• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Best fuel pump to buy?

Ecomike

Ecomike

NAXJA# 2091
NAXJA Member
Location
MilkyWay Galaxy
Maybe I should ask what fuel pump brand not to buy! Anyway, looking for feedback on best and wirst brands, or even part numbers (if their is a best and worst duty model in the same brand). I have an 87 XJ, Wagoneer ltd, 4x4, 4.0 L.

I had a no fuel no start problem today. :( Tried everything in the book, relay swaps,......, nothing helped, finally I wiggled the wires up top of the gas tank, no but no obvious sign of any problems. Tried one last desperate attempt to start it and the fuel pump kicked on loud and clear in run, before I even cranked it over. :rof: Wiggling the wires and smaking the gas tank with my hand, fixed it for now. Ya, I know, you just need to know where to smack it right? :banghead:

Made the 35 mile trip back home. Shut it off, restarted it no problem, but I just don't trust it now. :eyes:

The question now is do I need a fuel pump or do I have a loose connection or loose ground on the fuel pump. If I replace the pump what pump should I use?

Oh, and do fuel pumps come and go like this on their last gasp of life? Don't the DC motors use carbon brushes that wear out?????? and thus can act up like this the last few times they are turned on?

Thanks.
 
I haven't had to replaced one yet, if I do, I'm going to shop around for a Bosch pump.

If you do get a new pump, would you do some quick ohm checks comparing the new with the old. A static ohm test and one while spinning the pump and whatever else you can think of. Not pump specific, but I've messed with many small motors and they usually have a tell that can be picked up with an ohm meter, if you have some baseline numbers.
 
yup i just replaced my fuel pump just yesterday with a master from auto zone and it works good just make sure you tighten every last bolt. like i mean tight. it wasn't that hard to replace but doing it on the floor sucked. after i got it done i took it to my buddys shop and had him look at it. and he said it was good...but i would replace it cause it would be better in the long run. cause it can happen anytime anywhere...
 
I never could get anyone to give me a good answer on the best pump to buy. I went ahead and bought the Autozone pump and sending unit listed under the Master Brand. Part number was E7091S. $99.99 plus tax. My problem was actually the sending unit was leading where the fuel lines go thru the plate and since you can't buy just the sending unit without the pump.....I got the whole thing. I installed it and no more leaks. Gauge doesn't read right but that could be another issue. Pump works good. Autozone and Advanced both sell the part part in a different box, but 'Zone was cheaper.
 
my pump was only 65 plus tax and what not and that ended up being the problem to my no start xj but do what you think is right
 
for your year there are 2 different pumps available, a Bosch unit (part #N69302) would run you around $95 and a Delphi (part #FE0108) would be about $93.

these are price quotes from NAPA, i can link into my cataloging system at work from here at my home PC. as far as the napa brand pumps (i believe they are made by airtex) they are around the same price..... i would just go with the bosch or delphi.

-NAPA Mike
;)

hope this helps
 
Albino Krikit said:
my pump was only 65 plus tax and what not and that ended up being the problem to my no start xj but do what you think is right
Click to expand...

My unit was pump and sending unit for $99.99. It is made by Airtex. Maybe yours was just the pump?

We dropped the tank out of my '88. I have a two post lift and a friend helped me. We cut the old fuel fill lines and replaced them with new along with the clamps. The new lines are soft and flex thru the frame cutout much easier. The clamps are easier to get to on the fuel filler neck.
 
PacificEd said:
My unit was pump and sending unit for $99.99. It is made by Airtex. Maybe yours was just the pump?

We dropped the tank out of my '88. I have a two post lift and a friend helped me. We cut the old fuel fill lines and replaced them with new along with the clamps. The new lines are soft and flex thru the frame cutout much easier. The clamps are easier to get to on the fuel filler neck.
Click to expand...

yeah it was just the pump i think the one with the sending unit was like 130 or sumthin like that
 
Don't buy it from NAPA, I think Carter is the brand. I got one last week and it pumped for five minutes and died. :flamemad:

Bosch and Walbro were the stock options available for the XJ, and both make a good pump. You could switch to an inline style pump if you could find a spot for it, you'd almost certainly have to move it into the engine bay and re-wire accordingly, but much easier to work on in the future. Walbro makes 190 LPH inline pumps starting around 125, and I think the 255 LPH pump runs about 140.
 
xj2win said:
Don't buy it from NAPA, I think Carter is the brand. I got one last week and it pumped for five minutes and died. :flamemad:

Bosch and Walbro were the stock options available for the XJ, and both make a good pump. You could switch to an inline style pump if you could find a spot for it, you'd almost certainly have to move it into the engine bay and re-wire accordingly, but much easier to work on in the future. Walbro makes 190 LPH inline pumps starting around 125, and I think the 255 LPH pump runs about 140.
Click to expand...

