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97+ Removeable POWER Doors

S

saybye

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Soddy Daisy TN
ok so i removed the hinge pins and replaced them with 5/16 pull pins and it works awesome. but i had to cut all wires leading to windows, locks, etc. all i want power back to are the windows and the locks, on the driver side. their all color coated, so does anyone know what wires control the windows and locks? figured id ask 1st before i went for the taunting task of plug and play. :wow:
 
It's kinda late now, but the plugs are under the d/s kick panel, all you had to do was pull that piece out and unplug the harness.

Got a FSM or Chiltons? That will be your best bet.
 
that figures, thats just my luck. daaaamn. o well, thanks anyways! is it like this for the passenger side too? cause if so then atleast i can have power to that side for the time being...
 
Yes. I've taken my doors off several times this way, just pull the kick panels and unplug the harness, then pull the connectors and the boot away with the door. Back doors too, connections are at the base of the pillars behind the seat belt retractor.
 
saybye said:
ok so i removed the hinge pins and replaced them with 5/16 pull pins and it works awesome. but i had to cut all wires leading to windows, locks, etc. all i want power back to are the windows and the locks, on the driver side. their all color coated, so does anyone know what wires control the windows and locks? figured id ask 1st before i went for the taunting task of plug and play. :wow:
Click to expand...
You have any issues lining the door back up? Door alignment is fine? I am thinking of doing this but heard that the door will not line back up correctly afterwards?
 
door lines up fine, tighten the bolts down to where the door will still move around in the adjusters, shut the door and get it just right, then open it and finish tightening
 
saybye said:
ok so i removed the hinge pins and replaced them with 5/16 pull pins and it works awesome. but i had to cut all wires leading to windows, locks, etc. all i want power back to are the windows and the locks, on the driver side. their all candy coated, so does anyone know what wires control the windows and locks? figured id ask 1st before i went for the taunting task of plug and play. :wow:
Click to expand...

fixed and delicious
 
ran down to the hardware store and bought some connectors and reconnected everything i cut on the driver side, a huge pain in the ass and a waste of time, but its finally done and all windows/locks work fine.

yeah the doors line up just like they did before. i used a dremel to cut the factory pins off. as long as you make sure you bolt the hinges back in the exact place then the doors should line up the exact same...
 
door.jpg
 
I probably should have mentioned this in my first post, but I used 4-flat trailer harnesses as quick disconnects for the wiring on my old XJ. It made it easier for me since I had the cage A pillar bar running right in front of the kick panels.

HPIM0824.jpg
 
so heres another question... how many people have wheeled with their doors off for the first couple of times, only to get back to the house and find out that the doors dont line back up like they should? i havent wheeled mine yet, but was planning on it this weekend. should i get frame stiffners or does it not make that big of a difference. nothing an internal cage cant fix, but i was talking to some friends and we figured it prolly wouldnt be a bad idea to do one or the other...
 
i've wheeled mine quite a bit with no doors and havent had any issues. having said that, stiffeners or a cage is always a good thing and i'll be installing stiffeners this spring. i don't think the doors are very structural but it's all arguable. ever open the back hatch with your rig flexed out? good luck closing it. ha ha. always seems to work fine on flat ground afterwards though.
 
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