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removing calipers on 89 jeep cherokee

I don't recall what size the screw heads are (I always have it, so I'm not worried about it...) but you'll want a largish C-clamp.

Before you remove the caliper, put the screw ram of the C-clamp in the "window" on the outside of the caliper (should be on the back of the brake pad) and hook the fixed jaw over the back. Slowly tighten the screw ram until you bottom out the piston (you can see this through the window on the backside of the caliper.)

This will give you more room to slip the caliper and pads over the disc. Check to make sure you didn't overflow the master cylinder reservoir and get brake fluid on your paint - brake fluid will eat paint right off the metal, given time. And, when you put it all back together, pump the brakes a couple of time with the engine idling and make sure you don't need to top off the master cylinder.
 
On an 89 XJ they should be a 12 pt 8mm socket.
 
Yeah, like 90 said, you'll need the 12-pt wrench to get it off. No special tool, just can't use hex. Funny, my boss called me last week and asked the exact same thing. Didn;t believe me until I drove over and showed him.

Good Luck!
 
blazinjames said:
is the average 8m socket 12pt? because I cant get it on..9 is too big..
Click to expand...

If it's between 8m/m (5/16") and 9m/m (~.355",) then it gets strange. I think I use a 3/8" hex key (.375") on mine. I can't think of an inch size that falls between 8m/m and 9m/m - 3/8" is slightly larger than 9m/m, and 5/16" is right about 8m/m. (This goes for internal wrenching and external wrenching fastener heads...)
 
blazinjames said:
hopefully i can figure it out!!

why do i need the C Clamp? what exactly does it do?
Click to expand...

As I mentioned, you use the C clamp to compress the piston into the caliper. This gives you more room to slip the assembly over the rotor when you put it all back together.

You can do it without compressing the caliper piston, but it will be more difficult to put the caliper back in place. Making things easier on yourself is just about always a good thing...
 
5-90 said:
As I mentioned, you use the C clamp to compress the piston into the caliper. This gives you more room to slip the assembly over the rotor when you put it all back together.

You can do it without compressing the caliper piston, but it will be more difficult to put the caliper back in place. Making things easier on yourself is just about always a good thing...
Click to expand...
Ive never used a "C clamp" although i have heard of doing it this way, and i think it actually says to do it that way in my haynes.
I just use those $8 dollor tools that goes inside the caliper and pushes the piston in that way. Either way, it has to be done or else the new pads wont fit over the rotor.
 
Last edited:
Kyle Deidrick said:
heres a decent writeup
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?p=4759#post4759

and IIRC on your 89 it uses allen heads rather then standard bolts.

-Kyle
Click to expand...

I thought 87-90 was 8mm 12pt (which is not a "standard" 8mm most are 6pt) and then 91+ went to the allen.

I know my 90 is definetly the 8mm. (Now that its been brought up i remember i had to use a ring spanner (aka box end wrench) since the sockets i had would not fit.)
 
Muad'Dib said:
I thought 87-90 was 8mm 12pt (which is not a "standard" 8mm most are 6pt) and then 91+ went to the allen.

I know my 90 is definetly the 8mm. (Now that its been brought up i remember i had to use a ring spanner (aka box end wrench) since the sockets i had would not fit.)
Click to expand...

that portion of my knowledge dont quote me on as i have a 99. BUT i was under the assumption that the two bolts holding the caliper on were allen (pre 97)

-Kyle
 
It is a 7mm allen head. Both my 87 and 89 were the same...both allen heads. Make sure to clean the holes out first, otherwise you may strip the head. I got one of the allen head sockets and it made the job alot easier.
 
Kyle Deidrick said:
It may be worth it to find bolts to replace the allen heads while you are down there.

-Kyle
Click to expand...

If he still has the factory "boots" on the calipers, hex head bolts will not work without destroying the rubber. If the rubber is gone, bolt away. I have just found it is another "specialty tool" that I need to carry.
 
Jess said:
If he still has the factory "boots" on the calipers, hex head bolts will not work without destroying the rubber. If the rubber is gone, bolt away. I have just found it is another "specialty tool" that I need to carry.
Click to expand...

Come again? my hex head bolts seat nicely into the rubber.

-Kyle
 
Kyle Deidrick said:
Come again? my hex head bolts seat nicely into the rubber.

-Kyle
Click to expand...

I could be wrong, it just seems once the bolts are seated tightly getting a socket around them would do some damage to the boot. I haven't converted mine, so if you say it works I may do the same thing.
Thanks for the info.
 
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