I must admit the thought of an inline pump is most tempting, but I would probably still have to drop the tank and remove the old pump to get free flow suction to the new inline pump.

The old pump has started and worked 7 times now since my problem yesterday with out a single failure, yet. What are the chances the wiring harness connection is, was just loose and dirty, or the ground is getting flaky????? Is that electrical connector on the back of the pump, a push pull connector or some kind of twist lock connector????? I am thinking of pulling the connection and cleaning the contacts, but I have never had one of these off before.
 
If was a 97+ I would recommend the OEM one from a dealer, mainly because you have to drop the tank on them. On the older ones you can get at without having to drop the tank I'd go for one with a lifetime warranty :D :D :D :D
 
xj2win said:
You could switch to an inline style pump if you could find a spot for it, you'd almost certainly have to move it into the engine bay and re-wire accordingly, but much easier to work on in the future. Walbro makes 190 LPH inline pumps starting around 125, and I think the 255 LPH pump runs about 140.
Click to expand...

electric pumps are very effective at pushing liquid, but they aren't worth a poop at pulling it. I'd say they "suck", but that might confuse the issue! If you were to install an inline pump, you would want to install it on the frame lower than the fuel outlet to allow gravity to aid in priming it and to let a siphon help it pull from the tank. OEM pumps are placed in the tank primarily for this reason (the fuel cooling them is a secondary benefit)
 
xj2win said:
Bosch and Walbro were the stock options available for the XJ, and both make a good pump.
Click to expand...

Are those the brands one would end up with buying a fuel pump from the dealer? If not, isn't a fuel pump one of those parts that it's best to get an OEM from the dealer? Just wondering. The cost would probably be 3-4 times higher.
 
Update on my probelm.

Seems the fuel pump is OK. Guess I got lucky this time.

Starting to look like a repeatable issue with the ignition switch key/lock actuator mechanism. Well the second new ignition switch is only 6 months old, so its about time, due to be replaced again, to replace the IS POS again. If it is, its going for good this time, getting a whole new switch style, or at least a HD quality brand somewhere.

I discovered in the FSM today that I can run a wire from the battery +12 V post to pin number D1-6 on the small diagnostic connector and it powers the fuel up full time bypassing all the relays, ignition switch and the ECU!!!!! Just takes a short jumper wire with a pin in one end and an aligator clip on the other.

Nice trick to know when out in the boonies when the wire-switch-relay-ECU gremlins attack.
Sorry guys, this only works on the 87-90 Renix Jeeps!:bawl:
 
Bosch Bosch Bosch Bosch!! The Napa pump is loud and unreliable. I had the same problem (Beat on the tank and it came to life) and it eventually left me stranded with a full tank of gas:doh: I replaced it with the Napa pump and ended up doing it again a month later. I have a buddy that had bad luck with the Napa pump also. But glad it's not the pump, kinda sucks to change.
 
To clarify, the Bosch and Walboro stock pumps were with the H.O. - I am unsure if they were the same with the Renix series. As far as the inline pump, it still sounds like a good idea to me. In-tank fuel pumps would be horrible at building pressure behind the pump, drawing it through ten feet of hose out of the tank. However, most inline pumps are designed for high-horsepower applications, and thus typically provide higher pressure than a stock-replacement pump. You would have to take out the stock pump and run an extended hose with a strainer attached to it, but it would be much easier to work on.
Also, the electrical connections on the pump are the push-on type. The whole pump is grounded through the metal top piece that matches up to the outside of the tank.
 
the high performance aftermarket pumps, however, are specificly designed to be mounted below the fuel cell to take advantage of their ability to push rather thau pull fuel. As the Renix pump is accesable without completely removing the tank, I don't see much advantage to installing an aftermarket pump that will ,at best, do the some thing the original does-- only lower on the vehicle where it's more likely to get damaged.

just my .02
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Fuel pump will not prime
2
Replies
35
Views
210
Patrick dimel
P
WGxj
1997 XJ 4.0L AW4 Long Crank Problem
Replies
4
Views
43
WGxj
WGxj
Z
1990 renix electrical issues
Replies
3
Views
68
cruiser54
C
Ecomike
87 Renix XJ No fuel, No brake lights, cranks fine
2
Replies
27
Views
850
Anak
Anak
S
1998 XJ no start - No fuel pressure
Replies
11
Views
2K
sjx40250
S
Back
Top