some help with re-build plan

It’s time to re-build or at least re-do some things. I’ve trimmed the fenders with the old cut a fold method. I’m at about 4.5” of lift, stock control arms, lowered transfer case with stock drive train 4:56 gears and 8.25 axels. Not looking to lift anymore if I can get the 33’s to fit and have some travel.
Looking to get the tcase back where it belongs. To do this I’ll have to do some form of SYE. Output shaft replacement or H&T
Replace the stock LCA’s with some adjustable arm’s. JKS or RE
Also hope to buy/build a rear bumper with tire carrier.
Install TJ flairs which brings me to my next choice. What BS to run, if I go 4.25 “ with a 12.50 tire it would probably look wrong because the TJ flairs will stick out more. I also have a set of 3.75 but will this be to far and limit flex, both sets of wheels are 8” wide.
I’m looking for some input from folks whom have experience with SYE’s . I know those who have installed the shaft kit will say it’s the only way to go but is that because no one wants to admit they could have done it with the H&T or have they had a bad experience with H&T? I know about Tom Woods policy.

With the LCA’s I’m leaning towards the JKS’s but are they worth the extra cost over the RE? Also how do measure to get these adjusted right, is it wheel base or is there some other point to measure from?

Since I’ll have Bessie apart should I just go ahead and give her another inch or two of lift, I could get away with 1 ½ blocks in the rear and just adjust up front, or will that put me over some threshold that will require me to make more changes?

Hey,

as for 33" tires on 4.5" lift, yes you can definitely fit them. i am running a RE6130 lift with 33x10.50 swampers with 2" bumpstops and i can bumpstop the tires at full lock without rubbing. i have trimmed like crazy, tho. if you havent trimmed as much as me, then you might need a inch more bumpstop.

as for LCA length, at the bottom of this page, there is a chart to help you. remember all jeeps are different, this is just a guide. http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html

SYE....Just suck it up and throw out the coin for the AA or tom woods HD SYE. rebuilding a transfer case is easy. AA sends very good instructions with their kit and you cant really screw it up. took me about a day to pull the transfer case, rebuild it, SYE it, throw it back it, shim the axle, and change driveshafts. no experience with H&T, but i know my 32 spline HD shaft is bulletproof.

HTH

-Tim

Re: some help with lift re-build plan

What's a lot of trimming? I'm not worried about the front really but the rear you can only go so far. I've removed up the the pinch welds then folded another 1" 1/2 under the close spot is front and rear of the well.

Re: some help with lift re-build plan

gabe4 said:

What's a lot of trimming? I'm not worried about the front really but the rear you can only go so far. I've removed up the the pinch welds then folded another 1" 1/2 under the close spot is front and rear of the well.

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Gabe, you've seen my rear fenders. I think that's about as far as you can go without needing to weld. This is a pic before the Herculiner:



I did the cut-and-fold method all the way around the fenderwell.

yep that's where I'm at. I know if I bump stop right I'll be ok but i won't have much travel.

Anyone have a issue with a Hack&tap

don't break the tap in the hole like i did

I highly recommend going with a long arm upgrade instead of adjustable short arms. You will regret it in the future....like me.

lobsterdmb said:

don't break the tap in the hole like i did

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Ouch what did you end up doing replacing the shaft or could you get the tap out?

TRAILREADYXJ said:

I highly recommend going with a long arm upgrade instead of adjustable short arms. You will regret it in the future....like me.

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This has crossed my mind but I just can't convince myself the extra cost will be worth it. Each control arm is the cost of both short arms plus the cross member.

gabe4 said:

This has crossed my mind but I just can't convince myself the extra cost will be worth it. Each control arm is the cost of both short arms plus the cross member.

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You can find RK 3 link upgrades for around $400, that's not far from a good set of adjustable uppers and lowers.
And IMO the "extra" cost would definitly be worth it, especially if you ever want to go higher than 4.5".

gabe4 said:

Anyone have a issue with a Hack&tap

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My friend has one with not issues. With a Tom Woods Drive shaft. You didn't mention the year. The older t-case needs a seal and that brings the cost of the H&T to the PORC SYE.

Matt

it's

it's a 98

gabe4 said:

it's a 98

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According to the RE catalogue Pre 1996 needs the seal you should be OK if you go this route.

gabe4 said:

Ouch what did you end up doing replacing the shaft or could you get the tap out?

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My friend had his shaft lying around from when he did his heavy duty hack and tap so we took it too a machine shop and drilled and tapped it on a lathe. Then I had to pull the case apart and replace it. In the long run, I should have just gone with the HD. That way my spare driveshaft would work front or rear. The PORC sye wasn't out when I didn mine but it is a great price for a HD SYE in my opinion. The only benefit of the Hack and tap is that you don't have to split the case or remove it from the vehicle if you don't break a drill bit or tap. This was the first thing I had ever tried to tap so I think my inexperience had something to do with it too.

lobsterdmb said:

In the long run, I should have just gone with the HD. That way my spare driveshaft would work front or rear.

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This is a good point to look at. What set up will allow me to carry just one DS for front and year.

gabe4 said:

This is a good point to look at. What set up will allow me to carry just one DS for front and rear.

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I installed the PORC last fall. My spare front shaft bolted right in (I still haven't picked up a new spare...) I've been very happy with it.

For arms, I run LA's and wouldn't look back, but they definitely aren't necessary. Have you thought about RE's drop brackets? From rigs I've ridden in I've found that RE adj. arms with the drop brackets were a close second to my LA's on-road, close enough that it may have just been the different spring/shock combos that gave them the different ride. Off road was more noticable, with the big difference being the amount of flex, but they still performed great.

About getting more room in the rear. You mentioned that you're at 4.5" of lift, is that with just the leaves, or are you running longer shackles as well? If you aren't, that would be a better option than lift blocks.

nhrocker said:

I installed the PORC last fall. My spare front shaft bolted right in (I still haven't picked up a new spare...) I've been very happy with it.

For arms, I run LA's and wouldn't look back, but they definitely aren't necessary. Have you thought about RE's drop brackets? From rigs I've ridden in I've found that RE adj. arms with the drop brackets were a close second to my LA's on-road, close enough that it may have just been the different spring/shock combos that gave them the different ride. Off road was more noticable, with the big difference being the amount of flex, but they still performed great.

About getting more room in the rear. You mentioned that you're at 4.5" of lift, is that with just the leaves, or are you running longer shackles as well? If you aren't, that would be a better option than lift blocks.

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I have a 3" leaf with 1.75" shackle. I see a lot of discontent for blocks, they say it hurts spring life not sure why, the spring dosen't care what ti sits on the blocks are the same as a perch welded to the tube. I wouln't want to go more the 2" but again I would to not add anything but if I had to the blocks would be cheap and would work until I replaced the spring.

I haven't really given drop brackets much thought I'll have to do some research to learn more about them.

gabe4 said:

I see a lot of discontent for blocks, they say it hurts spring life not sure why,

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Because they act like a lever causing axle wrap (axle twisting due to the torque applied) and twisting the leaves forming a lovely "S" curve.
This could be avoided with a traction bar, but that would limit flex some depending on the design.

Spring perches with extra height will still have the same problem. The only advantage is they won't pop out like blocks can do.