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Brakes WONT bleed!

J

joeyschribar

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Edmonton
On the rear brake lines, the rubber hose that connects to the T-connector on my diff, i removed tha brake line, and drove it around my yard a bit to get it out of the way, i just put a paior of vice grips on the line so fluid wouldn't leak past and it would not suck in air.,

then at a later time i added a new longer brake line and also put new steel ones across the axle into the rear brake cylenders, and as well put new cylenders.

i DID install the cylenders with the bleeder to the top of the vehicle.

now, when i try to bleed the brakes im not getting any fluid moving down the lines at all.

also, when i pump the pedal 3 times it get tougher but i can still depress it half way or more, and then it stiffens up.

It never really gets rock solid at the top.
I think i might of sucked air way back into the system now and i cant seem to bleed the brakes.
the resivoir is filled to the top with fluid and does not seem to go down even after 40 to 50 tries of bleeding the brakes.

Just wondering if there is another bleeder on the prop. valve or something that i might need to bleed first in order to let the fluid pass down the steel line to the back.

Thanks!
 
Did the MC ever run dry? You definately have air in the lines. Are you bleeding them traditionally..RR..LR..RF..LF or are you using a tool like a Mighty-Vac in which case you should reverse that order.
I've had real stubborn ones where I had to gravity bleed them, open all the bleeders and let them drain overnight, you just have to make sure the MC doesn't run dry, I really don't like this method but have done it.
 
yea i just tried bleeding the rear ones.

the pedal goes almost to the floor then firms right up and i can lock up the front tires.

so i figured that i dont need to bleed the front its all in the back.
maybe i will try to vaccum bleed them
i doubt the MC ever ran dry, as i have never added fluid to the resivoir and its right at the top.

the brake light is on the dash telling me the rear circuit has air in the system, which line on the prop. valve goes to the rears?
what do you think of me just finding that line and then getting my girlfriend to press the brakes, then i will crack that line open, watch for fluid to come out, then close the line, and she will release the brakes.
 
If you are looking down at the prop. valve its the line closet to the front of the vehicle on the bottom of the valve.
You added a lot of new,EMPTY line....theres probably a ton of air in the there. You have to get the new rubber line and metal lines full of fluid before you'll get a proper bleed. Doesn't seem like much but that is a whole lot air to get out.
Try opening both rear bleeders and wait 'til you get fluid coming out, then close that one and wait for the other, don't pump the pedal, let gravity do the work, once again I do not like this method but sometimes on a stubborn bleed this will help.
If you a vac. bleeder then have at it and suck the hell out them bad boys....lol
 
ok gravity bleed it is!!!!!!
i wont bother with trying to crack open any lines on the prop. valve yet if i dont need to
tomorrow im buying a vaccum brake bleeder so i should be good to go also.

ill just have to buy a 6 pack and watch and wait haha!
about how long should i leave the bleeder screws open, and also should i totally unthread them or just crack it open 1/4 turn?

oh yea, while gravity bleeding shoulf the cap on the resivoir be open or closed
Thanks for your time!
 
Cap off, open bleeders about 1/2 turn, enough to make sure fluid can run out unimpaired, minium one hour prob. longer because of the amount of air., slow process but it does help get out those stubborn air bubbles. Make sure to keep an eye on the reservoirs that they do not run dry.
 
I have seen brake boosters go bad and as you pump the pedal, it pushes air into the rear brake line. It will never bleed, you just keep pumping air in.
 
ok i ran the MC dry, i have one sitting right next to me installed on a parts rig would it be easier to take that one out, swap it with mine, and would i be able to traditionally bleed the brakes from each wheel at the wheel cylenders or will i have to bench bleed that MC as well?
 
You can just bleed the one thats on there, you can take it off and bench bleed it in no time if you want. You can actually bleed it on the vehicle, but you have to be careful, or you can take the one off the donor vehicle, make sure it does not run dry and it should connect right up and bleeding of the MC will be not necessary, REMEMBER.....NEVER push the brake pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding or push the piston all the way in when bench bleeding, you can render your MC useless in a heartbeat.
Its gonna take you little longer to bleed them now, the line from the MC to the rears is now empty,but just think, that line will now be flushed.
You can try the same method again (gravity bleed) but if you do, drink your six pack sitting on the fender and watching the MC...lol
 
joeyschribar said:
On the rear brake lines, the rubber hose that connects to the T-connector on my diff, ------ i just put a paior of vice grips on the line so fluid wouldn't leak past and it would not suck in air.,

Good chance you ruptured the internal cores of the rubber hose, plugging it up! Putting vise grips on a rubber brake hose is not recommended.
Follow Dizzymac's advice. If you still can't get fluid to the rears, you will probably have to replace the rubber hose.
Click to expand...
 
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