Clutch issues / question

OK brain trust - here's the issue:
Nov 2007 I had to replace the master and slave cylinders but not the actual clutch in my 89 XJ.

The issue was the pedal went tot he fire wall and would not disengage the clutch to shift. Late December 2007 it needed adjustment - no issues new parts (in my mind) need a little adjustment after break in.

Fast forward to this week over the last 5 days it's gotten so bad - exhibiting the original issue, pedal to the floor and still not disengagement, now I need it towed back to the shop that did the work (he says it's all under warranty) to repair it again.

Could the clutch be so warn that it needs to be replaced?
Or what do you think could cause the resurface of the pedal to the floor issue - again?

sounds like a slow leak in the line somewhere or your master or slave is going out again. is it your original clutch? if so you might want to look into replacing it anyway.

To make a long story short I just went through the same thing went on for about a month. 2 intunal slaves later I finely swaped to a 1999 bellhousing with an extunal slave its like a new jeep no more pulling trans to work on it

Luke

The master was bleeding by in the rear, so he is putting another new one in, while he's in there I'm having him replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel.

$$$$$$ = Sucks.

But she'll be good for another 200K miles.

jeez this sucks. im having the same issues. i replaced the master which was leaking that did not help a thing.

Tate, for what it's worth we replaced the master, the slave the flywheel and the clutch.

It works great and pulls like an ox now.
And now it's time to pay the bills....

aperwork

RTFM said:

Tate, for what it's worth we replaced the master, the slave the flywheel and the clutch.

It works great and pulls like an ox now.
And now it's time to pay the bills....

aperwork

Click to expand...

Looks like i need to do a slave. i figure since i already did the master it couldent hurt. The reason that i hesitate to do that is that i have absolutly no fluid loss now that i did the master. it is possible that i simply need to bleed it again.

A word of caution--if your clutch MC was leaking arround the rear push rod, more than likely that fluid ended up on your fuse block. If yes, you need to thoroughly clean the fuse block with something like brakleen; otherwise, in time, your fuses will start falling apart, or they will not make electrical contact.

xjbubba has wise words. Might try using electrical contact cleaner. Doesn't affect plastics like brake cleaner could.

I have the same problem. I did the ax-15 swap last weekend on my 89 with all new clutch parts and it was impossable to get into 1st 2nd and rev. I tried bleeding it over and over again even jacked up the back end 2ft to do it.

Now it shifts fine when it is cold, like 5deg C, and gets worse after I drive for about half hour.

I read in another post to use a Phenix bleed tool that pushes fluid from the bleed nipple up. The tool is expensive so I took a bike tube with a Presta valve and cut it to fit in a cap of a water bottle and used it as a squeeze bottle to push fluid up.

I saw small air bubbles come into the mater cylinder but not that much.

I also found the rubber plug the lines come thru on the bell housing was not fit in so the lines were moving with the bouncing truck so the orings on th slave my have been leaking due to that.

I am of to Vancouver to road test and hit Commercial Drive to pick up "supplies".