the shafts and then replace the joints (still $14 each). However, if you have the vacuum disconnect D30, you'll have to do even more modification by eliminating the vacuum linkage, block off the housing it was mounted to with a piece of metal plate, and then install a seal in the diff housing for the new one piece shaft (your disco axle has a 2 piece pass. side shaft.)

If you've never done u-joints before, you'll need to have someone who has standing by to help you with 'em. There's a bit of an art to doing them.
 
Changing u joints is pretty easy if you have the right tools. I have used the Harbor Freight cheap ball joint press with success http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335.

Spicer brand u joints are a considered the best for u joint replacement on OEM shafts. These will probably not be in stock at the local parts stores but they should be able to order them for you. You need to find out what size u joint you have by measuring the cap diameter. The 297 will be 1-3/16" Dia, and the smaller 260 is 1-1/16" diameter. Hopefully you have the 297 size which has been replaced by the new 5-760x, commonly referred to as D44 size, these are all Spicer part numbers.

Some reference material for the install can be found here http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm
 
Get some Anti-Seize compound/lubricant when you get your U-joints, and paint the caps with the stuff. It will make the job much easier next time.

Torque the stub shaft nuts to 185 pound-feet and the bearing assembly retaining screws to 75 pound-feet. You can reduce both of those by half if you use never-seez on them - useful trick for if you don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 185 pound-feet... You can reuse the stamped cap for the stub nuts, but use new cotter pins!
 
Albino Krikit said:
actually i dont know if it has abs because i just got the rig. how do i find out if it has abs?
Click to expand...

LOL - friggin' newbie........ :D

ABS looks like spaghetti of tubing and a large electric motor situated in a metal manifold block just head of the brake master cylinder.

Did ya look at the links to the threads I posted? There's a pic of an ABS equipped axle shaft in one of 'em - go look at the pic, then look at your rig's axle shaft and see if it has the sensor ring on it.
 
just went out and looked at my u-joint and it looks trashed i am able to move the shaft with my hand pretty easily and this bugs me i went to the other side and it was strong. should i not drive it. what would happen if im driving and it breaks? what would happen would i not be able to drive it?
 
Replace those as soon as possible - you don't want that u-joint failing at 60mph.

  • Dana 30 axles with the NP231, 1987 through 1991 are vacuum disconnect
  • NP242 Selec-Trac will not have the disconnect
  • All 1992+ are non-disconnect
  • All 84-88 D30s have 5-260x u-joints (1 1/16" diameter caps)
  • 1989-95 non-ABS have 5-260x u-joints
  • 1989-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints (1 3/16" diameter caps)
  • All 1995 1/2+ have 5-297x u-joints
  • 5-297x u-joints can be replaced with the stronger 5-760x u-joint

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
big ? when your replacing them is it esier to take the whole shaft out? and my buddy said WD-40 the snot out of all the screws and bolts and stuff. so would it be esier im planin on doin it on sunday because it will be easy for me to use the gurage and i plan on doing both sides.

(Play nice, now. We try to maintain a more "family" atmosphere here... -Ed.)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Albino Krikit said:
big ? when your replacing them is it esier to take the whole shaft out?
Click to expand...

If you figure out a way to change them [easily] without taking the shaft out, you are the man.... so yes, take the shaft out. (wheel off, caliper off, rotor off, three retainer bolts, axle out).

And you're thinking right on going ahead and replacing the other side while youre at it. No sense in having to get all the tools out twice. Plus its better to practice in your garage than on the trail.

Use anti-seize instead of WD. Its a totally different compound.
 
just to clear it up...

use WD or some time of penetrating oil on the retainer bolts on the axle shaft when you're taking them out if you want to. You definitely dont want to break those off. Didnt want you to think I was boycotting WD :farmer:
 
there are 'proper tools' out there for changing u-joints, but in a pinch (and sometimes just because its handy) I'll generally sit the ear on top of a socket that is bigger than the cap of the u-joint so that when you drive the bottom cap inward, the cap will fall out into the socket. and use a socket thats slighter smaller than the caps to drive the top cap inward toward the center of the u-joint. be careful not to hit the ear or you'll bend it and you'll be cussing that thing everytime you go to swap them from then on out.
 
99XJWhitey said:
there are 'proper tools' out there for changing u-joints, but in a pinch (and sometimes just because its handy) I'll generally sit the ear on top of a socket that is bigger than the cap of the u-joint so that when you drive the bottom cap inward, the cap will fall out into the socket. and use a socket thats slighter smaller than the caps to drive the top cap inward toward the center of the u-joint. be careful not to hit the ear or you'll bend it and you'll be cussing that thing everytime you go to swap them from then on out.
Click to expand...

I've done over a dozen of them over the years like this, having a bench vise is handy as well.
 
99XJWhitey said:
just to clear it up...

use WD or some time of penetrating oil on the retainer bolts on the axle shaft when you're taking them out if you want to. You definitely dont want to break those off. Didnt want you to think I was boycotting WD :farmer:
Click to expand...
Use penetrating oil instead of WD...because WD isn't a penetrating oil. Yes, I am aware that it can temporarily help lubricate lightly-siezed items, but it displaces water; that's what it does best. Try a few shots of PB Blaster, and see the difference.

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
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