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'89 XJ Needs Ft. Axle U-Joints & Ft. Wheel Bearings

RAVC1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
I got bit with this news today regaring my 1989 XJ Laredo. Note this vintage XJ has the vacuum disconnect front axle.

Apparently, the ft. wheel bearings are okay for continued use. I was told the shop typically beats these up so bad trying to get at the ft. U-joints they replace both. Seems like an exercise to pull money from my wallet!

It's clear that the best thing to do is to use Timken tapered roller bearings if I replace the bearings.

My question is, "Can I access the u-joints without damaging the wheel bearings?" This sounds like a need for special, costly tool!

Please advise.

Thanks,

Rick
 
The "wheel bearings" you refer to are commonly called unit bearings. While they can be a bit of a pain to get out, there is no reason they should be damaged. The tool can be had as part of the tool loaner program from Autozone for a deposit only. It is a slide hammer that screws onto the lug nuts and is used to pop the unit bearing out. The key is to leave the axle nut in place. A search on this should yield tons of info.
 
Tom,

Thanks for the tip regarding leaving the axle nut installed. I already own a Snap-On slide hammer & puller set so it appears I have the tool needed. I was just hoping I could find a tool that would press the hub assembly off (effectively the opposite of an arbor press).

I'll search the archives as I think I even saw the Timken part numbers I'll need before.

Thanks again,

Rick
 
The unit bearings should come out fairly easily once you remove the three retaining screws (you'll need either a 12m/m or 13m/m 12-point socket, I don't recall,) and the axle hub nut. You can isolate the hub nut (and keep the axle shaft from turning) either by having a helper stand on the brake pedal, or by putting a bit of bar stock through the yoke ears.

Torque the retaining bolts for the unit bearing assembly to 75 pound-feet, and the axle hub nut to 175 pound-feet. The hub assembly should pull out fairly easily - you can use either a slide hammer (work lightly) or an old wheel as a slide hammer to pull the hub loose, if it doesn't come right out. If you have to replace them, expect a new unit bearing assembly to run right around $100 (you'll want two...)

The universal joints should run ~$15 each (you'll want two of those as well...) and they're fairly easy to replace if you have a C-frame U-joint press, a vise and sockets to fit, or a shop press and receiving plates.

It takes longer to R&I the shafts than it does to change the joints, and if you coat the caps on the new joints with never-seez, you'll have an easier time changing them next time (I find never-seez useful - I just rarely use it on screw threads...)

5-90
 
Unfortunately, I was not able to locate much with the search utility for this repair work.

It appears removing the (3) bearing carrier bolts behind the hub is the difficult (or a difficult) part of this job. Removing rust from the bolt heads and the threaded part of the bolts extending through the hub and applying plentiful amounts of penetrating oil are recommended in what I was able to find.

My big concern is getting the old unit bearings pressed out and replacement Timken parts pressed back into the hub without damaging either the hub or one of the bearings.

Any other issues I need to be aware of? The FSM does instruct you to remove the axle shaft from the tube. However, I have to ask is this really necessary? It seems once you get the outer hub axle shaft out of the way a solid c-clamp should be able to remove the old universal joints (and have the needed clearance). I could be wrong but it seems a vise does not have that much more strength than a c-clamp.

Clearly, heat is a bad idea in the location of the hub because of the presence of the unit bearing seals.

Rick
 
If you're going to replace the U-joints, you will have to pull the shafts out. If you're just changing bearings, you don't need to pull the halfshafts - just the halfshaft nuts.

Remember, i fyou use never-seez, torque the bolts to about HALF of the listed value - ~38 pound-feet for the hub bearing retainer screws, and ~88 pound-feet for the axle shaft nut. That's one place I do use never-seez on screw threads - when they're likely to get wet, hot, dirty, and quite a few other things that make them difficult to remove later. Might as well put a coat on the bore in the knuckle as well - so the bearing assembly will be easier to remove next time.

Always assume that the next poor schmuck to work on something will be you, and you're going to be away from your toolkit. That makes it a LOT easier the next time you get into things...

5-90
 
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