Keeping ABS with the WJ swap should be fine, but there are a few things you'll need to eyeball.
Basically, you need to see whether the XJ abs sensor reaches, fits, has a reasonable air gap to your axle shaft's tone ring, etc.
Nobody really uses the ZJ booster that I've heard of. I think it's the same as the XJ, year for year. MC, too. The difference between ZJ and XJ brakes is the rear disc that ZJs had & the prop valve to match the rear disc.
WJ's had front and rear disc, a bigger booster than XJs had, and a different MC / prop valve to match all of that. The booster (but not MC or prop) gets swapped onto older XJ / MJ stuff because it is easier to swap than the newer XJ / MJ stuff, for whatever reason. WJ prop valve has lines in the wrong place and as far as I know, you can't just gut them and put the internals into your XJ valve - so nobody uses it. the ZJ valve also has the lines in the wrong place, but the guts swap over - so it gets done.
The rear disc swap is a no-brainer. Benefits include that they aren't drum brakes & that they perform better.
Front WJ swap will perform Hella better.
Dual diaphragm booster, whatever you get it from, will increase pressure to your brakes & make *whatever* you run perform better (assuming you started witha single diaphragm booster). On the other hand, your stock brakes will still heat up, make noise, etc - and maybe get worse due to the increased pressure?
After your ZJ swap, I'd go WJ booster. Then start saving money for the WJ front brake swap (unless your rich, then just do it)
Note that a lot of guys spend additional money with their WJ swaps to update the steering, too. This is totally valid on a lifted rig (any rig, really) and is indeed part of the benefit of the swap - but it isn't necessary if you just want the brake upgrade. You can run your stock type track bar & steering just fine.