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Another Long Arm Thread

M

mud1059

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Graham/Kapowsin, WA
I've read countless threads on long arms and 3 links. I just don't trust my engineering capabilities for a 3 link, so long arm it is. My question is this: I have a Rusty's crossmember I plan on using on my "trail only" rig. (From time to time it has to be driven home when a non-trailered rig breaks on the trail.) Which joints should I use? I've read Johnny's, Superflex, heims, stock rubbers, a combination between the four blah blah blah. The bottom line is the rig gets beat religiously, what will work out the best for me? I appreciate your help and apologize if I've missed this topic covered before.

Thanks again,
Paul
 
Long arm it is? Do you mean radius long arm it is? I'm Running SF's on a rusty xmember. OEM on axle. I like it. I wouldn't mind flex joints jj or sf on both ends either. Check out the bds tru 4link
 
Id run rubber joints on the axle end, and a flex joint on the 'frame' end. Currie Johnny Joints seem to be a fair price, with the threaded stud already cast in. Stock style rubbers. If you are doing a radius setup, leave the rubber ones on the axle, and run small RE flex joints for the upper arms.

Stealing some pipe from Josh's cage for the arms? ;)
 
CanMan said:
Id run rubber joints on the axle end, and a flex joint on the 'frame' end. Currie Johnny Joints seem to be a fair price, with the threaded stud already cast in. Stock style rubbers. If you are doing a radius setup, leave the rubber ones on the axle, and run small RE flex joints for the upper arms.

Stealing some pipe from Josh's cage for the arms? ;)
Click to expand...
Bad idea,No need and extra cost.A radius arm set-up needs to be able to move during flex(binding).RE also offers threaded blanks and are much easier to rebuild/adjust.
 
RCP Phx said:
Bad idea,No need and extra cost.A radius arm set-up needs to be able to move during flex(binding).RE also offers threaded blanks and are much easier to rebuild/adjust.
Click to expand...

Not 100% I'm getting what you're trying to say. Are you saying that all the flex on a radius arm would be on the main flex joint located on the frame side. The upper arm just moves with the main lower arm and thus don't need it's own flex joint? I did notice that on the RE long arm kit, the upper arms are the normal SR adjustable upper arms rather than SF adjustable arms.
 
gorman said:
Not 100% I'm getting what you're trying to say. Are you saying that all the flex on a radius arm would be on the main flex joint located on the frame side. The upper arm just moves with the main lower arm and thus don't need it's own flex joint? I did notice that on the RE long arm kit, the upper arms are the normal SR adjustable upper arms rather than SF adjustable arms.
Click to expand...
When a radius arm set-up flexes its trying to twist the axle at the mounts(axle side),if you use hard joints like hiems it will tear the mounts off.Using all rubber allows enough movement(forward-backwards).
 
Last edited:
I would go with currie JJ's, we've just ordered some for our shop and they're massive. My friends are using them on trial rigs that they drive 3 hours one way to the trails and back. Never an issue. Cost is way cheaper than RE, I'm not a big fan of that company anymore.
 
I run one single long lower and one RE-based radius arm. I run rubber at the axle end of the lowers, poly at the axle end of the upper, a small RE joint at the upper-lower connection on the radius arm, and large flex joints at the crossmember. The small flex joint and the poly bushing are to reduce front axle wrap that can come from running all rubber. If I had two radius arms I would run all rubber because of the binding.


mud1059 said:
I've read countless threads on long arms and 3 links. I just don't trust my engineering capabilities for a 3 link, so long arm it is. My question is this: I have a Rusty's crossmember I plan on using on my "trail only" rig. (From time to time it has to be driven home when a non-trailered rig breaks on the trail.) Which joints should I use? I've read Johnny's, Superflex, heims, stock rubbers, a combination between the four blah blah blah. The bottom line is the rig gets beat religiously, what will work out the best for me? I appreciate your help and apologize if I've missed this topic covered before.

Thanks again,
Paul
Click to expand...
 
I did mean radius arms. Also, I forgot to mention the skipping of the one upper as Phil stated.

No Eli, Josh likes his pitted poop-pipe, I need to get my own. :)

Thanks guys for your input!
 
I would get a Xmember system from a company, then build your arms off of that. A clayton would be nice, but it can be built easily if you got the tools and metal.
 
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