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New control arms not needed?????

D

drifto77

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sherman,TX.
I was looking for an Old Man Emu lift and found this. (see link @ bottom)
It says you dont need to get new control arms for up to 5" of lift.
The stock ones will work. (?)

From the link.....
"Jeep engineered the Cherokee to be lifted. They knew we would be coming along craving more elevation and designed the front control arm mounting system with enough adjustability to accommodate up to 5" of lift with the stock control arms. You can pay more for some if you want to throw away money, but the bottom line is that they are not needed and the stock arms do excellent."

How are the stock arm adjustable?
What gives?
What are your thoughts on this lift?
(i already know O.M.E. is suposta be one of IF NOT the best)

Would this be a complete lift, or is there anything else you would need to complete it? (besides the front disco's.)

Here is the link.....
http://rocky-road.com/xjtrailblazer.html

Thanks
icon12.gif
 
its possible to run stock control arms, but your caster will be off, the front axle will be pulled in a bunch and it wont ride very well, or flex very well for that matter. ive ridden in an XJ with stock UCAs and LCAs on 4"s of lift, and u felt every single bump in the road. the unibody absorbed every dip in the road. do it the "right way" and get longer control arms if u lift it above 3"s


im not sure how theyre adjustable in relation to caster and stuff for alignments (i think spacers but im not sure).
 
stock arms are not adjustable.
the quality of their website is an indication of the product in this case....

i would NOT go with that lift... it says its $800 also....
rough country or rustys would be a step up from this kit
 
The Cherokee was designed to be lifted? Seriously?

I noticed a difference in ride quallity after putting on longer lower control arms. Wouldn't think about more than 3". On the highway, the wandering got cut in half after the new arms.

I think the only adjustability in the stock lower arms are those small bolts on the back of the control arm mount. I think they move the mounting hole forward and backward. Not 100% sure though.
 
I think the only adjustability in the stock lower arms are those small bolts on the back of the control arm mount. I think they move the mounting hole forward and backward. Not 100% sure though
Click to expand...
.

:Yup, that's hwo you adjust the castor. Loosen bolts and add or remove shims. Check MadXJ's site or search for how to do alignment.
 
I dunno about it being better than Rustys or RC....

but #1, Rocky Road is terrible....

order from www.dpgoffroad.com - get one of his hybrid kits if you are looking for more than 2-3 inches of lift.
 
bmyohn said:
its possible to run stock control arms, but your caster will be off, the front axle will be pulled in a bunch and it wont ride very well, or flex very well for that matter. ive ridden in an XJ with stock UCAs and LCAs on 4"s of lift, and u felt every single bump in the road. the unibody absorbed every dip in the road. do it the "right way" and get longer control arms if u lift it above 3"s


im not sure how theyre adjustable in relation to caster and stuff for alignments (i think spacers but im not sure).
Click to expand...
Just from stuff i have read on this site it just seemed like the stock arm would be too short, just for that reason. thats why I was ask'in.

smilies-15131.png


I have heard nothing but GOOD about Rubicon Express and that was the way I was thinking about going to start off with.
ylsuper.gif

Just do'in my homework.
icon12.gif
 
another question........

with RE's 4" kit (RE6030 kit- Basic)....
it says...
"*Slip Yoke Eliminator and "CV" style drive shaft strongly recommended on '96 and newer XJ's."
(i know, .... no brainer)

What about a X-case lowering and shims?
could i do that for the "vibes" successfully so i dont have to do the SYE and CV right off the bat? and how much of each would i need? (approx)
 
xcm said:
nobody said it was better then rc or rustys, go re-read what your responding to
Click to expand...

Yeah...my bad, i meant "I dunno about Rustys or RC being better than OME..."

Regardless of the lift, if you go higher than 3 inches or so and dont get new CAs, the ride is gonna suck (x11-ty billion, as has been already stated)

Thanks XCM :cheers:
 
drifto77 said:
another question........

with RE's 4" kit (RE6030 kit- Basic)....
it says...
"*Slip Yoke Eliminator and "CV" style drive shaft strongly recommended on '96 and newer XJ's."
(i know, .... no brainer)

What about a X-case lowering and shims?
could i do that for the "vibes" successfully so i dont have to do the SYE and CV right off the bat? and how much of each would i need? (approx)
Click to expand...

The 96+ model TC use a different style TC output shaft - they tend to not respond as well to a TC drop/shims and a SYE is a better solution.

Besides, then you dont lose an inch of ground clearance and you dont put the added stress on your motor mounts....
 
JNickel101 said:
The 96+ model TC use a different style TC output shaft - they tend to not respond as well to a TC drop/shims and a SYE is a better solution.

Besides, then you dont lose an inch of ground clearance and you dont put the added stress on your motor mounts....
Click to expand...
Just the answer I was looking for, Thanks.
never thought about the motor mounts with the x-case drop.
With the SYE... that means a drive shaft also... right?
or can i do one out of an xj with a manual trans?
 
Nope, you want a front driveshaft from an 89-01 XJ with AW4 trans...

http://www.crownautomotive.net/catalog/axle/propeller_shafts2.html

Grand Cherokee shafts work too, they are about an inch or so longer...

the one from an XJ you want has a collapsed length of 30.660" and the part number is:
53005542

Oh ya, and this mod works best if you have the AW4 and Chry 8.25 rear (has a longer pinion length than the D35) - if you have the AX15 and/or the D35, you will have to get one of those ZJ shafts - there's one that says its 33" but I dont know if it is the right kind (CV joint - double cardan)
 
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