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RENIX dies without warning.

8

88XJSport

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
So when it comes to Renix, I can pretty much narrow down problems pretty quickly. Not this time

Today I am pulling up to a light, get down to about a mile per hour, and it dies. Just like i shut off the key. I try to restart it, the starter barely engages and it fires up. Totally unlike renix (which takes seconds to start), but as soon as it engages it starts.

I cant predict when it will die, it just will, ill always be puling up to lights when it happens.

Ive had a tune up within the past year, and I also changed my fuel filter a few days ago. My EGR is also plugged, and TB and IAC are shiny clean.

This has been happening for the past 2 years without warning, atleast once or so a month.

Any help is great!
 
Sounds like a loose ground strap. Check that and make sure that all the connections are tight and the mounting points are clean. Loose or bad ground straps are a definite Renix killer.
 
Actually, I just changed my battery the other day, and checked that ground, and the ground going to the firewall. I actually took it off and cleaned the firewall area and the head, and replaced it. That was a few days ago, and it died today.
 
Are you still running the OEM battery cables and ground straps? If so, I'd replace them. 5-90 makes some super duty cables. http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power
When you say that you checked the grounds, did you check both the one at the firewall and the ones behind/below the dipstick?
Do you get any irratic idle before it dies out, or does it just die?
If it just dies, I'd still suspect a bad/broken/loose ground.
Just my .02 cents.

I'm sure 5-90, Ecomike, or any other number of Renix experts will chime in.
 
There should be two cables coming off of your positive battery cable. The long heavy one goes to your starter motor - that's probably fine.

The shorter, lighter one goes to the starter motor relay. If that's corroded or failing, it can cause the "sudden death" you describe - check that one.

How do I know? Had it happen on my 87 once...
 
Do I look for corrosion on the shorter wire? Or should I wiggle it with the engine running?


And to answer the other question, it just dies, like i turned off the key.
 
88XJSport said:
Do I look for corrosion on the shorter wire? Or should I wiggle it with the engine running?


And to answer the other question, it just dies, like i turned off the key.
Click to expand...

Either. Both. A wire can be corroded without having failed - so the "wiggle test" has some merit. I don't think mine was actually corroded tho - just failed due to vibration.
 
Ignition switch could be crapping out too. I would run the beast and start wiggling every connection and wire under the hood and the dash to see if you trigger the sudden death syndrome to narrow down the location.

Sounds electrical. If the fuel pump died from loss of power I would think the engine would slowly die, so I am guessing CPS or downstream wiring loss of spark up to the distributor rotor. Loose ground could cause loss of spark too.
 
Changed the ignition switch in december, and again last week, since autozone parts are JUNK!

Anyways, I ran the truck, wiggled all wires I could, including both positive cables, ground to the battery, block, and ground strap, and couldnt get it to die.

Still stumped. I appreciate everyones patience so far.
 
My daughter's 1990 4.0 engine would die trying to take off when the light turned green- occasionally, not every time. It was the CPS. Chrysler makes a high altitude CPS for the Renix engine, gives you a bit more timing advance, helps deal with a bit of wear in the distributor.
 
88XJSport said:
Changed the ignition switch in december, and again last week, since autozone parts are JUNK!

Anyways, I ran the truck, wiggled all wires I could, including both positive cables, ground to the battery, block, and ground strap, and couldnt get it to die.

Still stumped. I appreciate everyones patience so far.
Click to expand...

In that case I would re-examine the ignition switch and wires and Ign. Swt. wire connector, and the ignition switch and the key lock rod connectors for any alignment problems. I had the same problems due to high current overheating the wires, connectors and finally the Ign. Swt. on mine. As the wires and connectors oxidize with age they cause hot spots that cause the connections ans switch contact points to over heat. The small wires and huge combined loads on one of those wires makes matters worse. I finally bypassed one ignition switch output wire for most of my acc loads including the blower fan (A/C- heat blower) turn signals, electric windows, etc. and ran a new hot wire through a toggle switch to power it. That solved my ignition switch and overheating wires problems. I also had to rebuild my ignition switch wire harness connector as it was melted and in really bad shape.
 
My 89 would die like that. Had a bad battery, new battery solved it, but later reared its head again. Ended up being the altenator. Does it stay running if you shift into neutral with a little gas to keep the rpms up?
 
kellen said:
My 89 would die like that. Had a bad battery, new battery solved it, but later reared its head again. Ended up being the altenator. Does it stay running if you shift into neutral with a little gas to keep the rpms up?
Click to expand...

It doesnt do it all the time. Once a month maybe. Ill pull up to a stop sign, and as soon as I stop, its like i turned off the key.

I just changed the battery and ignition switch and it did it again.

Also after getting in after refueling, i started it up, and before the idle dropped down, i threw it in drive, and it stutteted and died.

My igniton switch isnt overheating, it was just old and the track on the inside jammed. I changed it again 2 months later, because the autozone one broke too. No signs of heat damage.
 
Maybe a sticking or dirty IAC in the throttle body. Otherwise it could be just about anything that has a loose electrical connection or an intermittent short to ground that affects power to the ECU, igntion or fuel supply.
 
Ecomike said:
Maybe a sticking or dirty IAC in the throttle body. Otherwise it could be just about anything that has a loose electrical connection or an intermittent short to ground that affects power to the ECU, igntion or fuel supply.
Click to expand...

Hmm. IAC was replaced about a year ago. But then again im not too fond of parts house parts for my renix.

But it wont hurt to take it out and inspect/clean it. How do i know its retracting and extending correctly?
 
88XJSport said:
Hmm. IAC was replaced about a year ago. But then again im not too fond of parts house parts for my renix.

But it wont hurt to take it out and inspect/clean it. How do i know its retracting and extending correctly?
Click to expand...

Or trash, carbon build up in the throttle body to IAC seat area!!!!!! or even a mobil piece of trash in that area that periodically chokes off the idle air flow path.
 
Ecomike said:
Or trash, carbon build up in the throttle body to IAC seat area!!!!!! or even a mobil piece of trash in that area that periodically chokes off the idle air flow path.
Click to expand...

Ill check that either saturday or sunday and get back to you. Hell I might as well bench clean the TB, since i havent done it in 30k miles.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 
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