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long arm lift advice

Crewdude007

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bel Air, MD
I'm looking to do a longarm kit in the not too distant future. Leaning heavily toward the TNT Y-Link, but I was wondering what everyone else is running and what you recommend. So far, my buddies have been pushing Rusty's pretty hard, but I've heard a lot of bad stuff about the quality and customer service.

Right now, I'm running a 3.5 RE lift with 31s. Ideally I'd like to go 5.5-6.5 with 33s. Advice?
 
your buddies are not very bright if they're pushing the rusty's kit over TNT...
 
I'd go 5" lift with 33's and keep the lift you have. Trim the inner fenders some for clearance, you don't even have to move the flares. If you want a slightly better ride, then do the long arm, but the benefit is just that....a slightly better ride. To not hurt your off road performance, stick to a long arm kit that does not decrease ground clearance, like the TNT kit. The TNT kit has a crossmember that tucks the LCA mounts up nicely. I would recommend never buying a long arm kit with the LCA's mounting to a big crossmember that hangs down below the frame. All you get there is the ability to say that you're now running long arms, but you've hurt your ground clearance and off road performance.
 
My XJs on 35s w/ a bastard lift. Im running T&T y-link arms, RE 7.5 coils, Rustys 6.5 leafs, long travel shocks, and JKS shackles.
Im pritty happy w/ the t&t y-link, but my front end dives really bad. I dont know if its the 180 lbs spring rate on the RE coils + winch and bumper or if its purely the geometry of the long arm.

My junk wraps up pritty good and still handles excellent on the street.
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And T&T Customs has sent some pritty shitty products to a few members on the board here lately, I dunno whats up with that, but everything Ive seen from Rustys is at least uniform.
 
I run the TNT y-link with around 5.5" and love it.
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that being said however if I were to do it over again I would absolutely go with the Claytons hard arm kit. The TNT is a bitch when it comes to servicing your tranny, t-case, or front drive line. Any time you work on your rig in these areas you have to drop the cross member which also means dropping the arms and front suspension.
Just my .02cents
Good day
Cleatus92
 
Last edited:
BakersfieldXJ said:
And T&T Customs has sent some pritty shitty products to a few members on the board here lately, I dunno whats up with that, but everything Ive seen from Rustys is at least uniform.
Uniformly shitty? Yes, I agree.
 
Hey I say "uniform" I never said in what ways... LOL But least they dont send shackles out that are all cross drilled. w/ holes that line up like _- ,O and I dont think Rustys would send square shackels that were supposed to be round, and leave a 1/2 lip where the CNC machien didnt line up that someone was so lazy they didnt even finnish grinding it w/ and angle grinder. Thats bull$hit!

Now as far as Rustys long arms go, just look at them, even a 5 year old could look and tell you they are going to bend right at the unbraced bend in the long arm.
 
x eleventy billion on the TnT kit. I went with them over Claytons because to the belly pan skid. Before then all i had was the stock crossmember and now i have a tranny / TC skid and its big and beefy. The kit flexes very well and did i mention its BEEFY? I do have alittle problem with their customer service sometimes, but i wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.
 
lol ive never heard that before. But i did just finish watching Jeopardy. haha
 
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