• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

changing from idiot light to gauge cluster

About to do mine (89) along with LED conversion. Have no idea if it will really work as info here is kinda sketchy.

The problem issue will be the speedo cable connection. The FSM says to disconnect it underneath by the UCA, but not why. It then references a Fig. 8 which is in error. The cluster comes loose but unable to move it more than about an inch, so I dont know how I'll get it disconnected/reconnected (havent tried the FSM procedure yet). I am hoping that there is indeed a splice underneath that will allow the cable to slide out with the cluster and be disconnected.

Next week.
 
Shogun said:
About to do mine (89) along with LED conversion. Have no idea if it will really work as info here is kinda sketchy.

The problem issue will be the speedo cable connection. The FSM says to disconnect it underneath by the UCA, but not why. It then references a Fig. 8 which is in error. The cluster comes loose but unable to move it more than about an inch, so I dont know how I'll get it disconnected/reconnected (havent tried the FSM procedure yet). I am hoping that there is indeed a splice underneath that will allow the cable to slide out with the cluster and be disconnected.

Next week.

For the cable on the cluster side you can reach up from tunder the dash and unclick it. Thats what I did on my 89 (and I have big hands) when I went from idiot lights to gauges
 
Hey all,
I have an 87 Cherokee and wanted real gauges and a tach. I have an 90 cluster and when I put it in my tach was not working. People said that you can swap a no tach cluster in for a tached one. Is it a bad cluster? Or do need some new sensors for the RPM? Any help would be much appriciated.
 
Just finished the change from idiot light panel to guages and tach. 89. 4.0, auto. It works fine.

The speedo cable issue worked out OK. Disconnect the two electrical connectors from guage side with screwdriver (pushing the snap arms in), then pull out as much as poss, get underneath, locate speedo cable by UCA and brake lines. Should be enough slack to be able to push up another couple inches. This allows cluster to come out far enough to reach behind and unsnap the cable fitting.

Notes on original article;
When reseting the odo, its easiest to remove the small circlip with two small screwdrivers pushing apart the C. It will spring off so keep it on a flat surface which will allow you to see the little clip after it comes off. The milage drums are geared together. The end cap will only slide out a small amount (1/32-1/16"), you must then move the first drum away from the others to be able to turn it. Then move the next one away from the others, but not against the first one as that will cause both to turn together. A little juggling the drums with a hobby knife or small screwdriver will work. To reinstall the circlip I used needle-nose pliers at the back of the C and pushed it onto the slot. Tweezers or fingers will not provide the force necessary to snap it back on.
The Autozone part nums work, the temp sender was $8.99 but the oil press is now $18.99. Checker didnt list the temp sender and the oil press was $25+, Pep Boys had both for $25+ ea, same with Merles. Were these my only guages to readtemp/press I might consider the better senders, but since these are duplicates in my case I opted for the cheapos.

Reinstalling might have been difficult to reconnect the speedo since I had to do the push-the-cable thing again due to not having enough room to get my hand behind the cluster. Luckily when I pushed the cable from below it snapped in all by itslef, ah, clean living!

This is a great time to replace the bulbs with LEDs. My older panel uses 194 bulbs. Purchased at http://www.autolumination.com/ . The Tower2 SMTs are too bright. The turn signals using frosted white single 194s worked fine. The turn and hazard flashers will need to be replaced with electronic ones. The high beam indicator doesnt work, dont know why yet.

Another detail, the guage needles are triangular shaped, with the point towards the driver. If you take a black marker and lightly run it up the tip along that edge you will have a more precise looking reading.
 
Back
Top