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Bulb output question?

XJ98Jeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Atlanta
First, does anyone know of a good place to get 135 watt H3 bulbs? I need some for my IPFs.

My main question is, how well do bulbs that says they put out 100 watts with only a 55 watt draw work? Is this legitimate? Or am I just buying another 55 watt bulb? I remember seeing a thread about this a while back, but I have no idea what to search for.
 
XJ98Jeep said:
First, does anyone know of a good place to get 135 watt H3 bulbs? I need some for my IPFs.

My main question is, how well do bulbs that says they put out 100 watts with only a 55 watt draw work? Is this legitimate? Or am I just buying another 55 watt bulb? I remember seeing a thread about this a while back, but I have no idea what to search for.

I'm sure that bulb construction is a huge factor, as well as reflectors (you may not get as much output if you don't use it with the reflector it was "spec'd" with.) Look at SureFire lamps - my little G2 uses a bulb that takes up about 1/5 the volume of the bulb in my 4D Maglite - but it's easily twice as bright. How? Construction (bulb fill is also a factor, but I lump that in under "construction.")

Can it be done? I'm sure it can. I don't know how offhand, and I don't know how well it works, but I'm sure it's doable.
 
I have an E2E and I just picked up an L1 yesterday :yelclap:

Anyway, I was mainly focusing on IPF's bulbs, just for the record.

http://www.arbusa.com/bulbs.php
Any of those have the output I'm talking about, but I'm going to buy the White Max bulbs if this turns to be real.
 
XJ98Jeep said:
I have an E2E and I just picked up an L1 yesterday :yelclap:

Anyway, I was mainly focusing on IPF's bulbs, just for the record.

http://www.arbusa.com/bulbs.php
Any of those have the output I'm talking about, but I'm going to buy the White Max bulbs if this turns to be real.

The reason they can make claims like that is because measuring bulb output as a function of electrical input is really quite vague - it has nothing to do with the efficiency of the bulb at energy conversion (and most automotive bulbs have efficiency rates that just plain suck.)

Oh - two G2's, an old Z3, and one of their "battery pack hurricane lights" here. I also want to get an M6 for tailgaters...

When you get into the idea of "performance lighting," you start needing "hard" measurements of light output. Candlepower or candelas are both common ratings - but they suck, because it's a "spot check" of lamp output. It's still more reliable than "This bulbs uses only 55W, but generates as much light as a 100W bulb!"

Lumens are pretty much it for measuring light output - and lumens are measured using a device called an "integrating sphere" - a rating in lumens is of total light output. That's why SureFire has always rated in lumens, and why other manufacturers are starting to catch up (Blackhawk/Gladius uses lumens, I think Streamlight is finally starting to, and Pelican is using lumens for their "field grade" stuff.)

However, design and construction of the reflector bowl also play into light output - it's not just the efficiency of the lamp itself, but the efficiency of the reflector and/or lense channeling that energy into a useful beam that matters. So, that "100W output/55W input" bulb might have been rated in one of their own reflectors, but won't give you the same sort of output in someone else's bowl - it rapidly becomes a case of "apples/oranges." Or, more likely, "apples/rocks." May as well use the "furlong/firkin/fortnight" measuring system, if you really want to confuse people. (Yes, that's real - look it up! I first found out about it taking programming classes, when some timing was measured in "microfortnights.")

I really don't mean anything against IPF - I think they put out a decent product, even if they are a bit proud of it. However, with most tests of illumination, the tests rapidly become worthless unless the circumstances and controls of the test are known. Even when using an "absolute" unit of measurement (lumen/candlepower/candela,) it's going to come apart if you don't know the conditions of the bulbs when put under test.

So, I've always been a bit dubious of those claims, and I'll stick to what I know.
 
An M6, or some of those aircraft landing lights... Next on the list is a C3, I need something with 3 batteries.

I'm going to pick up a pair, and if they're better than my current bulbs, then awesome, and if not, I'll put them in my backup lights, that will DEFINITELY be an upgrade. Thanks for the help!
 
XJ98Jeep said:
An M6, or some of those aircraft landing lights... Next on the list is a C3, I need something with 3 batteries.

I'm going to pick up a pair, and if they're better than my current bulbs, then awesome, and if not, I'll put them in my backup lights, that will DEFINITELY be an upgrade. Thanks for the help!

I can get 12V landing lights, but the M6 is less obvious from the outside.

I've been thinking about getting at least a couple of landing lights for the front anyhow, but I'd probably need to build a roof rack to put the beggars on...
 
The Warn aux lights are pretty much landing lights... But I'm not sure about pricing, those Warn suckers cost about a grand.
 
I'd take my bumper off the Heep and find a way to get that sucker on the taxi, along with some sort of life-sized weapon from Battlebots.
 
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