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If you were rebuilding/customizing 88 Cherokee Pioneer....Technicaly speaking...

Raceghost

NAXJA Forum User
Location
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Hello all, and this is my first post in NAXJA.

I have a 1988 Cherokee Pioneer, that I am currently in the middle of rebuilding/modifing to be a decent UAV. I am having a little difficulty locating parts, or the right parts for my vehicle, concidering that there were so many wide range parts available. Need a lot of guidance as to what to be looking for. Manufacturer isnt really a biggie, since most of the parts going on here are made by multiples, I just need peticulars of what to look for, and then who will be decided by whats available. So if you would look over what I have, what I have done to start, and maybe give me a great direction to travel on this project, or what would be the smart, or best move for preping to the next step, that would be great.

The goods:
88 Cherokee Pioneer 4x4 (4) door with Rear Lift Gate
4.0L with full rebuild. 5000 miles on motor(1st rebuild)/151000 Chassis
Pace Setter Headers with Aero Muffler (Corsa Design)
Pro Comp 3" Lift with 255/70/16 Yokohama Geolander AT-S
PW 140 Amp Alternator
PW Torquemaster XS Starter
Red Top
Power Slot slotted brake rotors and new pads

Issues(no peticular order):
Chasing the short of a life time, replaced with NEW parts:
Ignition module(OEM)/coil, Starter, Alternator, Charging wire, Ground wires, ignition column/key switch. (May have solved by ordering a different pulley for the Alt. worried it might not be charging fully the battery, (3) mechanincs have had it on there systems, wtih no issues in the electrical system) Sometimes it just wont fire. You will go out, put the key in, here the buzz of the ignition and turn it, with not even a single crank. revers the roll of the key back to the off, and return, and it tries to start... I have tried several anticks, and sometimes it fires, and sometimes it don't. I have also replaced the CPS 3 times in the last year. I dont really ever here the fuel pump either.

Fuel pump observation or interesting issue:
When I do get it started after a few minutes of the ignition fun, I pull it out of the garage, walk around the back of the jeep to put some stuff away in the garage. When I look under the jeep, the fuel pump seems to pump about a pint of gasoline out of the hose headed towards the front of the vehicle. Its right on the edge of the tank where the hose clamps or connects to travel forward. It has enough pressure to stretch the hose, and leak. I had it checked out, and the lines are ok, and the clamp is ok...I am not sure how it is doing it, but it does. It doesnt do this all the time, but some times. Leads me to believe that the fuel pump/pressure regulator also may be going bad, and be giving some added simptoms to the battery, charging, electrical issue.

Braking system seems to be all on the front, and has some issues of not stopping fast enough, with brake fade. Dont really feel anything coming from the rear. thinking it might have something to do with the 4whd and vacuum pressure.

4 Wheel drive does not engage. Looking into vacuum leak, and /or possible replacment of NP231 unit with Atlas or Rebuild, not sure who to go with either on this one.

If I start it, let it idle for a few, and then rev the motor with some short bursts, after 1 - 2 revs, and I let complety off the gas, everything starts to lug, lumber, dim, fade, etc. Motor dips in idle severly, battery gauge dips to 9 v, lights dim, etc. Possible linked to the Alt. pulley or charging system not fully charging.

Steering as always been a litle wierd or floaty. Now with the lift, it tightened up, but its now binding, and at times, will float. I have been meening to replace the steering gear box, stearing pump, Tie Rod, and steering wheel. The bushings on the tie rod are cracked. I have been looking at Rustys Tie Rod conversion, or stock Tie Rod Replacement. Not sure what it takes to do the over the knuckle conversion, and if I am confusing that with the Rustys Tie Rod, etc.

Chassis Squeeking an whineing, and most of the door/window seal's have started to show significant wear.

Parts I am looking to buy within the next couple months:
Energy Suspension Master Kit #: 218105 (http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2.18105)
Steel Braided Brake lines (Looking for good manufacturer)
AGR Super Box 2 #: 262352 (SUPERBOX2 )
AGR TCPump #: 816256 (TCPUMP )
Rustys Steering Brace: (RS-SB75-XJhttp://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/mercha...stys&Product_Code=SUPERBOX2&Category_Code=ste)
Rustys Replacment Tie Rod (RS-STRPK )/Conversion Tie Rod (RS-SC250-UV)/Over The knuckle steering conversion (RS-SC300-UV), not sure what I need...
Carter Fuel Pump (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRT-P74155http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/mercha...stys&Product_Code=SUPERBOX2&Category_Code=ste)
+ anything else that is a must ot clear most of the issues I described above.

Any help from anyone here would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Everyone of your links goes to the Super Box 2...
 
Do a search here on NAXJA & most feedback you find on Rusty's will be negative. My first & last experience with them was they sent all the wrong parts & it took like 45 days to get a credit after I send everything back they couldn't find it even though Rusty signed for it him self. Just a bad experience & hear the same from others.. Just my 2 cents...

You can build your own OTK set up for about 1/2 of what Rusty's is asking, there was a thread somewhere here on that new HD steering.
 
I guess on the steering, any reason I need to do that, or is it just one of those add-ins to think of. With my present setup, do I need to do so?

Anyone got any info on the issues I am having? Or suggestions...?

Thanks again
 
for the brakes, swap in a wj(1999-2004 grand cherokee) brake booster and master cylinder. do a search, one of the best upgrades ive done on my 89.

do this swap and you wont need slotted rotors if your running 31-32" tires, just get good pads.
 
