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temp question

stxcherokee

NAXJA Forum User
ok, heres another thread on temp.. but can't pinpoint my question by searching..

i have a 95 4x4 automatic xj. aftermarket temp gauge tapped into the water pump sensor w/ a T.

i notice that my jeep warms up to 210 as everyone elses does. but when i play, and when done playing in the mud or sand it hits 220 - 230 most of the time and doesn't come down faster. I would have to say that it's normal temp is 220

is this normal to run at 220, i'm worried i'll overheat. wanna goto the beach this spring break, but the traffic has you as a crawl, and don't want to overheat.


any suggestions on if this is normal heat then let me know
 
It sounds like it's running a bit warm.. I used to be able to wheel in 100* heat and never get above 210*.

I would start with the basics first - replace the t-stat. If that doesn't work, flush the cooling system. Check the fluid level. Check the radiator fins. Check your fan shroud. Next steps would be temp sensor, fan, water pump.

If it doesn't go above 230*, then I think you'll be ok until you get it right. 210* would be ideal.

E
 
Mud on the radiator fins blocks the air flow, and slows the heat transfer.

Heavy loads, like wheeling, low gears,... can produce added heat, especially auto trannies, and they can run up the operating temp a bit higher. Tiny, tiny leaks like the white poly bottle and cap can be failing to hold to pressure, causing the temperature to rise too.
 
When I offroad and am moving slowly, 220* is notg uncommon. There isn't as much air going thru the radiator so it warms up a little. I wouldn't worry until you hit 230-240.
 
Ecomike said:
Mud on the radiator fins blocks the air flow, and slows the heat transfer.

Heavy loads, like wheeling, low gears,... can produce added heat, especially auto trannies, and they can run up the operating temp a bit higher. Tiny, tiny leaks like the white poly bottle and cap can be failing to hold to pressure, causing the temperature to rise too.

Pressure bottle and cap should not be an issue because the 95 model should be an open system and have no pressure bottle.

Normally, the sensor in the t-stat housing is the temp sender for the ecu and e-fan and the sender in the rear of the head is the temp sender for the gauge. Since you said aftermarket sender I don't know how it is wired.

Many people have had problems with the afterarket temp senders for the gauge. It is not a bad idea to change it out to an OE sender.

My 95 always ran hot and I finally ran a toggle for the e-fan and controlled it manually, which solved my heat problems. If you have an old radiator, it would be a good time to replace it.

Good Luck.
 
try one that is all metal and probably a 3 core.

I've done alot of them, but I wouldn't think it should take more than 2 hours on the first time.
 
just replaced my rad wit a 1 core for now cause it was the cheapest one. but it didnt take too long other then dismantling the whole front end. my old rad had a bad leak so i got new hoses first and that didnt do jack so just got a new rad it took maybe an hour but i had to go to work while my buddy still worked on it. the longest part was filling it back up cause it took about an hour and a half cause it is the renix system...hope this helps
 
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