I'm new to XJ's but have an '88 Limited I picked up in November and have been chasing stalling/rough idle/etc problems on and can comment on a couple of your questions, with the qualification that I'm no expert!

The no-start, no-crank issue sounds like an NSS switch - if it's an auto. You can clean or replace them, I haven't done mine yet but if you search NSS* you should find plenty of info on how to do it (you need the asterisk because the search engine here only recognizes searches with more than 3 characters). What the NSS switch does is tell the jeep you're in Park, which is required for it to start. The other thing it could be is a bad ballast resistor, which is the little white ceramic thing on the drivers side fender in the engine bay. All it does is quiet down the fuel pump, you can jumper or hard wire the two wires together and it'll be just fine, just slightly louder when the fuel pump primes.

Fuel pump leaking - replace the flex lines between the pump and the fuel filter with quality fuel line. Also replace the fuel filter, it could be clogged and causing excessive backpressure in the line.

Brakes on these jeeps are weak, single diaphragm boosters and rear drums don't make for superior stopping power. The cheapest first step is to make sure everything is working properly, if the rear drums' brake cylinders are original they're probably leaking and/or working poorly. Start with replacing them, along with the brake hardware (sold in a kit form at the parts stores - springs, etc) and then bleed all 4 brakes until there's fresh fluid all the way around. The performance upgrade is to replace the single diaphragm booster with a double diaphragm, but that takes some fab work.

4wd: would start with inspecting the transfer case linkage between the body of the jeep and the transfer case. You could be right about the vacuum leak, you probably have a vacuum disconnect front axle. Search will tell you a lot about how to repair or replace it.

Idle rev/low idle/bogging problem: sounds a lot like the random stalling issue I was having. Start with cleaning your IAC valve, then diagnose and consider replacing the TPS, MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator, plugs, cap & rotor. LUNGHD has a great site with lots of diagnostic info. Two comments: 1) you can't get OBD-II info out of the Renix era jeeps (which yours is) but the computer data can be read in real time with a Snap-On 2500 (if I recall correctly) that *SOME* garages will have. If you're having a goofy idle/fuel delivery/running rough issue it might be worth spending a little bit to get it diagnosed. 2) the TPS has to be adjusted if you remove or uninstall it - lunghd's site has info on how to do it. His site is:
http://www.lunghd.com/ then go to "on site tech" and look for the info on Renix sensors.

Also, you said the engine was rebuilt but you didn't say if that included cleaning all the grounds, replacing the battery grounding cable, etc. If not, definitely do that - I believe I had a thread on here "main grounds to clean" (or it may have been on JU) that overviewed where they were.

Steering: skip Rusty's and buy a decent brand like Currie (no I don't work for them, it's just my personal experience & personal opinion). I have the currie steering on my TJ and it's beefy. I put my stock TJ steering on the XJ, it works good except the trackbar couldn't be used because the taper on the stud end (frame end) of the trackbar is different. Tie rod and drag link worked fine though and are a good upgrade over the XJ stock.

Hope this helps get you started. I would spend some time getting it to run good, not leak gas, steer and brake well before putting any more into upgrades you outlined, but that's just my personal opinion. Sensors & small parts can really add up.
 
swap in a wj(1999-2004 grand cherokee) brake booster and master cylinder

Thank you 89wj. I was thinking of that, and was still looking for the qualified parts or swap out years.

Cr Jeepin,
Thank you as well. I am looking into all this as we speak.
On that brake setup that 89wj lists, is this similiar to what you were thinking, or a different set up all together?
Oh and yes, I replaced with a bigger ground cable, charge cable, etc.
Rustys uses AGR steering components, and most importantly, I can get them other places...Are they ok?, I see them on a lot of stuff?
 
i got the wj booster and master from the junkyard for $80.

its a dual daipram booster and fits in the stock location without doing any mods to the windsheild washer bottle. only small mods needed to be done to the opening in the firewall, drill larger hole(5/8) in the booster rod and bend and double flare new brake lines from the master to the proportioning valve. not a hard job.
 
You live around or in Orange County, preferably the north end...

haven't got a clue about a
bend and double flare new brake lines from the master to the proportioning valve. not a hard job.

:helpme: needed. Never done brakes, had the shops do them...
 
Raceghost said:
You live around or in Orange County, preferably the north end...

haven't got a clue about a

:helpme: needed. Never done brakes, had the shops do them...

do a google search for the a double flare tool and a how to procedure. should be able to find a detailed write up.

no hard to do a double flare, just takes practise.
 
Raceghost said:
You live around or in Orange County, preferably the north end...

haven't got a clue about a

:helpme: needed. Never done brakes, had the shops do them...

Flaring brake lines is easy enough. I could teach you in about 6 minutes, but I'm not going to be wrenching for a couple of weeks.
 
Thanks for that Cal. Nice in Pasadena too. I ride 51's (Honda RC51 Sport bike)with a guy from there.

I think I found another issue, as I have been readin gmost posts in the modified forum...lots o reading. Great info though too.
Either way, my latest find is ont he thermostat...caugh, rolling of the eyes...
I had a 160 put in when I rebuilt her, thinking like the old racecar motors, etc.
Could this be the cause of some of those weird idle, shut off, etc?
 
Put a 195 in there and see what happens yeah. If its not warm enough, the computer is going to do funky things to try and warm it up.


And not just pasadena, fullerton on the weekends.. ;)
 
Im still rolling Idaho Plates, and I do roll through fullerton every now and again. Thanks again, trying that now. The fuel pressure regulator checks out, the fuel pump checks out, the fuel filter is changed, so having them put a 195 back in it....see what happens.
 
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